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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 01:03 PM
  #1  
tmehrkam's Avatar
tmehrkam
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Cross Bolt Mains

I was servicing my V10 the otherday. I did an oil change and a antifreeze change. I had a kid helping me. I told him to remove the plugs and drain the
coolent from the block.

He asked me why there was oil on the drain plug. I crawled under and he had pulled one of the side bolts to the cross bolted mains.

What would be the recommended procedure to fix this. I do not think the dowel pin dropped. There was no noise. The bolt went back in with no interferance and I retorqued it. I did not do the 90 degree second phase torque.

Do you think I need to get another bolt and torque it as in the manual or is it just fine as it is. I torqued it to 30 lb
 
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 01:08 PM
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you will be fine. just point it out to him next time.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 01:12 PM
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Thank you.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 02:26 PM
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I'd get a BRAND NEW bolt and make sure it's torqued correctly.

It might be OK, but with these things going up to 200K without problems, why risk it all for just one stupid bolt?

Thing is, these bolts are torque-to-yield, and get a stretch to them. If you re-use them, you don't get the proper stretch, and if anything moves slightly, there won't be enough elasticity left in the bolt to keep bad things from happening.

I'd make sure it's a new bolt... but that's just me.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by krewat
I'd get a BRAND NEW bolt and make sure it's torqued correctly.

It might be OK, but with these things going up to 200K without problems, why risk it all for just one stupid bolt?

Thing is, these bolts are torque-to-yield, and get a stretch to them. If you re-use them, you don't get the proper stretch, and if anything moves slightly, there won't be enough elasticity left in the bolt to keep bad things from happening.

I'd make sure it's a new bolt... but that's just me.
I'd get a brand new bolt and torque it correctly !! Those are 'torque to yield' fasteners, NOT re-usable. Hey for a couple bucks, be sure. Especially a main cap bolt.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 08:47 PM
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as a old dealer tech. i have to back the guys up. get a new bolt and do it correctly.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 06:28 AM
  #7  
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Only 200,000. I already have over half of that!.

I am hoping for at least 300,000.

I will look into getting a new bolt. I am a little concerned about the dowel pin falling out. Hopefuly it is held in tight by the origional tourqing.

This is the first engine I have owned that was crossed bolted. What is the thinking behind that. I have worked on 454, 460, 390 and 360 engines that only had two bolts per main.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 12:42 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by tmehrkam
Only 200,000. I already have over half of that!.

I am hoping for at least 300,000.

I will look into getting a new bolt. I am a little concerned about the dowel pin falling out. Hopefuly it is held in tight by the origional tourqing.

This is the first engine I have owned that was crossed bolted. What is the thinking behind that. I have worked on 454, 460, 390 and 360 engines that only had two bolts per main.
cross-bolting really stiffens up the bottom end. Older hot rodded motors either had 4 bolt mains (the best) or you had to install a girdle to keep the whole bottom end of the block from twisting with the crank spinning alot of rpms. Cross-bolting is like a 4 bolt main, but better in that it ties the block together not only from the bottom, but from the sides too. You can have a lighter block, that has a stiffer bottom end, when the block flexes the main bearings can pinch the crank, or worse.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 04:04 PM
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tmehrkan a dumb question

You said you asked a kid helping you to pull the block plug and drain the coolant, and after checking, you found he had pulled one of the side bolts to the cross bolted mains.

My question is didn't he have to drop the oil pan to get to a main bearing cap bolt? Or am I misunderstanding what 'cap' bolt you are refering to.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 04:07 PM
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the bolts are on the outside of the engine block.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 04:16 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 4wd
My question is didn't he have to drop the oil pan to get to a main bearing cap bolt? Or am I misunderstanding what 'cap' bolt you are refering to.
The bolt they are talking about goes through the block, through a dowel, and into the side of the main cap. With a deep-skirt block, crossbolting is the way to make a rock-solid bottom end.

Maybe that's why these things last so long ...
 
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 05:50 PM
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Thumbs up ok, ty for the info

I just didn't know.

FTE is a great place to get your questions answered.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 11:05 PM
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The cross bolted main caps prevent a phenomenon called main cap walk. It is characteristic of many high powered 2 bolt main engines. Especially engines with relatively long strokes. The main caps wobble back and forth under high load. When I say wobble, it is a very small movement, but it can wreak havoc to your bottom end. It's a great thing that ford included this in the triton v10. This is a very strong attribute to this engine. Now if they could only have put some decent connecting rods in.
 

Last edited by SuperdutyRob; Nov 17, 2005 at 11:14 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 05:22 AM
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5.4 steel race rods just might work.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by captchas
5.4 steel race rods just might work.
Is the stroke the same ? Charlie ,I never chkd

Rich
 
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