FE intake manifold I.D. and port matching with epoxy
#1
FE intake manifold I.D. and port matching with epoxy
I have a Ford OEM aluminum intake manifold with ports that match the 428 cj heads ( 2.25 inch tall). My C7AE-A heads have the short 1.9-2.0 inch ports. Has anyone out there filled in the bottoms of the intake manifold runners with epoxy thats 1/4 inch deep and had good luck with the epoxy staying in place? I'm thinking it would could be real ugly to suck a big chunk 'O epoxy into the cylinder.
The aluminum intake casting number starts with C6AE-9. The runner shape is just like the C8OE cobra jet cast iron intake with the large taper in the runners, and the sharp corner on the runner to #4 cylinder. The carb base is tilted forward sort of steeply like the 428 PI intakes I've seen. Do you think this is a PI intake, OR....
If the epoxy is not a good idea, is there much call in the forum classified ads for aluminum intakes to match the tall 428 port heads?
The aluminum intake casting number starts with C6AE-9. The runner shape is just like the C8OE cobra jet cast iron intake with the large taper in the runners, and the sharp corner on the runner to #4 cylinder. The carb base is tilted forward sort of steeply like the 428 PI intakes I've seen. Do you think this is a PI intake, OR....
If the epoxy is not a good idea, is there much call in the forum classified ads for aluminum intakes to match the tall 428 port heads?
#2
I have a set of those heads on my 390. C7AE-A. Take a look in my gallery at how I modified them. I used the Performer RPM manifold, which also has the bigger ports. I do find the epoxy idea somewhat interesting, but I think it's safer to modify your heads. Basically, use a gasket for a template, and match the intake port opening. Be sure to place the gasket on the intake manifold and mark the extent of the port so you know how far to go, in case the gasket holes are bigger than the intake manifold ports.
I do find the epoxy idea in the intake somewhat interesting, but I'd be curious to see if gasoline eats it.
I do find the epoxy idea in the intake somewhat interesting, but I'd be curious to see if gasoline eats it.
#6
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#8
That little curve is probably beneficial. Note that the headers dont angle out at the same angle as most of the exhaust port, they go straight away from the head! That lip there kind of points it toward the header inlet. If anything, I'd try to smooth it up and maybe modify the opposite wall to exit more straight.
#9
i see, go for the 'bounce' theory off that lip back into the primary tube... i'm gonna play a little more with this set when i get em off that old engine block.. there's a new guy around here that has an engine dyno and flowbench, wonder what it'd run me to see how how big a difference it makes playing around with the exhaust port in different configurations.... as long as i dont screw up on a port and go backwards!! LOL that'd be my luck....
#11
Join Date: Dec 2003
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The Porter's epoxy will work great for building up the floor in the intake....and its not effected by gas.... And I dont know of an epoxy made that will hold up under High temps..Including JB weld and other's..Dont ask me how I know !! I just do! LOL..
And I cant remember If it was this thread or not..Talking about welding up an Iron Exhaust Port?? I have never had a weld stick for any length of time... Maybe a couple thousand miles on a street Motor..and 40 or 50 passes on a race motor!! JMO!!
Russ
And I cant remember If it was this thread or not..Talking about welding up an Iron Exhaust Port?? I have never had a weld stick for any length of time... Maybe a couple thousand miles on a street Motor..and 40 or 50 passes on a race motor!! JMO!!
Russ
#12
It was another post, but I had sugested it. There are a few people who can weld on cast iron. If you have the tallent, it would be easy enough to build up that area.
The secret is getting plenty of heat penitration, then getting the fill metal to flow in a wide area, so that you can't see a true defined edge. Before it has a chance to cool too much, make a few more passes over the top to build it up, less heat, more metal. It will never be as hard or as strong as the cast head, but it's in a no impact area, and won't encounter any stress.
The same thing can be done with the intake, and is even easier if it's aluminum.
The secret is getting plenty of heat penitration, then getting the fill metal to flow in a wide area, so that you can't see a true defined edge. Before it has a chance to cool too much, make a few more passes over the top to build it up, less heat, more metal. It will never be as hard or as strong as the cast head, but it's in a no impact area, and won't encounter any stress.
The same thing can be done with the intake, and is even easier if it's aluminum.
#13
A guy here in town uses "A-B Putty". He builds his own intakes (has his own blocks cast for that matter) and uses the putty to adjust the flow. He has had good luck with the putty, gas dosent affect it. I used it on some Go-kart carb's we ran on a Jr. restricted engine for a while and the methanol didn't affect it either. You might give him a call at Sonny's Automotive, in Lynchbugr Va. He builds a lot of Truck Pull engines.
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