engine hackers must read...
I have a '79 Merc Marquis with a 351W and a variable venturi carb. It also has a computer of some sort (feedback carb?) I plan on using this in a demo derby this summer. (car is trashed, don't worry!!) I have several questions pertaining to the removal and/or modification of emmission, fuel and electrical equipment. I'll list my questions and you can answer by number:
1. First thing I think needs to go is the variable venturi carb. Will a Motorcraft 2150 just "bolt right on"?
2. Do I need the tranny kickdown lever/bar? If so, will I have any problems replacing it on the 2150 carb?
3. Is the ignition module in a separate circuit from the computer? If not, I'm gonna find a points distributor.
4. There is an EGR valve behind the carb attached to the intake manifold. Can I remove the EGR and related plumbing and maybe machine a block-off cover for the opening?
5. If I decide to keep the VV carb (budget constraints), can I remove all sensors in the engine bay including the computer in the firewall? Will it be reliable if i do this?
6. Any other ideas you can pass along?
I need to build a reliable car. Controls will be purely utilitarian. I will have a 3/16 sheet of aluminum to act like an instrument cluster to house some gauges, push-button starter switch, starter solenoid (maybe a spare also) and voltage regulator (maybe a spare here too). I love working on my '75 390 with point distributor (although it now has Petronix ignition and large cap and wire mods) and 2150 carb. Circuits are easy to trace and problems are easy to fix.
Thanks for tryin' to help,
John
>1. First thing I think needs to go is the variable venturi
>carb. Will a Motorcraft 2150 just "bolt right on"?
>
>2. Do I need the tranny kickdown lever/bar? If so, will I
>have any problems replacing it on the 2150 carb?
>
>3. Is the ignition module in a separate circuit from the
>computer? If not, I'm gonna find a points distributor.
>
>4. There is an EGR valve behind the carb attached to the
>intake manifold. Can I remove the EGR and related plumbing
>and maybe machine a block-off cover for the opening?
>
>5. If I decide to keep the VV carb (budget constraints), can
>I remove all sensors in the engine bay including the
>computer in the firewall? Will it be reliable if i do this?
>
>6. Any other ideas you can pass along?
I have done this mod many times for derby cars.
#1 a motorcraft 2 barrell will bolt right on
#2 you do not need the transmission kick down
#3 the 79 uses a crank trigger ignition system with a locked down distributor.I replace this with a duraspark 2 system.
#4 Yes and yes you just need piece of steel with 2 holes in it.
#5 I do not recomend it the vv was a bad system at best a 2 barrell on one of these cars is a great improvment.
#6 I have a lot of other ideas have ran derbys for several years
send me a e mail if you want some ideas
Larry
Can't find your e-mail here (or anyone elses for that matter). E-mail me: jdrotert-at-nothnbut.net (remove the "-at-" and replace with "@"). Thanks for your time, Larry.
John
All two barrel intakes have the same bolt up pattern.
DuraSpark system may be your cheapest bet.
Suggestions:
1. Chain motor down to frame.
2. Put outboard motor gas can in back seat for fuel.
3. Fill empty gas tank with water or dirt.
3. Put battery in back seat also.
4. Screw tires to rims with sheet metal screws.
5. Modify fan clutch. Replace steel fan with plastic. The cheaper the fan the better.
6. Buy yourself a cervical collar, it's worth it!
7. Use manual shift when needed but keep hand off shifter otherwise. It's easy to brake shifter off once adrenaline gets pumping.
Marquis has potential for win.
Good Luck, Have Fun,
KingFisher








