crack slow down a little when you type. some of your posts are almost written in spanish some are very hard to read.


quote

ha everyhting is good that way, no one trucks with it now, had a battery go missing once, but the ole 5 knuckle meat soother fixed that problem...............

not sure on this one?

 

the only words spelt wrong there are everthing and I said trucks instead of fu*ks and by 5 knuckle meat soother I mean I used physical force to aquire my battery back.......apparently I speak some fluent spanish? fluent might be spelt wrong?

 

I'm with you crack. I guess I speak spanglish too. I've found that depending on the year and hacks, the ignition switch (key) may be fed by the fusible link from the alt to the + battery side, or as in my case someone wired around it. I know on my girl's '78 there are no less than four fusible links that I have found (all by the starter relay,) but as everyone has noted, most solid state based devices are polarity dependent. The manufacturers throw out that last protection diode to save on cost... which mean there might be a whole bunch of cooked bacon on that truck. I hope that you have a shop manual with a diagram. If you stare at it long enough, the ignition switch, fusible links and starter relay should be labelled at least. Trace, dude. Oh, Mil1ion (talk about spanglish,) I wasn't trying to be down on everyone else, I was joking about how the hoggie's always straight to the point about buyin' stuff. Laugh a little, tell me to get stuffed or something. You dudes are so serious, man, no one's payin' you for this, cut up a little, would you all? If I can't take you tellin' me I'm a dope, that's my problem (OK, not ALL of you have to call me a dope...) No malice here, this place is kinda neat in it's own Halloween kinda way. Ooo, I can already smell the Turkey.

 

Burned some midnight oil last night and guess what I found.

Right from the 1975 Ford Shop Manual,

CHARGING SYSTEM FUSE LINK
The fuse link used on the Bronco, Econoline, Club Wagons, Parcel Delivery and light trucks, is a short length of insulated wire integral with the engine compartment wiring harness. It is several wire gages smaller than the circuit that it protects and is the color of the circuit being supplied by the fuse link. Service fuse links are green or black depending on usage. All fuse links have a flag moulded on the the wire or on the terminal insulator. Color identification of the flag or connector is:

• Red terminal insulator- 18 gauge wire,
• Orange terminal insulator- 16 gauge wire,
• Green terminal insulator- 14 gauge wire

The fuse link is designed to burn out, thus protecting the alternator and wiring when heavy reverse current flows, such as when a booster battery is connected incorrectly, or a a short to ground occurs in the wiring harness.
A burned out link may have a bare wire ends protruding from the insulation, or it may only have expanded or bubbled insulation. If it is hard to determine if the link is burned out, perform a continuity test.

 

so the fuseable links are there to prevent hella wire frying....but I think I might have done more than the fuseable link....ahh I hate wiring

 

Find the wires which got fried. Get a good soldering gun and flux solder.
cut, replace with same guage, solder, and with electrical tape (tape the solder and wires).

>how can I get it running,
>I have nothing at the ignition,
> and when it turns over it wont fire?
>could I have no power to the coil?

It's need to get postive "+" voltage (powered from the batter positive "+" terminal cable directly) from the wire and fusable link(s) coming for the starter solenoid, the postive "+" voltage and repairs need to be done to the wires and fusable links, junction(s), coming from the starter solenoid which is powered from the batter positive "+" terminal directly.

>it turns over if you short it out or whatever...
>but the fuseable link I got doesnt really fix the link thats fried...
>the one that is fried starts on teh battery side of
>the solenoid then like halfway down it has a
>little redwire running from it into some other place ha....

Some fusable links are solder with addtional fusable links, its like a junction of fusable
links. Make sure the repairs are done accordingly if the need for additional fusable
links are required, this would avoid costly expenses if this short was to occur once again.
Refer to how to spot a bad fusable link on previous post.

"When in doubt give us a shout"
__________
Richard
-----------
1975 Ford F150, 4x4, 4 speed, 390 Cid 30 over, blue printed
1976 Ford f150, 4x4, 4 speed, 360 CID 30 over
1975 Ford F250, 4x4, 4 speed, 400 CID blue printed
1978 Ford F150, 4x2, 4 speed, 302 CID stock

 

The fusible links are encased in the wiring harness that runs from the large lug on the starter solenoid that has the battery cable attached to it.
The fusible link itself is located about 18" along this harness just bfeore it starts to cross the firewall.

CAUTION: You need to be very careful when replacing & soldering in the new piece of fusible link.

It has to be the correct gauge & not get too hot or it will melt.

 

Mil1ion, I've noticed that most of the links are about that long. My local parts house sells the stuff by the foot. Have you ever heard of any sanctity in the length? My intiutive thought is that it would take longer for a longer length to burn, so you could theoretically adjust the duration of short required to burn the thing? Thoughts? I'm still trying to figure out the whole points thing, too.

 

I'll see if I can find the fusible links lengths.

 

Ill take the test light to it tomorrow and see whats up, the concept is simple but im just do damn lazy, and ive been workin on my other truck lately, since its my dailydriver it gets attention first.

 

I just had a similar problem with my 78. Turned out that the wire was actually fried. In the charging circuit there is a wire that comes off the alternator that is spliced (welded) to three other lines. They go to the regulator, the positive battery terminal (usually on the side of the solenoid) and the ammeter gauge on the dash. If your wires are all gussied up with electrical tape and the like, guess what? Time to pull that whole harness out and tech it with the continuity setting on your DMM (I hope you have one!) Attached to this harness should be the voltage regulator connector, a 2 and a 3 pin "bullet" style connectors, the 3 leads to the solenoid (+, I, & S) and the 3 alternator connections. Make expecially sure that the 3 that are welded together are making GOOD contact everywhere. A little contact is not enough. Remember, these have to carry current, not just register voltage. Hope this helps!

Shane