Front End/Steering noise
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Elder User
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Front End/Steering noise
okay, time to give me the bad news. When turning hard left, I get an awful screeching noise from the front driver's side. I've poked around online and it sounds like it may be the bearings. Does this sound right? Also when driving over uneven/hilly roads there is a creak from the front end, possibly also just the driver's side. I've got 150,000 miles on my 98 Ranger 3.0. So am I looking at shocks and bearings or something else. Thanks for any input.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 943
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From: Randolph, NJ
Is your truck 4wd or 2wd? That will help narrow it down.
My guess whenever I hear front end creaks is ball joints. I wasn't convinced when I started reading your post, but when you said uneven/hilly roads, that's my guess. The ball joints get used both during turning and vertical suspension travel, so you'll hear them during turning and on bumps. The stock ball joints do not have grease fittings (Ford considers them "greased for life"). At 150k, if yours haven't been replaced, I'd think it was high time for it.
You can sometimes get an idea of what's making the noise if you lay under the truck while a buddy bounces the front end up and down by hand. You can also inspect the ball joint boots. If they are cracked/gone, you probably lost the grease and are grinding metal on metal now.
-Jim
My guess whenever I hear front end creaks is ball joints. I wasn't convinced when I started reading your post, but when you said uneven/hilly roads, that's my guess. The ball joints get used both during turning and vertical suspension travel, so you'll hear them during turning and on bumps. The stock ball joints do not have grease fittings (Ford considers them "greased for life"). At 150k, if yours haven't been replaced, I'd think it was high time for it.
You can sometimes get an idea of what's making the noise if you lay under the truck while a buddy bounces the front end up and down by hand. You can also inspect the ball joint boots. If they are cracked/gone, you probably lost the grease and are grinding metal on metal now.
-Jim
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thanks jim! Took to the father-in-laws after work for check up. He's mechanically inclined. We jacked her up and took a look. The lower ***** joints are bad, the rubber has cracked and the insides are rusting out. And wouldn't ya know it, the driver's side is the worse off. Hopefully I can get em done for a reasonable price. We're going to do the shocks next time I get a Saturday off. They're not critical but at 150,000 can't hurt. Also gonna do fuel filter while she's up. I'm gonna hafta bite the bullet and find someone to do the ball joints for me when I'm off Wed. He said they're in too bada shape to wait more than a day.
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13
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From: My new house
Hello,
I have a 2000 Ranger 2.5L 2WD. The shop told me that the upper front ball joints were the cause of the squeek and would cost me $650 to replace both sides. Thats a bit more by $645 then I am willing to spend! But if it comes down to a couple hundred that would be ok, if I can do it myself.
What would you recommend that I get in order to do this job? A manual? and the tools? What joints should I get, and should I do the lowers at the same time?
Please if you could give me some suggestions.
Scott
I have a 2000 Ranger 2.5L 2WD. The shop told me that the upper front ball joints were the cause of the squeek and would cost me $650 to replace both sides. Thats a bit more by $645 then I am willing to spend! But if it comes down to a couple hundred that would be ok, if I can do it myself.
What would you recommend that I get in order to do this job? A manual? and the tools? What joints should I get, and should I do the lowers at the same time?
Please if you could give me some suggestions.
Scott
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 520
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Lets see... 21mm socket and ratchet (13/16" may work), and wrench for the upper control arm bolts
15mm and 16mm sockets and/or wrenches for the ball joint pinch bolt
and a hammer.
Make sure you mark the washers at the upper control arm bolts and put them back in the same place, or you'll screw up the alignment, as they are offset.
Remove the wheel and the pinch bolt.
Hammer under the upper control arm until the ball joint pops out of the knuckle
Remove the upper control arm bolts.
Pull outward... if seized tap with hammer while pulling.
Insert new control arm. Might need a couple light whacks to get it in place.
Insert and hand tighten upper control arm bolts.
Insert ball joint into knuckle... pry or tap downward and insert and tighten pinch bolt.
Tighten control arm bolts.
Install wheel.
15mm and 16mm sockets and/or wrenches for the ball joint pinch bolt
and a hammer.
Make sure you mark the washers at the upper control arm bolts and put them back in the same place, or you'll screw up the alignment, as they are offset.
Remove the wheel and the pinch bolt.
Hammer under the upper control arm until the ball joint pops out of the knuckle
Remove the upper control arm bolts.
Pull outward... if seized tap with hammer while pulling.
Insert new control arm. Might need a couple light whacks to get it in place.
Insert and hand tighten upper control arm bolts.
Insert ball joint into knuckle... pry or tap downward and insert and tighten pinch bolt.
Tighten control arm bolts.
Install wheel.
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