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Hooking up an amplifier..

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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 06:02 PM
  #16  
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Yes, you posted that already. I don't see anything about the boxes in there, unless I missed something. Like i said, i've decided to focus on the head unit and speakers first, and was just curious about the sub boxes for the future.

thanks.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 06:29 PM
  #17  
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Yeah, and I said the boxes should be combined and how to find the volume. www. diysubwoofers .com is a great site if you are interested, as is that beac site or whatever it is, somebody has the link (I don't, sorry).

What HU did ya get, capt.? The 6"x8"s are good speakers, I got 4-way 6"x8"s all around my Ranger and they sound great, 240W max is just wonderful in my opinion, getting ready to amp them. Rears are already amped, doors will be soon. You'll be pleased with them, I can honestly tell you that.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 06:57 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by captain p4
Yes, you posted that already. I don't see anything about the boxes in there, unless I missed something. Like i said, i've decided to focus on the head unit and speakers first, and was just curious about the sub boxes for the future.

thanks.
That's all Matt does is posts that link. There's nothing about your box in there.

I'll be home Tuesday morning and I'll be able to get the formula for the best enclosure for your subs. There is a magical formula that should be followed with a 10% margin either way.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 07:04 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RomerB2
That's all Matt does is posts that link. There's nothing about your box in there.

I'll be home Tuesday morning and I'll be able to get the formula for the best enclosure for your subs. There is a magical formula that should be followed with a 10% margin either way.
Cool, thanks.

Ranger: I was referring to fordboy's post, sorry for that, i should've quouted him. Thanks for your info. Again, i'm not sure which model, but it was 150.00 dollars and is compatible with HD radio and is 45 or 50 watt x 4 channels.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 07:25 PM
  #20  
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Ok, i forgot about this until now. When installing one of the subs the screwdriver slipped off and went through the foamy stuff on the side..

is it done?

there is a pic in my gallery if it doesn't show up.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 07:38 PM
  #21  
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When you buy the subs new, they usually come with the air space needed for that sub, I know that you didn't get them new but if you know what kinda sub it is and ask the manufacter they should be able to tell you how much air space you will need for that sub. You can always work with more than needed air space, so you can always make it bigger and take away air space if needed. If it has too much air space the sub will make a slapping nosie, and you will end up blowing the sub. Not enough air space and you will not get the full bass and sound out of the subs, you could always add more bass to the subs to get that extra bass.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 07:46 PM
  #22  
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Yea thats not good the foam is a excursion, it determines the watted of the sub and how far the sub will move in and out, usually air space too. You could try to glue it up and hope for the best, but it may still affect the sound of the sub, you will just have to try and see how it works.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 07:58 PM
  #23  
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Damn. I don't want to spend a bunch of money on amps and stuff and then the sub not work.. I'll have to find someone that will let me hook it up.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 09:38 AM
  #24  
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the sub will still work, just not as good as it should... any good sub shop can fix it (i know almost all jl audio sellers repair speakers).

also, if u want an easy way to tell what sub box to get, look up your subs on crutchfield or another site and they will tell you the recommended box by the manufacturer

Matt
 
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 08:50 PM
  #25  
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Update: pulled the sub out, found the model number and this is what i came up with on google:




Kenwood KFC-W3005 Key Features



  • Frequency Response: 25Hz - 800Hz
  • Impedance: 4 ohms
  • One-Piece Cone Design
  • Pearl Mica Injection-Molded Polypropylene Cone: 12" Tornado-Type
  • Power Handling: 700 Watts
  • Bumped Yoke
  • Extended Pole Piece: Vented
  • Frequency Response: 25Hz - 800Hz
  • Impedance: 4 ohms
  • Magnet Weight: 42.3 oz
  • One-Piece Cone Design
  • Sensitivity: 93dB
  • Speaker Connectors: Gold-Plated, 2-Way SB-Type
  • Urethane Surround
  • Vented Voice Coil: 2-Layer
Kenwood KFC-W3005 THIELE-SMALL Parameters

  • DC Resistance (Re): 3.34 ohms
  • Electrical Q Factor (Qes): 0.70
  • Force Factor (Bl): 9.8Tm
  • Mechanical Q Factor (Qms): 10.45
  • Moving Mass (Mms): 3.53 oz
  • Peak Excursion (Xmax): 9mm
  • Resonant Frequency (Fs): 32Hz
  • Total Q Factor (Qts): 0.66
  • Voice Coil Diameter (d): 2-9/16"
  • Volume Acoustic Compliance (Vas): 2.925 cu. ft./82.84 liters
Is the Volume Acoustic Compliance the size my box needs to be?

What range of quality do these subs fall in?


thanks.


edit: Found it on another website: sealed box volume 1.5 cubic feet
ported box volume 1.5 cubic feet


I just double it for two subs, correct?
 

Last edited by captain p4; Nov 26, 2005 at 08:56 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 10:56 PM
  #26  
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What website did you find that on? And yes the Acoustic Compliance is what you look for on a sealed box. There isn't a "one size fits all" box, I don't care who you talk to. Every speaker is different. But the volume of the box would be doubled overall for your box. But make sure that it's not all open air in the box, unless you're running a mono-channel amp and the exact same subs.
 

Last edited by RomerB2; Nov 26, 2005 at 10:59 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 11:12 PM
  #27  
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From doing my own calculations, I think you need 1.31 ft^3 for a sealed enclosure. The "optimum" dimensions are going to be 13.31" x 7.99" x 21.30", feel free to round as long as you don't round more than 10% off any of those dimensions. This will give you the best possible sound.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 01:20 AM
  #28  
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Good website he found. I'm assuming the box Romer speaks of is for one sub, so you'll need to multiply it by two. In theory therefore, the box could be 42.60"L x 13.31"W x 8"H and should work well. Space considerations on the other hand, that is a big box to hide.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 03:26 PM
  #29  
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I'm just saying that's optimum size, it can be changed, and often is. But just try to stay around 1.3 (2.6) ft^3 for your sub(s).
 
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Old Dec 3, 2005 | 07:12 PM
  #30  
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www(dot) topedgeonline (dot) com/detail.aspx?ID=7368

Found a custom box that claims 1.21 cu ft per sub 12 inch downfiring. and 5/8 MDF all for 90 dollars. +shipping. Less than 10% off on overall size. what do you think?

Also, what is the actual size on a 12inch sub hole? is it standard?
 

Last edited by captain p4; Dec 3, 2005 at 07:16 PM.
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