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ebpv is not working at all, sorta

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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 01:43 PM
  #1  
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From: Grantsville MD
ebpv is not working at all, sorta

i have a 2000 psd auto, when it gets cold, like 20 or colder, the ebpv will close for 6 or 7 mins. Then it will start opening and closeing constantly and it does not stop when I am driving. well it will stay open when it gets good and warm. I truck has 130,000 miles. it has no codes
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 01:47 PM
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I think that's not totally a bad thing. Isn't the ebpv used to help the engine warm up? If so then you need it to close for that long so that the engine will warm up. Diesels hate the cold more than gassers.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 01:53 PM
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well it would be all right but it opens and closes like 20 times a minute or so. That causes the truck to surge when I am driving, which is not right. I think it is closed well the engine is cold, but when you need the power it is supposed to open and stay there. I think?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 01:55 PM
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yeah the opening and closing is a bit disconcerning. Sorry I wasnt' thinking of that when I wrote first. I have to say that I'm not that familiar with them, perhaps somebody else will make up for my incompetence.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 01:56 PM
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thanks just the same
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 02:38 PM
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When the engine is cold and the valve is closed, does it open back up if you step hard on the throttle? If so then it's ok. It's design is to load the engine a little so that it warms up faster.
FWIW I completly disconnected mine, but I live in a mild climate (Seattle, WA) where freezing is rare, even in the winter. I hated the SSSSSSSSSSSSSS noise all the way to work.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 06:14 PM
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Found this on dieselmanns web site:

Lack of acceleration when cold; Limited RPM; Hissing noise under hood; Possible DTC's P0470-P0478:
Exhaust (back)Pressure Regulator valve/servo.
When the engine is cold--EOT less than 140 degrees--and the ambient temperature is less than 37 degrees, the PCM activates the EPR solenoid to divert oil pressure to the EPR sevro which closes the EPR valve at the turbo outlet. This causes exhaust backpressure to help the engine warm up more quickly. The PCM monitors the amount of backpressure through the Exhaust BackPressure sensor. On accel, the EPR is deactivated, but if the valve sticks, it will cause the above symptoms. You may or may not be able to duplicate the concern, since it normally only occurs on initial start-ups when the PCM activates the EPR for prove-out. If you are able to duplicate it, inspecting the position of the EPR linkage can confirm the problem (the servo linkage will be extended and the bellcrank tang will not be on its stop). To repair, replace the turbocharger pedistal.
A similar condition can occur if the EBP sensor tube plugs up with carbon, causing the PCM not to see an increase in exhaust back pressure resulting in the PCM not deactivating the EPR solenoid. Remove the tube and inspect for blockage. Clean as necessary.

end of info.

I underlined the interesting part to me, that maybe there's blockage or carbon build-up in the tube to the EBP sensor. I've read of people just removeing the EBP sensor and cleaning it. I think I'd disconnect the EBPV before replacing the turbo pedistal for this problem.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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my truck does the same thing when i start it is runs like it should with the ebpv working then it surges constantly but when i hit the brake it turns off is that normal? when im driving its working and when i hit the gas it shuts off
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 08:30 PM
  #9  
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From: North Carolina
Here's a little more info from Steve Baz' site:

EBP: Exhaust BackPressure sensor Feedback input; PCM uses this to monitor and control EPR operation; 5.0 volts in, 0.8-1.0 volts/14.7 psi KOEO or at idle, increases with engine RPM/load, decreases as altitude increases. PID: EBP (pressure), EBP V (volts)

EOT: Engine Oil Temperature sensor Strategy input; PCM uses this for determining glow plug on time, EPR actuation, idle speed, fuel delivery and injection timing and adjusts as temperature increases; 5.0 volts in, 4.37 volts@32°F, 1.37volts@176°F, .96volts@205°F. PID: EOT (degrees)

EPR: Exhaust backPressure Regulator, also EBP regulator Output; For quicker engine warm-up at cold temperatures. If the IAT is below 37°F (50°F some models) and the EOT is below 140°F (168° some models) the PCM sends a duty cycle signal to a solenoid which controls oil flow from the turbo pedestal. This causes a servo to close a valve at the turbo exhaust outlet. The PCM monitors the EBP input to determine if the EPR needs to be disabled to provide power for increased load, then reapplys the EPR as load demand decreases until EOT or IAT rises. PID: EPR (duty cycle), EBP (pressure

end of info.

As I understand it, The PCM will open the EBPV if it "sees" an increase in back pressure at the EBP sensor (it's measuring passenger side exhaust manifold pressure)or if the AIT (air intake temperatuer) or EOT warm up. In cold weather the oil is going to warm up first of course. Pressing the accelerator pedal will increase EBP because your adding more fuel which increases exhaust manifold pressure as the cyclinders get rid of that extra burned fuel. At some increased EBP point, the PCM will open the EBP valve. If the EBP returns below that point (you let off on the accelerator pedal) where the PCM opened the EBP valve, the PCM will close the valve until the the oil temp (or air temp) have increased. So it may cycle open and close while you drive until the oil is warm.

As a side note, the PCM cycles the EBP valve every start up as a test or proof. Also if you want to see it work and the engine oil is cold and air temperature is cold, put your fingers on the AIT (air intake temperature) sensor (the sensor by your air filter) while the engine is running. Your warm fingers will warm up the AIT sensor which the PCM will see and open the EBP valve. Let go and it should close after the AIT sensor cools off.

If you're having problems with it, I'd clean the EBP sensor, check the tube that feeds the sensor for blockages and possibly replace the EBP sensor. Or you can disconnect the EBP valve as Kwik suggested.

00250diesel, I'm not sure why your hitting the brake would turn the EBP valve off (open) unless it somehow increased the exhaust back pressure.

Whew, I need a beer after all this typing.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 09:32 PM
  #10  
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When I hit the brake, mine opens as well. Always has.

I read once where someone cleaned the ebp sensor and tube and picked up some mileage they had lost.

When you step on it, even if cold, the valve should open. Sometimes at the right speed, it opens and closes quiet often, say 30-40mph under light to no throttle.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 03:51 PM
  #11  
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well I think I am going to try cleaning that tube . only thing is is that i don't know where it is and how big of a project this is. I am not getting any code so I don't think the sensor is bad. I guess it will just come off the mnifold and go to the pedestal? I hope this will get me some milage to, i am working with 13 mpg right now.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 06:14 PM
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The EBP sensor is located on the top left portion of the engine as you look at the engine from the front of the truck. The sensor sits on top of a tube that goes down to the passenger side exhaust manifold. Here's a picture of it:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...55004578kuIZVc

Here is another web site. Go to "Engine Electrical" then select "Wiring Harness connectors, Front View". The EBP sensor is shown and the tube going down to the manifold is also shown. Goes behind the wiring harness for a bit of the drawing.

http://www.nav-international.com.br/...rStroke/hs.asp

I have to admit I've never had the sensor or tube off, because I've never had a problem with it. I'd be careful not to drop or loose anything down the tube. I'm also not sure about blowing the tube out in place, if you were thinking about doing that, because you'd be blowing whatever back into the exhaust manifold and it could potentially get into an exhaust valve, although the cyclinders are pushing exhaust air out. Of course, all that has to go through the exhaust side of your turbo too.

Give us any feedback if you tackle this because I'm sure there will be others wanting to check it or clean it. Myself included maybe someday. Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 06:57 PM
  #13  
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From: Grantsville MD
Well I think I will attemp it when it warms up a bit. I was just on the interstate and I noticed that at 70 mph I was running 25 psi of back pressure. now that was pulling a grade. even when I was on the level still it was around 22. I have a 4 in exhuast from the turbo back, are those number normal? They seem as if they are high to me.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 07:10 PM
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I see you have an Edge Evolution. Check out the "Those with Edge Evolution...Question" thread. Here's the link:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=429402

The Evoultion uses the EBP sensor which is measuring exhaust manifold pressure (pre-turbo) and not post turbo back pressure.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 10:34 PM
  #15  
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From: Grantsville MD
so what you are saying is that reading will not change no matter what position the ebpv is in?
 
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