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Is there a "trick" to getting the pulley back on the power steering pump shaft without having to hold the pulley itself? I have done the removal/installation several times in the past with the usual grunting and straining but have never had one that I could not physically hold tight enough to keep it from spinning while I pressed it on. The pulley is clean and burr-free as well as the shaft. I just can't seem to hold it tight enough to get it to move that last 1/4 inch. I even pulled it and started over just to double check things. I'm hoping there is a trick or technique out there that I never learned that could help me out.
there should be a threaded insert in the front of the pump insert a bolt with a nut threaded on it then place the pulley on the shaft place a thick washer over it then screw in the homemade installer and tighten it down it will go right on. a few shots of wd 40 works well to keep the shaft lued.
That's what I've done but when I get about a 1/4 inch from bottoming out I can't hold the pulley anymore. It starts to spin in my hands and I can't tighten it any more. I've tried WD40 and anti-sieze compound but have been whipped.
That's what I've done but when I get about a 1/4 inch from bottoming out I can't hold the pulley anymore. It starts to spin in my hands and I can't tighten it any more. I've tried WD40 and anti-sieze compound but have been whipped.
No No No No No No No.
With gashog's idea you get a longer fully threaded bolt. Thread a nut up to the head of the bolt. Put the pully on the shaft (with the pulling up facing away from the pump, your pully's not on backwards is it?). Put the washers on the bolt between the pulley and nut. The bolt should bottom out in the pump shaft without putting any pressure on the pulley.
NOW put one wrench on the bolt head and another wrench on the nut. Hold the bolt still, turn the nut. You'll press the pulley onto the shaft and never have to touch the pulley.
I swore that I tried that but maybe I didn't have the bolt bottomed out in the pulley shaft. I have done several of these in the past and I feel like I'm learning all over with this one. Thanks for the tips and the hand holding.
With gashog's idea you get a longer fully threaded bolt. Thread a nut up to the head of the bolt. Put the pully on the shaft (with the pulling up facing away from the pump, your pully's not on backwards is it?). Put the washers on the bolt between the pulley and nut. The bolt should bottom out in the pump shaft without putting any pressure on the pulley.
NOW put one wrench on the bolt head and another wrench on the nut. Hold the bolt still, turn the nut. You'll press the pulley onto the shaft and never have to touch the pulley.
that has never worked for me, it usually just wants to unscrew the bolt from the shaft.
I think I understand what EricJ is saying. The bolt that you are holding to keep the shaft "locked" will be turning in the loosening direction as you tighten the nut. Right?
I forgot to mention the best part. After getting the pulley most of the way on I went to check mounting alignment and the pump was not spinning freely so I had to remove everything and take the pump back.
This '76 F150 I picked up has a '71 302 with a modified '78 Bronco PS pump and bracket that don't quite line up right - always pulling the belt at an angle. Pulled a PS pump (for core exchange) and bracket off of a '71 Mustang w/302 and the fun began. Can't find the right hose, pulley probs, replacement pump bad, hard time finding right pump to match bracket, etc. Going back to parts yard today to pull a hose for NAPA to match.
Live and learn.
I think I understand what EricJ is saying. The bolt that you are holding to keep the shaft "locked" will be turning in the loosening direction as you tighten the nut. Right?
Yep, if it doesn't spin on the washers it will just back the bolt out. That's why I like to use a stack of washers, and SS is best if you have them because they are real smooth. I always use as many as I can fit in there and grease them up good. Some of those pulleys go on real tight and that coarse thread is a bad idea, they should have tapped the crank with a fine thread. We use a similar installation tool on the older GM A/C clutches but it has a fine thread and they go on real easy.
I have in the past used a machine stud with the coarse thread on the pulley end and a fine thread for the nut end when they were real tough.
Last edited by User 71024; Oct 22, 2005 at 10:37 AM.
Got the new pump (FINALLY!) and the pulley went right on - just like it should. Must have been something wrong with the other pump's shaft. I used the greased washers and it made a big difference.
I had to get a pressure hose made to fit my particular configuration but now the pulleys are inline. The old '71 302 Mustang pump parts worked out fine. Now I need to get the rest of the "noise" out of the pump.