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To revive the topic about stripped thread on the transmission case.
I tried to stop the drip on the weak 10mm housing bolt and the bolt come off without big resistance having lot of aluminum shavings on the end.
Does anyone has a long helicoils to repair such a thing? I could probably enlarge the hole to insert the helicoil, but the bolt is like 2" (50 mm) long and I haven't seen such a long helicoil taps. I can weld extension on standard tap, but don't even want to think about breaking it inside the hole.
Anybody knows a good and EASY fix?
The tap you'd use for a heli-coil is a "STI" type or "Standard Thread Insert." The tap itself doesn't need to be long if you can weld an extension on fairly straight. The coils themselves come in lengths of 1,1.5, and 2 times diameter. The longer the insert, the more difficult it is to install. A "pre winder" is invaluable during install. Do you know what size the original bolt thread is? Where in the bay area are you? I have some STI taps and pre winders.
Also- WD40 is a very good lubricant for tapping aluminum. Is this a blind hole or does it go through to the inside somewhere? Typical taps shove the chips down the hole.
Hi Andy. I am in Orinda, so with the traffic we are not too close. The bolt is 10 mm, per the manual, but I never measured it. From what I see it is blind hole. I dealt with helicoil in deep aluminum hole in the past and it was a pain. Another issue is that original threads lengths are about 3 times the diameter, but steel helicoils should be stronger than aluminum thread. Ideally the transmission should be taken apart and than helicoil install, but I hate to make small fix such a big job.
hey guys this may be the place to settle an age old dispute between some of my friends and i... the truck in question is an 00 7.3L diesel with the 6 speed, he claims you are only supposed to use the clutch to stop... I never owned one of these so I don't know if you're supposed to shift with clutching or not, but 120K later he still only uses the man pedal for stopping action. Is this supposed to be this way, or is his tranny just holding together on pure awesomeness thru that abuse?
Changing the gears in manual without clutch is possible, but require lot of attention and practice. I had aux manual transmission on motorhome with automatic main transmission. Shifting up is easy, but downshifting gets pretty tricky.
So how your friend starts without using the clutch?
Years ago I had a car where hydraulic clutch mechanism leaked. I was turning engine off at red lights, engaging 1st to start using starter and once the car was moving I could shift up. Still lot of stress on vehicle.
Changing the gears in manual without clutch is possible, but require lot of attention and practice. I had aux manual transmission on motorhome with automatic main transmission. Shifting up is easy, but downshifting gets pretty tricky.
So how your friend starts without using the clutch?
Years ago I had a car where hydraulic clutch mechanism leaked. I was turning engine off at red lights, engaging 1st to start using starter and once the car was moving I could shift up. Still lot of stress on vehicle.
Well my bad I included starting with stoppin in my head lol. I know any transmission will do it, but i guess the question is, is the 6 speed designed to operate like that? Or in the owners guide does it recommend clutching?
If the manufacturer installed the clutch -it is there to use it on every gear changes.
There are clutch-less manual systems that use centrifugal clutches or other gizmos, but IMHO there is good reason why they are not getting wide use.
Your friend 120k on the truck is nothing. My truck had double that.
If the manufacturer installed the clutch -it is there to use it on every gear changes.
There are clutch-less manual systems that use centrifugal clutches or other gizmos, but IMHO there is good reason why they are not getting wide use.
Your friend 120k on the truck is nothing. My truck had double that.
120 is nothing, but considering his clutch style i thought it was impressive... since day 1, clutch for stop and go, not shifting. His logic is fully synchronized gears, what's there to grind if its not used?
Did you ride with him? Is he really that good that will change the gears without grinding?
Synchronizers are design to take the impact of few ounces of gear not 4 tons of truck.
Did you ride with him? Is he really that good that will change the gears without grinding?
Synchronizers are design to take the impact of few ounces of gear not 4 tons of truck.
I've ridden along many of times, and never a noise other than the turbo spoolin...
Hi Andy. I am in Orinda, so with the traffic we are not too close. The bolt is 10 mm, per the manual, but I never measured it. From what I see it is blind hole. I dealt with helicoil in deep aluminum hole in the past and it was a pain. Another issue is that original threads lengths are about 3 times the diameter, but steel helicoils should be stronger than aluminum thread. Ideally the transmission should be taken apart and than helicoil install, but I hate to make small fix such a big job.
One times the diameter is really all you need if it's a good tap and helicoil install. We'd occasionally use 2 times DIA on some parts we made in the shop but it wasn't really necessary. Like you stated the helicoil material is much harder and stronger than the alum threads.
You can buy a "bottoming" STI tap that you technically should use a standard STI tap to start the threading then use the bottoming tap. It will send the chips up instad of down into the blind hole. Use tweezers and or compressed air to get the chips out when done tapping.
I personally use the clutch at all times. The thing about the syncros is yeah they're there and they do "syncronize" the speed of the gear to the output shaft, but with the clutch "in" the mass of the flywheel and clutch is all it has to syncronize. With the clutch "out" you add the mass of the rotating assembly to the workload of the syncros.
Instead of using a Heli-coil, look into using a timesert. They are a better design of thread repair, and less prone to leaking.
As far as "granny" shifting, it won't present any problems unless you are bad at it. All it really does is force the user to match revs of the input shaft and the desired gear so they'll slip together. It has been done for years, even on unsynchronized transmissions. Unfortunately, the synchros will mask any error caused by the driver, and turn them into wear.
I've ridden along many of times, and never a noise other than the turbo spoolin...
It has to be some kind of noise. There are 2 possible techniques
1. pull the level to neutral and than observing the speed and rpm try to get gears running at the same speed for smooth engaging. NOT HUMANLY POSSIBLE at all gears IMHO
2 do a quick shifting where with upshifting and taking the gas pedal up-the rpm will drop close to the correct speed and the difference will be taken by flexibility of the drivetrain. It did work OK on my mentioned aux transmission, but than the main transmission had converter with big flexibility. The gears still engage with a "click" indicating some stress.
Will your friend transmission last till 200k I will admit he is good
With electronic sensor technology, I've wished that they would put a second needle on the tach...
Your engine RPM (the big needle) shows the lay gear speed (input shaft is always connected to the lay gear), while a shorter (or thinner) set of needles could show your other gear speeds. It would make it one heck of a lot easier to learn how to rev match for a beginner. It is not very necessary unless you're towing, but being able to heel-toe a downshift to save your brakes is a necessary skill.
In the long run will it hurt to start in 2nd? I have a 99 F250 5.4 3.73 and 1st just seems too short without hauling or towing stuff. Thanks in advance for any response.
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