It's been 15 to 18 degrees the last few mornings here. I don't have a block heater. I only have to crank over about 3 seconds before the engine fires up. That didn't happen with the stock GPR.Somewhere around 5 seconds before I installed the Stancor. I didn't change out the old relay, because it was bad. I swapped it out because I was told the Stancor was a much better unit, and it is. If the Stancor doesn't flow more amps, as your telling me, maybe I had a problem I didn't know about, but unknowingly fixed when I installed the Stancor. I guess there could have been corrosion on the wires I didn't see, but when I installed the new GPR, the wires are making better contact.? The wires did look clean though.Maybe the old relay could have been weak, and I didn't know it. It seemed to work fine though. At any rate, I'm not having any starting problems, and the engine does fire up sooner. I understand wires will only flow so many amps, for their size, but all I did was change GPRs, and it starts easier now.

 

Hey,

i just found this on .... great thread!

okay,....

thanks through the search here I have hopefully found the right parts I have ordered! I have a 97 F-350 4x4 and I hope I have the right ones? Please let me know ...

I bought a new GPR Stancor relay

586-902

And also 8 new Glow Plugs from Motorcraft - Part Nr. ZD-11
I bought these from Dieselfilter! They sell the plugs for 9,75 per piece! Good price I think ,....

7.3 Liter Turbo Diesel Glow Plugs - Ford 7.3 Liter Turbo Diesel Motorcraft Glow Plug

What about the glow plug harness, would you change this ? Anyone has a part nr. of what harness you would recomend ?

Thanks
Fabian

Links:

Glow Plugs

7.3 Liter Turbo Diesel Glow Plugs - Ford 7.3 Liter Turbo Diesel Motorcraft Glow Plug

Stancor Relay

586-902

 

I have a 97 7.3 psd with 138K. I have an issue with my cold starts as well. I have noticed when I go to cycle the gp's, my dash volt gauge either goes to the n in normal, or just to the left of n. If it goes to the n, truck wont start. It goes to the left of n, starts right up. I just checked my gpr. I hear the click when I turn the key, but I get 12 plus volts across the big terminals no matter if if key is in or out or if gp's are cycling. Perhaps gpr is stuck or weak? I get 12 plus to one of the little terminals, and nothing to the other, when key is in on postion.

 

<P>When your volt gauge is reading to the left of "N" the circuit for your GPs is being completed. That's why it starts right up. When it's reading on the "N", you say it won't start. That would make sense if you had a bad GPR. It won't complete the circuit all the time, so the gauge doesn't drop as far. The GPs won't light either. On your GPR, one of the small terminals is a ground, so you wouldn't show any power at it. Install a new GPR. That should cure your problem. You could also have a GP harness periodically grounding out, but that is doubtful, the way your gauge is reading.</P>

 

Make sure you obtain a gpr that is not grounded to base. If it is, it will cook your ECM. You can tell if it is grounded to base by connecting your ohm meter to one of the small terminals and the other to the base plate. IF YOU GET RESISTANCE, DO NOT USE IT. Your ECM(PCM) controls the ground connection and cuts it off after a given period of time. Note: I purchased my pcm from a boat hardware store for $17, and the owner advised me that any selenoid that is not grounded to base will do the job, as starter selenoids carry much higher amperage that the expensive gpr's sold by your dealers and auto parts stores. You should be able to buy one not grounded to base for $25 at the auto parts store. Make sure it is not grounded to base, however. My sales owner is an electronics expert.

 

Let's see if I can explain this the way it was explained to me.

Disconnect the wire connectors at the valve cover (on top - there's two per bank).

There should be five pins in each connector end. Test the outer pins. They should read something ridiculously low like 0.5 ohms or less. Something around 5 - 20 ohms isn't bad either (I think).

Someone will chime in with more accurate numbers, but if you're close to these numbers, you'll be okay.

If a bank has one out of range, you might as well replace all in that bank. Identify the good ones and keep them as spares.

I was having cold-weather starting troubles last winter. Replaced the GPR during a snow storm. Three of four GPs on the right bank were bad (reading infinity) so I replaced all eight. I didn't bother with finding good ones to keep as spares. She's starting better than ever now.

Get the BERU glow plugs. I think it was the Autolites that tended to break off inside the head or swell up or something bad like that.

 

I read through the majority of this thread and didn't see the issue that I am having.

First, I don't own one of these YET. I would like to. I am looking at a 94 super duty that is a retired and very tired fleet maintenance tire truck. It has a PS engine I believe based on what I have read here.

The truck starts well first thing in the morning I drove it a couple of miles and everything looked good. Parked it back at the shop and shut it down. Tried to restart it and it would not. It cranks but doesn't seem to even try to fire.

I know that it has not been "well" maintained because there was only a hint of oil on the dip stick when I looked at it yesterday.

When I drove it this morning, after them charging the batteries last night, the engine seemed solid. Not a lot of smoke, basically I couldn't tell that it was smoking at all via the mirrors. Sitting still it was clean as well. I felt that it was running well.

They mentioned that they have had the issue of it not wanting to start again once it started in the morning. Their work around was to keep it running all day.

Only 185k on the engine. I am just wanting to play with the diesel. However, I want one that I can start(I don't need a pet). I have an opportunity to get this one for not much.

Why might the truck not want to start again when it has started cold easily but won't start warm immediately after being run?

 

This is just what I need. My scanner reads P0380, but no one has been able to tell me which is circuit A. I will just test all my glow plugs.

 

If I recall correctly, bank "A" is the bank with Cylinder #1 in it.

 

Circuit "A" is the small Purple w/Orange stripe wire going to the GPR.

 

Hi everyone! I have replaced GPR, Glow plugs. Checked out the electrical to the plugs. Checked Fuse 22 as per instructed on this tread. Checked Fuel Bowl heater. All the checks were positive and good. When it is above 50 degrees(10 Degrees Cel) the motor will romp romp before it starts and then until it warms up it runs on half the cylinders. If it is plugged in it runs on all cylinders. After it is running my charging system is at the N for a long time (at least 10 to 15 minutes) before it starts charging. ( Alternator and starter are new as are the batteries) Now It is going down to 32 degrees and colder the truck starts when plugged in for at least 3hrs it will start but run on half cylinders till warmed up. If is plugged in longer it runs on all cylinders. When running my electrical system totally discharges to the point of draining the batteries, my glow plug circuit is staying open, I have to disconnect after I start not to kill the batteries. When the temp is below 14Degrees There is no way the truck will start even if plugged in (BH new as well I put a external aux Oil pan heater). I have read all the posts I thought relative and still have not been able to figure out what is wrong. Is there a temperature snsor of some sort that I do not know about? My glow plugs sequence properly as I have tested it numerous times. Did I mention that I have to use some throttle to get it started.
Any Ideas?

 

first off welcome to FTE screech. DO NOT press the go pedal when starting these trucks you can damage things!!! Do you have the GPR hooked up backwards?

 

Thank you 14PSD for the welcome. I do not believe so. I installed a Standen GPR and hooked up the wires in the same configuration as they were taken off. If they were backwards to begin with ( I purchased the truck with this problem) I cannot say. What is the proper order these wires have to be set up on the GPR?
screech.owl

 

screech here goes I believe this is correct
*One of the big terminals should come from battery should always be hot
*The red/ltgrn wire goes to the fuse box number 22
*The ppl/orange wire goes to pcm and ground at there
* the other big wire goes to glow plugs
Hopefully some one can chime in and confirm this. I haven't dealt with that part lately, I changing the gps and having a "fun" time. NOT!

 

Hope you bridgded the power terminals. Those are the one with the rubber cap and the one directly opposite it. You should have seen some big sparks when you bridged the terminals. if you saw no sparks, your gpr was probably operating. Test with a test lamp or meter to the terminal opposite the power feed. Remember the gpr is timed, so have some one in the cab to turn the key while you test. If the motor is warm, the gpr only operates for a short time.

jer