Thrust Bearing?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Originally Posted by Finally
I found out something interesting. The early '99 Superduty wheel bearing hub must be different than the late '99+ Superduties. Autozone has the assembly for $142 for a '99 Superduty built prior to March 1999. Lucky for me, mine was built in February 1998. So for all you people with early '99 Superduties, make sure you specify the manufacturers date when looking for your assembly. I'm sure the later model hub assembly can be used on the early '99, but why pay the higher price. Just find the parts store that offers the earlier hub assembly, they are out there.
Carquest $240.00 or so and you need to get newer rotors, just get the one's for after 3/99 Its the only one's they sell anywho......
Dick
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
James, the seal((axle tube) I didnot replace the main as a mechanic looked it over and said it was alright and every seal ordered(2) were wrong), can be had most anywhere. Be sure to check the date of manufacture for your truck because if it's the earler model your can replace JUST the bearing saving much bucks! the later as in the case of mine whas finaly found for $325 as the bearing is unremovable...I tried. I got the outerlocking nut off w/ an air hammer... it was guled on, the bearing itself is guled in and would require so much force to remove it would likly damage the entire hub. NOTE if you can get new studs(that hold the hub in the knuckle) get them...mine were abear to remove and galled at the same time. I was able to remove them and retread.
NOTE NOTE NOTE!!!!
Do your upper and lower ball joints($33 allup) AT the same time as I just did mine today and altough i'd been there before.. I'd just as soon done it all at once
Thanks FD!
cw
NOTE NOTE NOTE!!!!
Do your upper and lower ball joints($33 allup) AT the same time as I just did mine today and altough i'd been there before.. I'd just as soon done it all at once
Thanks FD!
cw
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
There's no year from 98 on that you can replace the hub unit internals, just the small needle bearing on the back of it. The early bearings have a .070 offset compared to the newer aft 3-99 units.
Dick
Dick
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
Originally Posted by 99f350sd
There's no year from 98 on that you can replace the hub unit internals, just the small needle bearing on the back of it. The early bearings have a .070 offset compared to the newer aft 3-99 units. Dick
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: NEBRASKA
Here's what I found. I had the parts store order one of the $142 bearings. Went to pick it up and as stated by someone else earlier, it wasn't the same. So the guy got his book out again and showed me the listing for what he ordered. It was for a 1999 F250 manufactured before 3/99. Notice there is no Superduty in the listing. The only other bearing assembly listed was for F250 Superduty manufactured after 3/99.
So I went to ford and asked them about it. The parts guy told me according to the computer there is a difference between the two (no idea what it is though) and the early '99 bearings are about $100 more expensive.
Where exactly is the .070" offset at?
So I went to ford and asked them about it. The parts guy told me according to the computer there is a difference between the two (no idea what it is though) and the early '99 bearings are about $100 more expensive.
Where exactly is the .070" offset at?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Just get the newer bearing and newer rotor and upgrade..
The offset has something to do with the caliper space to the rotor some guy's have used washers to space out the caliper. no idea why ford did that.
Dick
The offset has something to do with the caliper space to the rotor some guy's have used washers to space out the caliper. no idea why ford did that.
Dick
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
If anyone is working on their own front end, you'll want to piece together this seal driver. The parts list is a 12" long piece of inch and a quarter pipe, a cap threaded on one end, and a flange threaded on the other. You'll need to grind or machine the flange down to 3.80 inches to fit the seal perfectly. I had my machinest friend put a nice surface on it as well.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 5
From: St. Louis, MO
Part #s and Prices
I just posted all the part numbers and prices in the ball joint replacement "manual" started by Racer.
Here is the link.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...63#post3206663
I hope this helps others avoid the pain I endured finding the right parts.
Here is the link.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...63#post3206663
I hope this helps others avoid the pain I endured finding the right parts.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 756
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by seaweaver
Hey that's what I have.... What's a Strub??? how hard is it too replace?
How much?
If I ask for a strub, is the parts guy going to know what that is?
cw
How much?
If I ask for a strub, is the parts guy going to know what that is?
cw
LOLI'm sorry, don't mean to pick, but that's funny!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 5
From: St. Louis, MO
Originally Posted by jessejames88
i knocked my seals on with an old exhaust header reducer flange (bolt ring removed) and piece of exhaust tubing no damage to the seal, and with a little spray grease went right on!
This is the same reason they said to make sure the wheel bearing out ring was wiped down of any grease on the outside (after packing the bearings) and be sure no grease was used to ease pressing the bearing race into the hub assembly (it would result in a loose fit).
Just wondering if this makes sense to anyone else. I pressed on the seal without lubricant, but it would have been a lot easier with lubricant.