My truck has two coolant sensors, one for the cluster, and one from the EEC. The one for the cluster (which I replaced with a digital cluster, see other thread) is actually tied to the EEC for a reference voltage, which I seperated so the digital cluster, which provides it's own reference voltage, is happy.

Unfortunately, the EEC is now happy. Dispite the wiring diagram I have not mentioning any of this, it's obvious to me that both temp sensors are monitored by the EEC. Why? Check engine light, and error codes which I blinked out of the EEC last night. So I disconnected the cluster from the sending unit, and put the wiring back, and the EEC is happy as can be.

So I've ran new wires to add a third temp sensor, not a big deal, except I have no obvious place to put it. On the side of the manifold, I simply swapped wires for testing. The EEC had a sending unit "dangling" above the intake, and the cluster attached to the sending unit sticking into the water jacket. The temp gauge moves very slightly.

Maybe my thermostat died, again?

Anyway, the question I'd like to ask, is would I get reasonable readings by threading a "T" connector into the intake, and threading the two sending units into the "T"?

I'm assuming not, because I'd need the coolant to flow past, and the "T" would probably be full of air most of the time and the coolant wouldn't be flowing past it.

Another option is to make a metal adaptor with a bung, hack the upper radiator hose into two pieces, and insert the metal adaptor. But that's more work than threading a "T" fitting.

What do you guys think...

 

What if you put the Tee part with the temp sensor in it facing down so air cannot be trapped

5ass

 

I agree that you will not get a 100% reading at the "T", but I dont think it would be too far off. Keep the "T" as short as posible, and keep an eye on the gauge to see how it acts.

Bleeding the air out of the "T" should get the fluid up to the sensors.

Please let us know what you come up with.

Bob

 

I bought the "T" and a short 1" extension, put both sensors in the "T", and screwed it in tight, and neither sensor gave me a reading other than a "slight" movement once the fittings itself got really hot through convection. So I took it off, drilled and tapped a hole, and put in a screw-in shrader valve to bleed the air. I got slightly better results, but nothing useful enough. Out of 10 bars, instead of lighting 1 bar, I got 2 bars lit when the engine was piping hot (20 miles of errands). So I put things back the way it was for now.

While it was dark, I noticed on the ribbed plastic side tanks there seems to be a flat, non-ribbed spot on each tank. I'll look at it tomorrow, but I'm thinking of boring a 3/8" NPT hole in that spot and with a little RTV, putting the sensor there. I can build the area up if I have to.

Another option is to get a short section of steel or brass tubing, roll the edges to make a lip, and cut the upper radiator hose and braze on a threaded bung for the sensor. But that's more work than drilling a hole in a plastic radiator tank. THough, draining it and putting the coolant somewhere is a PITA too.

Hmmmmmmm.

 

I realy thought it would be better than that.
Dosnt sound like fun any more. I guse the rad. tank would be the next thing to do.

Those flat spots might be for electric fan sensors, You might find a rad. with the bung already there. (Just thinking out loud)

Bob

 

Yeah, the big things are fun. The little things get tedious after a while. I had high hopes too.

I hauled out my worklight and took a closer look, it's probably not thick enough to do it correctly. I may just stick it into the radiator hose on a brass splice.

Give me a chance to use my bead roller. Now, where did I put that?

 

Keep in mind that the gauge sender needs a solid ground to function properly. That is, if it is a one wire sender.

 

it's a two-wire... just need a place to stick it

 

Excellent! Just didn't want you to have a hole in the radiator and have it not work

 

Much appreciated

I think I'm going to pass on making a hole in the radiator. Aside from the coolant tank feeling "thin" and "brittle", I'd also have to drain all the coolant and put it somewhere temporarily. All my spare buckets have coolant in them now, as I can't get rid of it and I'm not into dumping it anywhere Grrrrrrrr.

Anyway, hacking the upper hose would be the least amount of work I imagine. I have some thin-wall brass tubing that looks (in the dark at least) to be the right size, and brazing on a bung can't be that hard. I have a brass bung here too that the sensor fits into Hmmmmmm.

See, if I had the 500cid engine in already, it has four threaded bungs that are in coolant passages, but it's not in the truck so........... LMAO

I'd braze the bung onto the water neck except taking that out is a real pain in the ***. It's so cluttered there.

 

Autometer sells exactly what you are wanting to make. I think if they sell one, that location would be alright to do what you want it to do. Sounds like it will be pretty easy to make.

 

Great find EPNC....

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accesso...st.aspx?pid=15

I shall see if I can find pricing locally, and if not, I'll make one. Buying it too convienent! Thanks~