Teflon Rope Gaskets
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Teflon Rope Gaskets
I am replacing the rear oil seal retainer on my 312 Y block and was told that the silicone gaskets may not seal that well in an older engine. There is a new product which is made from teflon rope and I was wondering if anyone has any experience with that product. I was hoping to replace just the portion that came out with the retainer and leave the old gasket around the crank shaft in place any suggestions?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
I don't know about the nylon version of the rope seal, but I changed my rear main seal with the crank in place using the neoprene solid seal kit. I doubt I could have done it with any kind of rope seal as I had to push out the old seal from one end, and then rotate the new seal into place by working it around the crank journal and into the seal groove in the block. I can't imagine trying that with a rope seal (ever try to push on a rope?).
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 80
From: tujunga, calif
I've changed the upper rope seals, its a pain, but not impossible...there use to be a tool that went around the crank so you could pull it through,don't know if they are still avaliable anymore, and if you loosen all the main caps, the crank will drop down a little, and that makes it a lot easier
Jim
Jim
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
There is a device for installing the rope seals, it looks like one of those Chinese finger thingies, (The woven things that tighten as you pull). The thing that concerns me is making sure the surface is clean behind the crank.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: Adams,CO.
The small tool that you need is called a " Sneaky Pete " and is (or was) sold by Snap,cornhole,matco,etc. I got mine from CR Seals ( Chicago Rawhide) when all seals were 2 piece and rope or leather. It is a braided stainless chinese finger woven to a T-handle to pull the top half of the seal over the top part of the crank journal. You then trim with a razor and mate with the lower half in the rear main cap. Old school and works as soon as the rawhide swells to form a seal. Commonly used with "Indianhead #2" gasket shellac but the Permatex #2 in a tube works fine as well. Cleanliness is a must. Do not use hard tools, picks, etc near the crank. All this stuff is still available but not at the new wave self serve wanabe parts house. Poss names: Clevite,Sealed Power, CR, Michigan Seal, etc. Good luck.
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 372
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
Thanks for the input, I searched google and couldn't find anything that seemed to be the right kind of tool.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Walnut Creek, CA
I found a sneaky pete with the help of customer service from Lisle they are the company that makes it. If I loosen the main caps do I run the risk of screwing anything else up in the process or will the crank shaft just drop down slightly and then just need to be re-torqued. I also read that there is a typo in the manual that gives the recommended torque for the main cap bolts as 125 lbs when they should be torqued only to 95 lbs. Which is correct? Thanks, I don't think I could have tackled this job without FTE help.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 80
From: tujunga, calif
please remember I haven't done this in 25 years..so before dropping the crank try to get the seal in with the sneakypete...if you can, have someone help, have them rotate the crank as you pull the seal thru, a film of oil on the seal will help also, if you can't get it then you may want to drop the crank, loosen all the cap bolts, the crank will only drop a little ( about 1/16 in ) then retorque the bolts( 95-105 ft lbs ) before you trim the end of the seal...hope this helps, good luck
JIM
JIM
