Popped the turbo on a 02 F350 and when re-installing the new one going to put in a wicked wheel. Was wondering if it's beneficial to remove the flap(flap on exhaust side of turbo, think it's there just for warm up) to gain better flow through the turbo? A buddy said he did this on his to increase flow? Any info much appreciated!

 

first off, remember to replace the pedestal o-rings. i found out the hard way.

to your question- i would recommend leaving it on, if you are in a colder climate. the other use for it is an exhaust brake. garrett makes a replaceable cover (the 7 bolt cover of the wastegate mechanism) on the exhaust side that eliminates the valve, i believe. i have seen one.

 

Look Ma, no valve!
http://community.webshots.com/photo/474801850VSqUFt

 

I would leave the EBV, and use it asn exhaust brake.

We have the O-rings if you decide to remove the Turbo. We also carry the Superior Wheel, we just do not trade mark the name. All these wheels are made by the same manufacturer.

We also have a detailed instruction on how to replace, and gut the EBV if you choose to on our site.

 

Wildbill - just checked your site's tech page and the EBPV eliminator is just a copy of the EBPV "code" eliminator instructions. If BCD DOES have some good pics and directions on how to gut the EBPV, please post.

Thanks,

PSDB

 

Bear in mind this is just my opinion, but even with the EBPV operational. My '01 could idle all day when its cold and not reach a good operating temp until I drive it. I usually plug her in when it gets cold, and that does WAY more to help than the " great restrictor" ever has. I did a wicked wheel a little while back but I left my turbo on because I had no leaks then and didn't want any. But, as soon as it starts leaking, off comes the turbo and the EBPV. Here in Colorado I need all the air I can get. I did the torque conv. switch, and it works perfect for the 9000 lbs. I tow daily, so I don't need an exhaust brake. All I'm going to add is an idle controller so the "wet stacking goblin" doesn't pay me a visit.
If you plug her in and/or don't have any bad cold starting issues my vote is to gut it for more air + lower egt's + more ponies. Plus its one less thing to stick shut or leak.

Thanks,

Austin

 

HERE are some pictures and results of a Banks Exhaust Brake gone bad for those of you considering on using the EBPV as a brake.

 

i would like a little more info on how this happened....

 

If you think about it, when you tow, you are working your engine harder= higher egt's. Even when you back out of the throttle, it takes a while for thew temp to go down. Now restrict the exhaust so it holds in the heat instead of sending out the exhaust. It is going to thermally conduct to whatever it can. It will smoke the bearing holding the shaft for the turbo wheels and seeing how they are connected you will have total turbo failure. Turbos are tough and you can abuse them, but only up to their limits and then something has to give. I've seen more than one grenade from exhaust brakes. I'd rather build a stout $3000 tranny than blow up a turbo and possibly fry a $10-$12,000 motor.

Austin

 

Austin, I'm taking the trailer out this weekend, and am going to see how my truck works with the new 5" exhaust. I'm surprised that you say the turbos let go from using exhaust brakes. I would like to learn more on why you say that. I use my EBPV as a brake as well and never gave any thought to blowing up my turbo because of that. It saves from overheating the brakes coming down some long passes.

 

The traditional exhaust brakes are down line from the turbo, allowing the heat to go past the turbo before backing up. Thus the exhaust acts as a heat sink from that point back. If its right there at your turbo it gets hot a lot quicker. Plus the EBPV helps to defeat the main reason for a turbo, which is to move more air. This causes higher temperatures from the get go. I wanted to respond fully to this discussion, but I'm slammed here at home today. I'm pouring 22 yds of concrete tomorrow, and I need to get out there and compact the sub base. Read these two links I found that say it pretty well. The first one is from Jacobs (the original Jake brake guys) themselves. You might need to cut and paste these links. Sorry about that. Here they are, and I'll get back here this afternoon/evening sometime.
#1:
http://www.jakebrake.com/support/faqs.php#FAQ4
FAQ4:

Do you make a product for the Ford 7.3L Powerstroke or Navistar International T444E engines?

ANSWER:

No, Jacobs does not offer an exhaust or engine brake for these engines in fact, Navistar and Ford have requested that we do not develop one for these engines.
The primary concern with putting a retarder on these engines is their use of hydraulic lifters. Most engines with hydraulic lifters have fairly low exhaust back pressure limits so the performance of an exhaust brake would not be substantial. More importantly the use of an exhaust brake on an engine with hydraulic lifters can cause engine damage. The problem is that the increased back pressure resulting from the operation of the exhaust brake will cause some degree of valve float. This valve float can cause the hydraulic lifter to re-set with the valve still open (not seated). This phenomenon is known as lifter jacking. Lifter jacking could also result if a traditional engine brake were used on these engines. The results of lifter jacking can be anything from low positive power (because the valves stay open) to engine damage caused by valve to piston.

#2:
http://www.usgear.com/alert.htm

now I have to go get my pilots liscense... "take all that dirt, and pile it over there" lol sorry for the bad joke, but there's plenty more of 'em I hate to say.

Austin

 

Thank you Austin. I have some decisions to make.

 

This turbo was pulled of a "99" PSD which had the Banks Exhaust Brake configuration. The system that was on this "99" does not look entirely like the exhaust brake that Banks is selling now. Perhaps back in "99" it was a different design?

Anyway, the mechanic (a friend of mine) said the owner was coming down some steep grades and noticed his EGT going through the roof. He then smelled burning oil and shortly threafter, some very loud squealing and grinding. He was unable to pull over before the damage was done. He popped the hood and he said his turbo and EBPV assembly was glowing cherry red.

Post mortem was that somehow the EBPV actuator malfunctioned, partially or completely closed the EBPV valve which overheated the thrust bearings. The turbo shaft became loose end to end and the exhaust wheel began to bind against the housing, ground it all up and seized.

 

ugh.... is there any maintenance that needs to be done on the EBPV system to help prevent this...? was the owner using the valve as an exhaust brake...? did he have an exhaust brake setup..?

 

Yes, read above. The Banks Exhaust Brake was installed and for some reason malfunctioned.

I completely removed my EBPV housing and installed the no shaft, no valve EPBV housing as per the link in my 1st post.