Mobil Clean 5000
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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Mobil Clean 5000
My mechanic really likes Mobil 1 Synth, but I asked him about using the Mobil 5000, and he is concerned about a componenet within this oil that could possible have an adverse effect on internal engine seals. I didn't have time to ask him for more clarification, but would anyone of you know what he may be referring to?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
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From: Brentwood,CA
grbr, this has been gone over many times. your mechainic is talking about stuff he has no experence in. the chemical that would come to mind shows up as sodium. so it looks like coolant in tests. but is really a product of antimony. it has no ill effects on the seals.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Northern California
If your mechanic is concerned about seals, then I think he needs to educate himself on today's modern oils. Seal problems were more or less a product of 70s, early 80s era synthetic oil used then (which synthetic oil was a very small percentage back then, not many used it on a regular basis) and also the seal material itself from 60s and 70s era cars. Since then, synthetic oil is much, much better in many areas, as compared to it's pioneering oils. Engine seals, gaskets, are again, greatly superior to yesteryear. Even seals used today to rebuild a 60s - 70s early 80s era engine, are much better than what was used in a brand new engine in the 60s -70s. SO, if your mechanic is worried about seal compability with a modern oil such as Mobil Clean 5000, he is very outdated in his thinking. Mobil Clean 5000 and 7500 are perfectly fine oils, which can be used in virtualy any car, van, or pickup using a gasoline engine. Listen closely what your mechanic is saying. Like a doctor practicing medicine, things change, and if they are not up to speed on those changes, they'll be hopelessly behind the times. ED
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2005
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I agree... the cheapest API "starburst" oil today FAR exceeds what was spec'd for our older vehicles when they were new.
For example, in my '83 F250's owners manual, it shows SAE 30 oil being suitable down to 40F, but modern SAE 30 oils formulated with Group II basestocks can safely be used down to 15F, according to Chevron.
For example, in my '83 F250's owners manual, it shows SAE 30 oil being suitable down to 40F, but modern SAE 30 oils formulated with Group II basestocks can safely be used down to 15F, according to Chevron.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2005
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I'm not sure it's been conclusively proven that certain types or brands of oils yield greater longevity. Much more important is matching your maintenance schedule to whatever product you are using.
Having said that, I don't see how you can do anything that will guarantee getting 500,000 miles... there are just too many variables. You will give yourself the best shot if you choose good lubricants, good oil filters, drive carefully, and strictly adhere to an appropriate maintenance program.
Having said that, I don't see how you can do anything that will guarantee getting 500,000 miles... there are just too many variables. You will give yourself the best shot if you choose good lubricants, good oil filters, drive carefully, and strictly adhere to an appropriate maintenance program.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Iowa
Originally Posted by grbr95
Will I be able to get 500K out of my engine using Mobil 5000?
More than likely, the motor will develop some sort of internal problem between 200K and 300K. Just standard engine wear; NO particular brand of oil can prevent it.
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Senior User
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My best friend use to have a 1970's Chev Suburban...
The rear wheel wells were so rusted out he had innetubes fastened in some way to the outside of the wells to prevent water from spraying up into the back.
Engine was indestructible
The rear wheel wells were so rusted out he had innetubes fastened in some way to the outside of the wells to prevent water from spraying up into the back.
Engine was indestructible
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,899
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From: Lynnwood, WA
Originally Posted by grbr95
Engine was indestructible
), operating environment and load, amongst a few other things. Certain items (i.e. bearings) are more likely to cause sudden catastrophic failures than worn valves, for instance. There are things you can easily control (like changing your oil 
) but there are others (like the outside temperature or the length of your trips) that are not easy, or not practical to control. When I lived 5 miles from my work place, obviously, my trips were 5 miles long each way (even though I could've made it longer if I really wanted 
); now I live 25 miles from work -- it's definitely a lot better on the engine since those trips will boil off condensation, but regardless, I wish I only had a 5 miles commute since the time and fuel saved would pay for a new engine in a short amount of time!!In any case, unless your work involves driving, or plan to keep a car for very loOOong time, you are not very likely to put 500k on an engine.
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