Well after the success with the exhaust manifold I figure it's time to start on the next items. The instrument panel does not light up, I downloaded a diagram for a 64 from a post link here and will begin trying to figure out what is the deal. All the exterior lighting functions (headlamps HI/LO,brakes,signals,hazard-needs a fuse) only the inst. panel and dome do not light. Any tips greatly appreciated..I'm no electrician, "but I can help with prepress/graphics" hint hint..
Also I will get a carb kit this weekend and rebuild it as the thing runs so poorly after a tune up. I will check all the issues before the rebuild (comp,timing,etc..) but I'm sure a rebuild is in order..the acc pump for sure is an issue.

 

There is a short length of wire coming from the top of the gauge cluster. The wire is a ground wire that has to be connected to the dash to complete the circuit. Make sure yours is connected. With the dome light either the bulb is blown or the headlight switch is broken more than likely. There is really no way to say WHAT the problem is with things like that. Only good advice. Check the routine stuff first, ie:bulbs, fuses, whatnot. Then look for bad connections.

Always remove the negative battery connection!

Remove all watches, rings!

You can't go wrong....

 

Remove the lights switch and check the dimmer for problems. If you have the 64 schematic the lettering system on the switch is still nearly the same if not identical. I think 'I' is Instrument panel, 'D' (possibly 'D1' and 'D2') is dome, 'H' is headlight, 'P' is parking lights, 'A' and 'B' the Power side. Seems there may be one more pin but my memory isn't entirely sober right now.

To get the light switch **** out, ther is a button on top of the switch that must be depressed while pulling the **** out. Then unscrew the bezel.

If you have any lights, you are getting power to the switch. Check for continuity across the Battery pin ('A' or 'B') and the 'I' pin with the switch on.

 

With all instrument lights out, would start with the ground and switch as GregTruck suggested. Found good ground was main cause of problem during 65 rewire, particularly with the plastic type instrument clusters. Seem to recall there is a wheel with a resistor wire in the switch that when rotate **** makes contact to dim or brighten cluster. Perhaps not making good contact. May want to try spraying with electrical contact cleaner to include removing the **** and lightly sanding shaft.

On first attempt on Carb rebuild posted topic in the "fuel injection, carbureion, and fuel systems" forum and received several helpful suggestions. Couple points come to mind. Emphasis placed on preparing clean-clean work area. Take carb apart and set overnight in Carb Cleaner. Suggest removing items that could be damage by soak. Found needed a 'clutchhead' screw driver to remove couple of the plates properly, stripped a screw trying to use a phillips. Use compressed air to blow out cavities. If no compressor a can of aerosol compressed air used for cleaning computer components should work. Post any problems in the forum you will find number of knowledgeable members on the topic. Thought would add my $.02, good luck!

dave

 

I thank everyone for the insight very much. I will start with the ground wire first as it sounds very simple and possibly right on target. I do have the spring wrapped dimmer/dome doodadd so I'll see what happens when power is finally going correctly.

Carbs, aggreed clean area/parts and plenty of soaking (I've only ever done carbs for my Merc 650 marine engine and there is no comparison) so crossed fingers and several posts will probably be the answer I'll read the instructions and post questions prior to attempting the rebuild and troughout when stumped..

Thanks You All Again, I am so very happy I found this site God Bless Google LOL

,Redmanbob

 

Success!! yes the ground was ok. It turned out some terminal cleaner did the trick after removing the switch. After pulling the plug and jumping across the leads the ground was outa the picture. So removing the swicth showed corrosion on the leads etc,,, A little cleaner and sand paper did the trick just need a few new bulbs.

Question: any idea why the turn signal would blink only on the right cluster lamp no matter which direction the signal switch is turned to ? They work outside fine but the cluster always says right turn...

Thanks for the help with the electrical troubleshooting...PS the advice about the push button release came in very handy... I'd never have figured it out on my own. Redmanbob

 

There is no right and left indicator. what looks like the left hand indicator is your highbeam indicater. the one on the right just means your blinker is on.

 

Well there ya go... Thanks... I guess I spoke to soon while tinkering with the dimmer the switch began to smaoke and the spring fell out in pieces $35.00 later the new switch works fine. LOL from inspecting it the old one had a very week dimmer tounge I think it bound the spring and caused it to short and melt.. ?? any who it's working now ... Phew!...Carb time...