Just spent about an hour searching and reading, and have seen tons of conflicting information on the tensioner pulley bolt "threadness".

The bolt that goes through the shaft of the tensioner pulley (not the bolt that mounts the whole tensioner assembly) -- is it a right hand (normal) or a left hand (CW to loosen) thread?

While I'm here, same question for the idler pulley bolt? (which at first blush looks like a torx or hex head bolt, haven't looked at it closely yet).

Thanks!

Roak

 

I'll answer half my question: The tensioner pulley bolt is a left hand thread on the '93 F150 5.8L "H" engine (Windsor).

How about it, can anyone tell me if the idler pully bolt is left hand as well?

Roak

Ps. The new metal tensioner pully claims to last 10 times longer than the original plastic one. I'm looking forward to its 2.7 million miles of service

 

2.7 million miles, that's funny.

 

2.7 million miles or 120 years!!!!

 

Per my official 1992 Ford Factory Service Manual:"5.0,5.8,7.5 (tensioner) idler pulley retention bolt have a left hand thread,requiring a clockwise motion to loosen." Also:"Excessive rearward force on the bolt during removal may over-stress and crack the tensioner arm."

When replacing the pulley bolt--torque to 55-65 foot pounds.Use 16mm wench.

Note--this left hand thread refers to the 16 mm bolt that the pulley rotates around--not the 19mm bolt that holds the tensioner assembly to the alternator bracket.The 19mm tensioner bolt was a right hand thread on my 92 F150 and it should be torqued to 51-87 foot pounds--per my FSM.

Who makes the claim that the metal pulley will last 10 times longer than the original plastic pulley??

 

For consistency (NOT!) the idler pulley bolt (torx head) has a right hand thread. Decided to replace that as well since it probably wasn't long for this world since the tensioner pulley died.
I forgot whose page had that marketing tidbit, autozone or something...

The plastic ones lasted 270,000 miles (I think I got an engine from heaven) If the metal ones last just as long, I'll be a happy camper

Roak

 

the bearing in the steel pulleys still go dry i pressed my old one out and took it to a bearing shop and got a new one pressed it in the replacement from the auto part store one was plastic and the other pully (idler) was dealer only

 

The idler and tensioner pulley are the same part -- NAPA NBH38006 (metal pulley). The part costs about $20. Given the tensioner pulley gave up the ghost, I figured the idler wasn't long for this world, so I went ahead and replaced it for another $20.

Can't think of many other one-bolt car repairs, can anyone?

Roak

 

the torx idler pulling is rh thread. i just replaced mine today

 

My belt was squealing a little after I change to the pullies that are supposed to give you a little more power.I bought a smaller belt and a new plastic idler pully.When I put the new idler pully on it wouldnt turn at all.So I put the old one back on w/the new belt and it works great now.It must have came from China

 

tension pulley is left handed tread
iddle pulley is right handed thread

i just finished changing mine