The darkside is definitely starting to pull me in on the current truck. I'm giving the MII serious consideration but that decision is still a little ways off.

As for the frame welding, I will likely have that done. It's one thing to have some wavy sheetmetal because I've screwed something up. It's another thing to have the front end fall off at 70 mph. Better safe than sorry.

As far as the floor panels go, I will likely take at shot at doing my own. As you guys have mentioned, buying a couple replacement panels is one thing but this will require a bit more than that. If I were to buy or have these panels made, it would cost more than finding a better cab and shipping it here. Since the truck will likely not be very stock when done, I will be able to hide mistakes with carpet and interior paneling.

I appreciate the suggestions to do the floor work with the cab back on the truck. I had not figuref on doing that, but it may actually make more sense. Another decision to ponder... If I do the floor work with the cab on the frame and reinstall the doors, another suggestion worthy of serious consideration, I should probably get the doors fixed up first. They have almost no metal left on the bottom either, but this does not appear to be a terribly difficult repair.

I really do appreciate all of the suggestions and comments. I will have a million more questions before this is done. I do feel a bit more comfortable having your collective wisdom to guide my as I progress on this project.

 

Bobby,

NEVER!(there, I used almost all of the font options I could)

The only way I would butcher up a truck is if I stumbled on a great deal on a truck that was already in the process of being modified. I like to keep them stock, or as close to stock as possible. I also find it easier for me to go the stock route because it's cheaper and I don't know anything about safely modifying a truck. If I run into trouble I can always look in my shop manual to find the answer, if I modified I would have to remember what I did with what part from what kind of vehicle. Just too hard.

 

Bob,

LOL....I hate it when you see one of those builds on tv or in a magazine where they show you the before and after pics and the before pics were a gorgeous original that could have been a show winner in the stock catagory.

I like the stock look and would have gone that route but my truck was pretty danged rough. I was looking to build a hot rod when I got my truck. I traded off a 49 Pontiac SilverStreak for the truck. The old Pancho would have made a great looking rod but it was in too good of shape to start messing with.

I guess I'm bi-polar or have multiple personality disorder as I luv 'em both ways (stock and modified) and most anything in between.

....has anyone seen the nurse? I think its time for my meds...

Bobby

 

I guess I should have clarified myself, I use the silicone spray very lightly and infrequently on the shielding cup and tip of my Mig torch and on my copper backer paddles. I don't spray it on the work since the gas shielded mig doesn't produce any appreciable amount of spatter, and what little there is get's knocked off with the sander. I always wash my metal with metal prep (Prep-sol) before painting.

 

I also have a Lincoln 100 HD and I've done all the weld-in patch repairs to the bottom of the cab,to the outside doorskin and to the holes on the inner fenders (with flux-core wire). I've also used it to weld the braces for my homemade spare tire holder under the frame. If useing the flux-core...just remember to go slow and be patient. These small welders can blow holes out just like the bigger ones if you run too hot or too fast.
I've ordered a gas conversion kit for mine because I am gonna weld up the roof seams and want a cleaner weld. I use a bigger mig welder at work and the shielded gas lays down a much better puddle.
For braces...what you currently have is fine, you just want a good tack weld anyway-nothing permenant.

Have fun with it.............Ed

 

How much is the kit going to cost and wher are you getting it from?

Thanks,

Carl

 

I actually found one on ebay...he had 5 for sale for 70.00 plus ship (auction # 7559358525 ). You can also go the lincoln welder home page and do a search for a dealer in your area. The only further charge would be a bottle if you dont have one and to fill it with shielded gas.
I think your 100 model takes the same conversion kit as my 100-HD #K610-1
but look it up to be sure.

 

AX,

On an earlier post you suggested tacking the doors in place prior to floor removal and doing the repairs on the frame. Willard could get away with just replacing the front floor section and the front corner braces, however almost 30 years ago I cut a complete floor out of a smashed cab in Ca. that is mint. Although my floor under the seat is solid it is pitted from a pad that was under the seat and trapped water for years. The cab is currently off the frame and ready for floor work. I had planned on welding cross bracing in the door openings and then cutting out the floor and replacing. I plan to do a butt weld all the way across the back 1/2" forward of the cross cab stiffener (about 6 inches forward of the back of the cab. Cross bracing would still allow some access for cutting out the old floor, fitting up the new and welding into place. Being that I am no longer a kid, tack welding in the doors and doing in on the frame although desirable, will probably put my back out of commission for weeks or months! Have you or anyone else been down this road on one of these early cabs? ( Willard is a 49)

 

I haven't had to repair a complete floor, but suggested welding the doors in place from looking at the pics of Texan's cab, and the fact that there is almost nothing left of the rocker panels across the bottom of the door openings or the floor. With that much rot I wouldn't trust welding bracing across without a way to verify and hold the shape of the opening. Just like hanging a door on a house, the unstable frame can be racked, twisted or "out of plumb" already, and solidifying it in any of those positions could make hanging and aligning the door a nightmare later. Measurement alone won't give the 3-D alignment "picture" that the door itself would. And yes I would repair/replace the doors first, you need a stable reference someplace to start from.
49W I understand completely! I'll be celebrating(?) my 6th decade of being around in a few months, and would not look forward to having to crawl thru a window to work on my truck. The more I get into it, the more I'm glad I bought a Panel, the working space inside is near luxurious to these ol joints!

 

AX,

You can trust me, the sixth decade is OK!

 

1) use the gas

2) Suggestion: go to a good sheet metal shop and have a piece of 16ga cut, have a couple of strengthening ribs put in it and make a floor. The experience is invaluable

3) follow the suggestions about bracing etc

4) good luck, keep us posted

 

I would get the gas kit!

Bruce

 

I got it this morning. Running out in a bit to buy the gas.

 

If you aren't going to be welding any Al or SS I'd get Ar-CO2. A lot cheaper than Ar or tri-mix, works well.
Also have the WS order you a spool of .025 ESAB EZ Grind wire (no alloy number or cross match accept no substitute) and pick up a pkg of .025 tips.

 

This may or may not be relevent but I have a Miller Synchorwave 180 GTAW (TIG) welder and I have built a few things using stainless steel...... and MAN! It's nice. Stainless is probably one of the easiest metals I have ever welded!


Aluminum was also VERY easy. So, If you even think you might want to try SS or Al, (using the right spool for your GMAW of course!)you might want to have the gas to do it! (I have never used a wirefeed welder for SS or AL though!)

Regards,

Rick