ebpv is not working at all, sorta
FWIW I completly disconnected mine, but I live in a mild climate (Seattle, WA) where freezing is rare, even in the winter. I hated the SSSSSSSSSSSSSS noise all the way to work.
Lack of acceleration when cold; Limited RPM; Hissing noise under hood; Possible DTC's P0470-P0478:
Exhaust (back)Pressure Regulator valve/servo.
When the engine is cold--EOT less than 140 degrees--and the ambient temperature is less than 37 degrees, the PCM activates the EPR solenoid to divert oil pressure to the EPR sevro which closes the EPR valve at the turbo outlet. This causes exhaust backpressure to help the engine warm up more quickly. The PCM monitors the amount of backpressure through the Exhaust BackPressure sensor. On accel, the EPR is deactivated, but if the valve sticks, it will cause the above symptoms. You may or may not be able to duplicate the concern, since it normally only occurs on initial start-ups when the PCM activates the EPR for prove-out. If you are able to duplicate it, inspecting the position of the EPR linkage can confirm the problem (the servo linkage will be extended and the bellcrank tang will not be on its stop). To repair, replace the turbocharger pedistal.
A similar condition can occur if the EBP sensor tube plugs up with carbon, causing the PCM not to see an increase in exhaust back pressure resulting in the PCM not deactivating the EPR solenoid. Remove the tube and inspect for blockage. Clean as necessary.
end of info.
I underlined the interesting part to me, that maybe there's blockage or carbon build-up in the tube to the EBP sensor. I've read of people just removeing the EBP sensor and cleaning it. I think I'd disconnect the EBPV before replacing the turbo pedistal for this problem.
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EBP: Exhaust BackPressure sensor Feedback input; PCM uses this to monitor and control EPR operation; 5.0 volts in, 0.8-1.0 volts/14.7 psi KOEO or at idle, increases with engine RPM/load, decreases as altitude increases. PID: EBP (pressure), EBP V (volts)
EOT: Engine Oil Temperature sensor Strategy input; PCM uses this for determining glow plug on time, EPR actuation, idle speed, fuel delivery and injection timing and adjusts as temperature increases; 5.0 volts in, 4.37 volts@32°F, 1.37volts@176°F, .96volts@205°F. PID: EOT (degrees)
EPR: Exhaust backPressure Regulator, also EBP regulator Output; For quicker engine warm-up at cold temperatures. If the IAT is below 37°F (50°F some models) and the EOT is below 140°F (168° some models) the PCM sends a duty cycle signal to a solenoid which controls oil flow from the turbo pedestal. This causes a servo to close a valve at the turbo exhaust outlet. The PCM monitors the EBP input to determine if the EPR needs to be disabled to provide power for increased load, then reapplys the EPR as load demand decreases until EOT or IAT rises. PID: EPR (duty cycle), EBP (pressure
end of info.
As I understand it, The PCM will open the EBPV if it "sees" an increase in back pressure at the EBP sensor (it's measuring passenger side exhaust manifold pressure)or if the AIT (air intake temperatuer) or EOT warm up. In cold weather the oil is going to warm up first of course. Pressing the accelerator pedal will increase EBP because your adding more fuel which increases exhaust manifold pressure as the cyclinders get rid of that extra burned fuel. At some increased EBP point, the PCM will open the EBP valve. If the EBP returns below that point (you let off on the accelerator pedal) where the PCM opened the EBP valve, the PCM will close the valve until the the oil temp (or air temp) have increased. So it may cycle open and close while you drive until the oil is warm.
As a side note, the PCM cycles the EBP valve every start up as a test or proof. Also if you want to see it work and the engine oil is cold and air temperature is cold, put your fingers on the AIT (air intake temperature) sensor (the sensor by your air filter) while the engine is running. Your warm fingers will warm up the AIT sensor which the PCM will see and open the EBP valve. Let go and it should close after the AIT sensor cools off.
If you're having problems with it, I'd clean the EBP sensor, check the tube that feeds the sensor for blockages and possibly replace the EBP sensor. Or you can disconnect the EBP valve as Kwik suggested.
00250diesel, I'm not sure why your hitting the brake would turn the EBP valve off (open) unless it somehow increased the exhaust back pressure.
Whew, I need a beer after all this typing.
I read once where someone cleaned the ebp sensor and tube and picked up some mileage they had lost.
When you step on it, even if cold, the valve should open. Sometimes at the right speed, it opens and closes quiet often, say 30-40mph under light to no throttle.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...55004578kuIZVc
Here is another web site. Go to "Engine Electrical" then select "Wiring Harness connectors, Front View". The EBP sensor is shown and the tube going down to the manifold is also shown. Goes behind the wiring harness for a bit of the drawing.
http://www.nav-international.com.br/...rStroke/hs.asp
I have to admit I've never had the sensor or tube off, because I've never had a problem with it. I'd be careful not to drop or loose anything down the tube. I'm also not sure about blowing the tube out in place, if you were thinking about doing that, because you'd be blowing whatever back into the exhaust manifold and it could potentially get into an exhaust valve, although the cyclinders are pushing exhaust air out. Of course, all that has to go through the exhaust side of your turbo too.
Give us any feedback if you tackle this because I'm sure there will be others wanting to check it or clean it. Myself included maybe someday. Good luck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=429402
The Evoultion uses the EBP sensor which is measuring exhaust manifold pressure (pre-turbo) and not post turbo back pressure.






