I have had a non-working fuel gauge for a number of years now. Ford people tell me there is no fuse in the circuitry which is hard to believe. I intend to check for loose/bad connections before commiting to a tank drop.

Anyone with suggestions on how to approach this problem is welcome to spell it out to me.

Thanks in advance.

 

I would start by checking the grounds behind the kick panel on the passenger side. The screws should be green or grey/silver in color and there should be two of them close together. With the battery negative cable disconected, remove the ground screws and make sure there is good contact, scrapping the paint off and removing any corrosion. Reinstall ground screws and negative battery cable and recheck gauge operation.

If this doesnt fix it, then you need to use a digital OHM meter to check and see if there is an ohm reading getting to the gauge. Here are the Ford Specs.

Fuel Gauge Resistance

With the sending unit float arm in the empty stop position, resistance should be 15 ohms (below E). With the sending unit float arm in the full stop position, resistance should be 160 ohms (above F). The fuel gauge should read empty at 22.5 ohms and full at 145 ohms.

If you have resisters of this amount you can check the gauge by disconnecting the harness and shorting the wiring to the gauge with a correct ohm resister then checking the reading. You can also check the sender with a digital multimeter and see what your reading is. If it is with in spec, then you either need a new fuel gauge or a antislosh module on the back of the cluster. The anti-slosh module usually effects the oil gauge also. If it is out of spec, then you need and new sender. You may not need the sender assemble as there is a float that I have seen many times that gets a pin hole in it causing it to read empty because it is no longer floating. I believe this float is available at Ford and maybe available at other sources also.

 

Thanks for the response. Tell me what a kick panel is.

 

the plastic trim panel under the dash in front of the door. it will be under and to the right of the glove box where you can kick the side of the trim when you are sitting in the passenger seat.

 

It is usually caused by the fuel float filling up with gas and sinking to the bottom. It is a $5 part at the local ford dealer. i've had to replace mine twice. Say something before you drop the tank and i'll give you some tips that should make it go easier.

Chris

 

ckrichard

About how long of a job is replacing the sending unit? Mine has been reading empty for a long time now. If it isn't too bad, I might do it. Thanks.

 

It goes quick if you have a hoist, but if you are doing it on the ground it'll take at least a couple of hours and that is if your tank is almost empty which I highly suggest!

 

ckrichard,

Your welcomed comment would suggest that the float can be replaced without a tank drop. True?

 

nope, you have to drop the tank to get to any of the sender/pump parts, sorry.

 

Chris, I decided that a tank drop will be necessary and I will take you up on those TIPS you promised. Thanks

Bill Kean

 

Sorry i've been out for the past couple of days. Long story dont ask!

Get the gas tank fairly empty, i keep good notes on milage so i knew when i was EMPTY.

1. get a fuel line disconnect tool.
2. remove the spare tire.
3. Remove the fuel tank skid plate and shield. Unless you have two people helping you. Use a jack to support the skid plate, remove all the bolts, then let it down and roll it out.
4. Unplug the sending unit, and loosen the fuel filler hose, and the vent hose. These are on the back side of the tank are are accesed by where the spare tire goes.
5. Support the fuel tank with a jack.
6. Remove the two straps holding the tank.
7. Let the jack down as far as you can without pulling on the fuel lines.
8. If you can disconnect the fuel lines, you dont have to but it is much easier. Then roll the tank out.

If you didnt disconnect the fuel lines just do the following step under the Explorer. Just get the tank as low as you can.

9. Clean around the sending unit so you dont get any trash in the fuel tank.
10. Remove the lock ring with a screwdriver and a rubber hammer.
11. Pull the sending unit out of the tank, it will take some wiggling to get out but it will come out.
12. Replace the float.
13. Reverse the process and your done.

The last time i replaced the float, it took me 5 hours from tools out to clean hands, that includes lunch. But i spent 1 hours trying to figure out how to disconnect the fuel lines, then realized i could leave them attached, Plus i cleaned every thing like the skid plate and spare tire real well. I i did it again i could probility do it in 2 to 2-1/2 hours.

The best hints i can give you are to remove the spare tire, use the jack as much as you can to support stuff, and you don't have to disconnect the fuel lines.

Chris

 

You know I have to now - what kept you out of town for a few days CKR ?