Hi, when I ride on rough ground, my front brake rattle, makes noise. When I press the brake pedal with little pressure, the rattling stops.

I installed a new Caliper wiht a rebuilt one and installed new pins. Is there a fix to this problem? Either shimming the pin or a bigger pin?

Thanks,

Mike

 

check the caliber pins, my truck likes to work them loose, and the caliber bounces all over the place,for some reasion the left front does not want to stay put,i havent had a chance to realy look mine over,i just replaced the lower pin after it was being ground down by the wheel

 

The caliper tree is worn. Pins will fall out, caliper will rock back and forth at low speeds, drives you nuts.

Take the wheel off and try to raise and lower each caliper along the circumfrence of the rotor, you will see the play that is causing the noise.

For a fix I took my MIG welder and put several small beads of weld in the bottom of the pin groove. Now the pins fit much tighter and the rattle is gone.

I also bend one side of the pin over on each side of the caliper when I install them, that way they can not come out while driving down the road.

 

Ok this looks like a good fix to spot weld the Caliper, I just wonder why nobody came with a bigger pin or some sort of shims.

 

The correct fix is to install a new spindle tree. But new parts are very hard to find these days. You must have about 200 thousand on yours, that is about when mine started to annoy me.

Also I do not think Ford intended for us to drive these things for as many miles as we do. You know, they want us to buy new ones.

If you do this either put the weld spot down in the V on the caliper or down in the V on the caliper mount.
I tried to put a spot on each end of the top of the slide, that was OK, but I also had to sit there and dress it down with a flat file so the caliper did not bind up on the weld spots. If it binds up you may have wear problems with the brake pads. Don't ask how I know.
Tear it all apart and work on each side for an hour with a flat file, don't think I will forget that lesson.

 

I just fixed mine not 2 weeks ago by putting in new pins. $20 and 30 minutes later it stopped. I always thought it was my exhuast clanging against a crossmember, now I have more bailing wire under there than I dont know what. It was annoying and embarrasing driving into the rough parking lot at work and having it sound like the truck was going to fall into pieces right then and there. Wish I would have read this thread 2 months ago.

 

I been replacing the pins every 600 miles or once a week, or what every comes first, this weekend i got to dust off the old welder having the caliber shake the entire front end is very anoying in stop and go traffic

 

dieself250, if the caliper is shaking the front end when you are stopping, your problem is different than mine.

What I had was a clunk clunk clunk as I was driving down the street slowly.
A very light pressure on the brake pedal and it stopped making the noise.

The friction of the pads on the rotor was lifting the caliper up to the top of the caliper tree, then it fell back to the bottom over and over.

It did not shake the front end, you could barely feel it in the steering wheel, but it was rather noisey at about 20 MPH going through the residential areas with lots of cars parked on the side of the street to reflect the noise back at the truck.

Do this with care, you don't want a big puddle of weld metal or it will be to tight for the caliper to slide back and forth as the pads wear.

 

It shakes between 0 to 35mhp, at the end of the week, i can grab the caliber and move it almost a 1/4in i can pull the pins right out. the caliber realy dosent shake the front end the clunking just gets amplified on realy bumpy roads

 

The problem is that it has to be a snug fit, but not too tight. It has to move otherwise it will jam. The pins comes with rubber in the middle to it gives a little bit of slack when needed.

If I could find some thin metal shims to fit between the pin and the Caliper it would probably do the trick. I have an Aircraft shop near my house, I will check with them. About the welding spot, not sure how thick is good. Like Dave say, you must file it down and dress it for the proper fit. With the shims, you can add or remove as you wish and the pin is an easy fix
What about weld spot on the pin? humm....

 

If you try to weld on the pins, have a bucket of water close by, the rubber will burn.

 

Guess it is not a good idea.

thanks