Help, Fuel Leak
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Help, Fuel Leak
Let me first say that this is the best place for help and knowledge with our trucks. I have been reading since I bought my truck used a year ago and wow is the information great here.
I replaced my fuel filter for the second time yesterday and have a small leak today. I have double checked the yellow drain valve and it is sitting in the correct position. My leak is very small, about 1 drip every minute or so with the engine idling --- no way to check while driving. I can tell it is dripping while driving because of the new fuel spots on the chassis when I park.
My question more specifically would be, is there anything that I can do other than replacing the O rings? Could I have gotten any dirt from the top of the filter cover into the fuel bowl and it is keeping the valve from closing all the way?
Once again the knowledge and help here is great.....I love this place. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I replaced my fuel filter for the second time yesterday and have a small leak today. I have double checked the yellow drain valve and it is sitting in the correct position. My leak is very small, about 1 drip every minute or so with the engine idling --- no way to check while driving. I can tell it is dripping while driving because of the new fuel spots on the chassis when I park.
My question more specifically would be, is there anything that I can do other than replacing the O rings? Could I have gotten any dirt from the top of the filter cover into the fuel bowl and it is keeping the valve from closing all the way?
Once again the knowledge and help here is great.....I love this place. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,821
Likes: 19
From: South Dakota
Been there done that.
Ended up replacing the valve.
The valve on the back of the fuel bowl has o-rings that must be bought as a whole assembly (i.e. the whole valve).
Only 4 torqx bolts hold it on to the fuel bowl. The valve is a real pita to remove with the fuel bowl still on the motor. Very slow going with out the proper tools.
The valve assembly will set you back roughly $50 at your local dealer.
Ended up replacing the valve.
The valve on the back of the fuel bowl has o-rings that must be bought as a whole assembly (i.e. the whole valve).
Only 4 torqx bolts hold it on to the fuel bowl. The valve is a real pita to remove with the fuel bowl still on the motor. Very slow going with out the proper tools.
The valve assembly will set you back roughly $50 at your local dealer.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,821
Likes: 19
From: South Dakota
Here's pictures from a brand new fuel bowl assembly off of Ebay that I paid $20 for. Too bad I had already paid the $50 for the valve.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,821
Likes: 19
From: South Dakota
Wouldn't have mattered, the orings were bonded to the valve on both the old and new valves. At least they were in my case.
If those orings are just run of the mill rubber rings, I would seriously doubt how long they would last due to the composition of the rubber.
If those orings are just run of the mill rubber rings, I would seriously doubt how long they would last due to the composition of the rubber.