Illegible Timing Marks
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 42
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Illegible Timing Marks
I was addressing a flat-spot-during-acceleration issue and decided to check the timing among other things. I just got this truck and haven't checked the timing before. The problem started when I replaced the vacuum advance which had been shot for who knows how long.
The problem is I can't see the timing marks...well...actually I can but they are so faint I can't tell where they start or end and I just can't see most of them. I've tried cleaning the surface with a Scotch Brite with no success.
How can I make the marks more legible - OR - how can I check or set the timing by ear without them? Should I rub the marks with a grease pencil and then wet sand them? This has worked on other cars of mine, but I thought someone might have a sure-fire solution here.
It's a stock 360 2bbl.
Thanks!
The problem is I can't see the timing marks...well...actually I can but they are so faint I can't tell where they start or end and I just can't see most of them. I've tried cleaning the surface with a Scotch Brite with no success.
How can I make the marks more legible - OR - how can I check or set the timing by ear without them? Should I rub the marks with a grease pencil and then wet sand them? This has worked on other cars of mine, but I thought someone might have a sure-fire solution here.
It's a stock 360 2bbl.
Thanks!
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 976
Likes: 0
From: SOUTH CAROLINA
i used to set mine when i didnt have a timing light with the hood shake. get it warm and start adjusting the dizzy one way or the other untill you get the least amount of hood shake and it will be very close.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
You can buy timing mark tape specifically made for your FE.....the tape is applied to the balancer and gives you bright legible numbers and even marks the balancer every 90 degrees....cost $5..... summit sells it for one place to check....
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
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That's great. The only problem on their site is that for 1968 Ford they don't list the 360, only the 302 then the 390 and up. Do you know offhand if my balancer is 6-3/8" or 7"?
[edit] Also, what a reliable "zero" indicator to use when applying since I can't see mine.
[edit] Also, what a reliable "zero" indicator to use when applying since I can't see mine.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I've had the tapes before. Need to spray them with clear laquer or such to seal them. Mine blew off shorty after application.
As for finding TDC, stick a rod in #1 spark plug hole and have someone rotate crank back and forth to find TDC(where rod does not move up or down). This will get you close. It should then let you find the spot on crank too? It should have a notch in balancer.
BTW, the 390 tape will work fine. Same motor.
As for finding TDC, stick a rod in #1 spark plug hole and have someone rotate crank back and forth to find TDC(where rod does not move up or down). This will get you close. It should then let you find the spot on crank too? It should have a notch in balancer.
BTW, the 390 tape will work fine. Same motor.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
You might need to know also that many of the 30+ year old balancers lose their timing. The rubber ring loosens or breaks inside, and the outer ring with the timing marks slips.
If you find that the engine won't run right even after setting the timing, try advancing it a bit more incrementally to see if that solves the problem. You'll need to advance it if this has happened, because the outer ring will retard. It happens usually when the engine is goosed, and the rubber ring gives way under the inertia of acceleration. The center piece of the harmonic balancer (bolted to the crankshaft) keeps going, but the outer ring with the timing marks gets left behind. It happened to my 352.
I used to set the timing on my '66 352 by ear this way:
With the engine warmed up and at idle, I would advance the timing by ear until the engine would run rough. I would back it off a bit to get it to run right, then adust the idle to 600 RPM on the carb idle set screw.
If it started or ran poorly, I would retard the timing incrementally again, until it started and ran well.
If you find that the engine won't run right even after setting the timing, try advancing it a bit more incrementally to see if that solves the problem. You'll need to advance it if this has happened, because the outer ring will retard. It happens usually when the engine is goosed, and the rubber ring gives way under the inertia of acceleration. The center piece of the harmonic balancer (bolted to the crankshaft) keeps going, but the outer ring with the timing marks gets left behind. It happened to my 352.
I used to set the timing on my '66 352 by ear this way:
With the engine warmed up and at idle, I would advance the timing by ear until the engine would run rough. I would back it off a bit to get it to run right, then adust the idle to 600 RPM on the carb idle set screw.
If it started or ran poorly, I would retard the timing incrementally again, until it started and ran well.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
I just cleaned up a balancer with some naval jelly and it dissolved all the rust down to the marks. Made them really easy to read.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
LOL. Come to think of it, the old 360 from the "Screeming Yellow Zonker" had a hell of a lot of oil on it. Maybe try a wire brush or something to get the crapola outa the way. I was working on a 351W.
