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I can't get it out!!
I sprayed with liquid wrench... over and over again.
Nothing..,
I tried with all my force and couldnt' get it to budge.
Is the thread reversed on this??
Is it lefty tighty, righty loosy?
I didn't thinkso.. but i may be wrong.
I don't know what thread it is but a little trick I used to remove exhaust bolts was to run the engine fast to heat up the exhaust and the bolts came out fairly easy. Poll others for their advice...someone out there has to have done it already.
Originally Posted by Ray_N
I can't get it out!!
I sprayed with liquid wrench... over and over again.
Nothing..,
I tried with all my force and couldnt' get it to budge.
Is the thread reversed on this??
Is it lefty tighty, righty loosy?
I didn't thinkso.. but i may be wrong.
It's regular right-handed thread. Use a pipe wrench if you must, but get the exhaust hot first. If it's that hard to remove, that's the sign you have been neglecting the O2 sensor long enough. Don't put it off any longer.
got a propane torch, heat the pipe around the sensor and not the sensor, expands the metal thread mount.
put a light bead of anti seize on the compression washer of the new one.
compression washer is the culprit, corrodes to top of mount
use a long 6 point box end wrench on O2, put another large box end wrench onto the open end of first one. intertwine open end throat with box end of 2nd, put lots of pressure on the offending O2 and have partner smack the first wrench near base with 3 lb hammer.
shock therapy.
Make sure the anti-seize is the correct type for O2 sensors, as the kind used for spark plugs can cause problems. Its dielectric strength is too strong, and it acts as an insulator. It also may not withstand direct exposure to exhaust gases.
Make sure the anti-seize is the correct type for O2 sensors, as the kind used for spark plugs can cause problems. Its dielectric strength is too strong, and it acts as an insulator. It also may not withstand direct exposure to exhaust gases.
That's good advice, but it only applies to O2 sensors that rely on the exhaust pipe for a ground. The 4-wire sensors used on the Aerostars, at least for my '93 and '95, doesn't need that since it has its own ground wire. So you can use any anti-seize compound, as along as you don't get it on the sensor tip.
Since you got that vehicle used, check and see if the previous owner welded that thing onto the exhaust pipe. I can't imagine what would make a guy do a stupid thing like that, but you will never know. May be it was leaking and the guy decided to weld it instead of replacing it, or may be he stripped the thread and had to weld it. Otherwise, take it to a shop if you are ready to give up. Don't go for the emulator. You'll only get in more trouble if the fuel mixture is screwed up.
This is a surprise to me. I have never seen or heard of an O2 sensor that's this stubborn before. Anyone else? Did you try the fine "pipe wrench with a sledge hammer" technique?
Also, the O2 sensor is on top of the exhaust pipe, so from below you must go clockwise to loosen it. From above, it's counter-clockwise.
One of these fellows offered the trick (in another thread) of heating the threaded part with a torch and letting candle wax flow into the joint. Said it was an old blacksmith's trick. I haven't had the issue with the oxygen sensor but have used that trick on 3 or 4 other impossible jobs, and it worked every time.
I'd give that a try. If that fails, let someone who gets paid for it finish it off. You may need to cut the small section of pipe out and replace it. Due to its location, this is not as easy as I just made it sound.
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