That pumps sounds like a real nice one, have you ever asked them who
makes it, I'm just wondering? ( Holley )? I bought a summit cam ,and I was
told that it was made by crane cams. Did you filter it before the pump,
because if you did not the pump could be full of trash? How about a return
line?





P.S it sounds like it could be over heating, and that it has a temp overload
protection!

 

I agree with snake wheels. Sounds like it is tripping the internal thermal regulator. Basically, a switch that opens at a certain temp, and closed when it cools. This usually happens when the current is too high. Causes for high current, low voltage (bad connections or long runs of too small of wire) or internal problems with the pump (bad windings or mechanical binding). If the thing will sit and idle forever, I'd suspect the supply voltage and wiring. The current demand is going to really spike when you nail it. Are you using pretty heavy gauge wire to it? Just for trouble shooting, do you have one of those monster caps to hang off of it? It seems like all those power amps use them now. That would level off the voltage and insure a consistent supply of electrons. It's got to have good wiring if you are going to make that fuel gauge drop fast!

 

well pocca like you said it will sit and idle for ever but i am running a really low gauge wire its a 14 gauge what gauge do you think i should run to it? and its like 12 ft of wire

 

Pocca, why would the current spike when you floor it? Doesn't make sense to me. Electric fuel pumps should run consistantly regardless of engine condition(rpm) , fuel delivery should not be impacted, especially with a regulator. It sounds like your suggesting that the pump has to work harded under load and this causes it to shut down. Thermal shut down would occur under any throttle condition and is more likely the result of poor wiring (as mentioned) or a bad pump. I would lean toward an electrical issue. How's the voltage regulator etc. on the truck to begin with? Will the pump shut down with to Hi or low voltage. Some basic electrical trouble shooting with a multi meter should find the problem fairly quickly.

 

It doesn't sound like this pump has a return. If it did, I would agree that it would just sit there merrily spinning. In this case, with no return, it either has an internal bypass, or some pressure shutoff hardware. I've seen both. Either way when you floor it, the pump wants to spin as fast as it can. The pump windings are a big inductor. They resist changes in current, so at idle the pump can start using the back electromotive force (ooo, that term is too long, but that's what the sparkies say...) for a real short off/on cycles. When you floor it, it can cause a long current ramp which causes a sag in supply voltage which leads to even higher current demand. The thermal protection device doesn't work off of the overall temp of the whole unit, but at the junction temperature of a semiconductor device on the incoming voltage supply line. This junction temp is sensitive to high current. The manufacturers are concerned that if the windings start shorting the thing can go into a meltdown and capow. Of course, this may not be the problem, but I've experienced stranger. I would run one gauge larger than the wiring that came with the pump. It is probably 14, so I'd run 12. Of course, make sure all of the connections are in good shape. I hope it helps.

 

This is a stab in the dark, but by chance have you wired this pump on a
circuit that has one of the old (failing) type ( fusable links )? I have saw them
act this way or even worst.

 

i dont know where it is hooked up since i didnt hook it up but i ask what would be the best plase to hook it up so it comes online when i turn the key i was thinking that maybe on the solenoid any one know?

 

I hooked mine up on the battery side of the solenoid with heavy wire and
made sure I fused it, I did like the feel of getting in (flip the switch). Makes
for more drag race feel! But the first few times you forget and it cranks and
then the line runs out, that makes you remember the switch.






P.S I don't remember what size wire or fuse. With you making such a long
run to the tank step up the size one or two sizes,want hurt a thing!

 

what would be a good connection point if i dont want to have to flip the switch im lazy wut can i say

 

Read post # 13 again.

Your life could depend on it

 

pardon me for being a total newb but i have no idea how do that im an early begginner to restoring im only 19 and ive been working on trucks since i was seventeen so im very limitted on what i know hehe

 

Okay, The oil pressure sending unit measures oil pressure and sends the value of the ground out to the gauge.
If you install a oil pressure switch (ground-out or power actuator) into the same line ,this will allow the fuel pump to COME ON when the pressure reaches 5 psi ( cranking the engine will bring the oil pressure to at least 5 psi) having this type of switch will also SHUT OFF the pump if you are invloved in a collision.
If you hard wire it to a manual switch and you are knocked unconscious or receive another physical impairment, the continued pumping fuel could feed a fire and burn you to death.

IMO <> That would suck

 

The only sure fail (safe) in the case of roll over is a fuel cell with a roll over
valve! You should use a oil presure switch as posted above, in the past I have
wired a master on / off switch on the back of vehicle. Be safe!

 

seems that i fixed the problem connected it to the battery switched for now but im gonna go with the oil later i do have another question seems that when i step on it and after i let go of steppingf on it the engine stays revved up what can cause this ?

 

Most likely, your throttle linkage is binding somewhere and keeping the carb open longer than you'd like. With the engine off, have someone move the gas pedal in and out while you watch at the carb. You should be able to trace the issue back to the pedal. The engine needs 4 things to run, fuel, air, correct ignition and compression. The gas pedal directly controls fuel and air supply at the carb. Seriously consider Mil1ions suggestion on the safety switching for the fuel pump. There are seveal ways to accomplish the safety switch, and it could prevent disaster. Always be safe, and live to tell the tale.