before the wicked wheel, i was only registering 10-12psi on level 4 with WOT, and then i added the wicked wheel and tightened up my boots from the 5-way to the intake manifolds, and now i can get the boost relief valve to work. now i think i can get to about 27 psi...

 

i would think that a rear diff guage would be a great alt to a boost guage. but then again you could always get a 4podder and keep the boost if yout towing. hmmm sounds like something i need to do.

 

I'm not sure a boost gauge is necessary for a stock engine, but I've yet to see a modified turbocharged engine without a boost gauge.

 

but would it be a good idea to have boost guage on a stocker that tows?

 

it wouldnt hurt, just to diagnose air flow problems and fuel problems of the sort. a stock truck will rarely get to 17 psi, which is well within the limits of the turbo.

 

wow wait a minute.........

i thought having a boost gauge gave you 40 extra hp???

i got one becaue i have a stick and my pyro needed a friend. i think 1 gauge on the "A" pillar would look well not so cool.

the more gauges the better.... i think.
i've seen guys that have 7 or 8.

how about a cps gauge (indicates if its about to go,randomly go, or just dead in the water)

 

i have found a unique use for this gauge that i never anticipated when i bought it... when i am towing on the highway... as i approach a large or long incline in the road... i slowly push down on the accelorator and watch as the boost comes up... depending on the speed i am traveling, i can tell just how far i can step on the accellorator WITHOUT causing my tranny to downshift out of overdrive... this is very helpful because it allows me to build the max amount of boost just before i start to climb a hill while still remaining in overdrive... this gives my truck the best chance of pulling that hill while remaining in overdrive which helps me keep the egts down in most cases... plus you save a little fuel if you don't shift down... also... when my truck shifts out of overdrive it also unlocks the torque converter and then locks it back up.... i think this contributes alot to increased tranny temps... so if you can avoid making that shift, you avoid making that heat.... anyway... the boost gauge really helps me know where to put that pedal for best hill climbing performance in overdrive...

 

How do you convert the stock oil pressure gauge???

 

did you get the boot upgrade kit or just tighten the clamps on the boots you already had? supposedly the stock boots are not good for too much pressure and get broken down by the oil from the ccv? I don't want to buy the new boots if all I have to do is tighten down the ones I already have. thanks.

 

From Baz's site By The Way this is only for 95 & 96 other years I dont know the technique

To make your oil pressure gauge show real pressure, follow these steps: remove gauge cluster by prying out horizontal trim strips and removing the TX20 screws underneath, pull forward on trim panel and disconnect tank switch and warning lamp module. Remove the 4 TX20 screws at the corners of gauge unit and disconnect (by pinching on both ends) the two large connectors and also the small speedometer connector. Gauge has to be turned 90 degrees to undo connectors and to remove it, watch out so as to not scratch face of gauge set. Lay gauge unit on a flat surface gauges down and locate the 20 ohm resistor (it's marked). Solder a jumper wire across the resistor using a pencil solder iron so as to not melt your circuit film. Reinstall cluster and all trim. Remove the top engine cover assembly by undoing the three 13 mm cap nuts. The oil pressure switch is on the front aluminum housing under the removed cover and has a single slide-on wire connector. Remove this switch. Fit an oil pressure sender (sender from a 1980 F150 with 400 cu. in. engine is correct) using two short 1/4 NPT nipples, one 1/4 NPT 90 elbow, and one 1/4 NPT female connector. Fit one nipple into the hole, screw on elbow, screw in the other nipple, and screw on the connector. Orient fitting so that it points at the driver's seat so as to allow clearance for sender to not interfere with fuel system sensor that is immediately behind hole where fittings are installed. Screw in sender and plug on wire. Use Teflon tape or other pipe sealant at all threads. Re-install your top cover. Oil pressure gauge seems to read 0-90 psi according to my testing. Strangely enough, when engine is hot and cruising the gauge reads where it did with the "liar" setup, but it does read higher cold and lower idling.