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I've got an early '99 f250 superduty PSD 4X4. I have been feeling a vibration in the floor boards at about 30 mph. Long story short, I found the passenger side wheel hub for one reason or another is dragging on the axle shaft. Badly, I might add. I didn't pull the hub off for lack of time. But I have been doing some searching and found something about a thrust bearing that can go bad. I thought the bearing hub was all one piece for like $300. Is there another bearing in there that is separate?
The axle stub rides on a caged needle bearings,when these are toast,it alows the axle stub to drag inside the hub.
Pull it apart very soon or the axle stub itself will need replacedalong with alot of other components.
Rich
Hey that's what I have.... What's a Strub??? how hard is it too replace?
How much?
If I ask for a strub, is the parts guy going to know what that is?
cw
I imagine the axle will have to be pulled. Does that involve opening the differential or will it pull out?
Proceedures man, proceedures!!!! This 4 wheel drive stuff is all new to me.
cw
I found out something interesting. The early '99 Superduty wheel bearing hub must be different than the late '99+ Superduties. Autozone has the assembly for $142 for a '99 Superduty built prior to March 1999. Lucky for me, mine was built in February 1998. So for all you people with early '99 Superduties, make sure you specify the manufacturers date when looking for your assembly. I'm sure the later model hub assembly can be used on the early '99, but why pay the higher price. Just find the parts store that offers the earlier hub assembly, they are out there.
Finnaly,
Are you pulling it yourself??
I just got mine apart and I'm trying to Understand what I'm looking at.
Of course the chilton' man. is useless...The terms and names are new to what I'm looking at and the is no exploded diagram for a reference guide.
I've figured out most of what's suppose to doing what, but I've yet to piece together where the slop was comming from.
1. I'm going to replace the bearings in the Bearing Assmbly ( I beleve there are two in there).
2. Upper and lower ball joints as I beleve the lower was loose.
3. axel shaft oil seal
4. The main seal. I was suprized at the amount of play in it. It looked ok and perhaps that what should be there...
5. shocks
6. $$$$
I really have a hard time veiwing the loads for this system in my head. I realize the Hub spreads a even pressure across the hub bearing, but it seemed there needed to be a bearing at the back of the hub where the U joint/cvc takes off... in other words right where what the manual calls the Main seal.
When I pushed the main seal back into the "Knuckel" , it mated to the back wall and squared up nicely. The axle was in the center of the axle tube, the old axle oil tube seal was right where it had rended. I seem to be missing the familure old "tighten the axle nut untill theres no more play then 1/4 more to snug the bearing" method for 2WD systems.
I have an Early 99. I have recently bought the later hubs AND the later rotors to "upgrade" to the 99.5+ geometry. You can't just use later hubs from what I have read. I am going to the later style only because I need both rotors and hubs and I want to be ablet to find parts easily if I am on the road. I do not want to be looking around for early 99 stuff out in the middle of Nevada...
I also picked up new hub studs, new seals (2 different ones for each side), orings, ball joints, caliper pin kits, and of course brake pads. I will be picking up rebuilt calipers as well. I also got some braided steel lines from Super Duty HQ.
FD,
Sooo the new hub I just ordered does not come w/ studs?? Hub studs not lug? The studs on my old hub look fine... untill I try to take them out!!?!?
I do not have the Time or money to trick my rig.. but I was thinking about painting everything down there to ease cleaning.
Those braided cables will take a rock alot better than mine so I'll stick to Ga red clay.
cw
The hubs come with lug studs installed. There are also four hub studs that hold the hub bearing assy on. You can re-use them, but I read that it's a lot nicer to just buy new ones so I did.
The "inner spindle bearing" that the axle rides in is National part # B-2110 and it's about $15-20 ... the problem is the axle stub rides on that bearing and if it's really bad, the stub will be shot. I managed to save mine, by reconditioning the axle with #80/300/600 grit paper and light machine oil, and about 2 hours of futzing with it.
The inner spindle bearing turns WITH the wheel bearing, so when the hubs are unlocked, that needle bearing is turning all the time.
I've already written about replacing this bearing, with a procedure of sorts, but I just don't have the time to type it up again.
The entire axle should pull straight out once the spindle is removed - maybe even with just the wheel bearing out of the way. Replace all seals you can.
Any links to that post.. the search enginge is time consuming.
The seals I just brought home are wrong. The axle tube seal and the "main Hub seal"
I swear half the trouble is getting the parts people on the same page as far as item names...as it seems everyone has their own names and numbers for everything.
I knew I should have bought the REAL shop manual back when I got this truck but it was $450.
I cannot figure out this "Main seal" and how it comes apart.
Can anybody point me to a breakdown schematic for this rig? A good pic is worth..
cw
i heard that these are special order only at the dealer or can i get them from napa?? if so anyone got part #'s for the axle tube seal, main hub seal and stub axle??
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