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Hey guys here's the problem with my 88 5.0 manual truck. Parked it almost a year ago, went to start it, cranks no start. Check the obvious, relays, fusible links. It's been so long now that if there were codes stored they're gone due to dead battery from sitting for so long. Brings me to today. After reading the archives for a couple of days and checking this and that I'm still at a loss.
I do not have fuel pump power, it has power to only one pin on EEC relay, can jump it and get the pumps to power up for two seconds. I don't have spark, the check engine light does not come on. (I think it was real dim way back, but don't remember for sure). My wiring diagrams seem vague so any and all help will greatly be appreciated!
The only parts I have thrown at it has been a TFI, (put it on after the onset of this problem) it was running rough when it was warm out and A/C on. Checked the relays on another truck of mine. So I guess I'll start from the beginning again, wherever that is?
I do not have fuel pump power, it has power to only one pin on EEC relay, can jump it and get the pumps to power up for two seconds. I don't have spark, the check engine light does not come on. (I think it was real dim way back, but don't remember for sure). My wiring diagrams seem vague so any and all help will greatly be appreciated!
When you turn on your key your fuel pumps will only run for one second.
Have somebody listen while you turn on the key.
After the one second you have to have a PIP pulse from the Distributor (TFI) to turn on the Fuel Pumps.
To Run the Fuel Pumps ground pin 6 of the test Conn. while the key is in the on Pos.
After a truck is parked for a while there is a high likelihood that a varmint has eaten though a wire.
Here is a diagram of the system and one of the plug.
By the way, what pin on the power relay has power?
Will the power go off and on with the Ignition Switch or is it hot at all times?
Also check that smaller BK/LG wire coming off the Battery Neg. Post, it will not start with out it. That one gets a lot of people.
Thanks for the reply, when I turn the key on there is no fuel pump run, the EEC relay will click but does not power up FP relay. I can jump relay and run pumps. Not getting spark at this point. Tried grounding the # 6 pin, nothing. There is no check engine light anytime. The truck has been sitting dead because of this problem, although the critters have moved in since then. Bird nest under hood.
Thanks for the diagram, are those on this site somewhere?
The yellow wire is the one that comes on and off with key. Checked the grounds coming off battery, they are good thru connectors anyways.
Last edited by togoffrd; Oct 23, 2005 at 07:44 PM.
Thanks for the diagram, are those on this site somewhere?
YES, they my drawings in my Gallery.
Just click on Subford, then Gallery, MY POST.
Then you can scroll down and have a look see.
If you like my post you can always click on my little silver scale in the upper right of my posts.
I have a lot of problems with the connectors going in to my fuel and eec relays corroding and breaking off check the plug ins if you haven't already. I buy most of my trucks with that problem. Hard to belive I have a corrosion problem in maine!
If your EEC Power Relay clicks and you ground pin 6 of the test Connector and your fuel pumps do not come on but do when you jump the Fuel Pump Relay.
Also you have Power at All times going into the Fuel Pump Relay on the Yellow wire.
Then you have one of the following:
1. The Yellow wire coming out of the EEC Power Relay is feeding a Fuse Link Z and the other end of the fuse link is a Red wire. This Fuse Link may be open.
(This only on 87 and 88 trucks, sorry I missed it.)
2. You have a bad Fuel Pump Relay.
3. Bad wiring to the Fuel Pump Relay.
If you were also jumping past the Inertia Switch then it could be open also.
I think the Fuse Link Z is open, grip each end of it and pull, if it stretches it is bad and open.
I have a lot of problems with the connectors going in to my fuel and eec relays corroding and breaking off check the plug ins if you haven't already. I buy most of my trucks with that problem. Hard to belive I have a corrosion problem in maine!
Thanks 429f-250, they are in good shape.
Subford, I have checked all the fuse links I could find. I just put a voltage meter on the red wire that if I read my diagram right , comes from ignition switch to relays, am only getting one volt. The obvious fuse link in that wire is good right between red and blue wire that goes into EEC relay, but with that kind of voltage it seem like it could be a fuseible link. Would that control check engine light too?
Subford, I have checked all the fuse links I could find. I just put a voltage meter on the red wire that if I read my diagram right , comes from ignition switch to relays, am only getting one volt. The obvious fuse link in that wire is good right between red and blue wire that goes into EEC relay, but with that kind of voltage it seem like it could be a fuseible link. Would that control check engine light too?
The one-volt you are getting is the voltage drop across the coil of the EEC Power Relay, that means the coil is good in the relay.
I still think that Fuse Link Z is open. Fuse Link Z feeds power to the EEC pins 37, 57 and also the Fuel Pump Relay coil, all Fuel Injectors, Throttle Air Bypass and other items.
We need to get Power to the Fuel Pump Relay coil and then I think it will start.
Thanks Subford, If the Link Z is the one right there by relay it is good. I think I'll try to put a PCM from a 88 or 89 f-250 bigblock parts truck in tomorrow to see if it will at least power up that circuit.
The module on the distributor is new, no change.
When I grounded pin 6 the key was on but I'll make sure tomorrow.
Thanks all.
Last edited by togoffrd; Oct 23, 2005 at 10:47 PM.
Reason: spelling