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Flathead starters were known for dragging their armatures on the field coils. When you hit it with 12v, it may have put enough of a bow in the shaft to allow the armature to drag badly. It was a common trick to turn the armature down .050" to increase clearance, makes them spin faster. I would take the starter back out and try it connected to a battery on the ground (hold onto it tightly!) It should spin freely and with no noise.
If there is rust or something built up on the cylinders, I would soak the cylinders with oil before trying anything, or you'll make things worse.
I should save this info, I've typed it so often. It's very doubtful you broke the bendix spring because you jumped it with 12V. I have run a 6 volt starter on 12V daily for the past 4 years, starting it several times in the course of a day. I've only broken one bendix spring in all those starts.
Flat springs have a tendency to break anyplace there is an imperfection, irregularity or even a scratch on the surface when placed under strong load. The 12V jump only hurried up a condition that was bound to happen. Next spring you get, go over it with a piece of emery paper wrapped around various files of appropriate shapes and smooth out the sharp corners, remove edges, polish out scratches, etc. (learned this trick from shooting flintlock muzzleloading rifles for years)
I'd also agree you have ground troubles - like so many others have said.
ps. you can buy the bendix springs from Snyder's Antique Auto in New Springfield, OH. Ford used the same spring on the model A's as well as the flathead V8's.
What gauge are your battery cables? That six volt really needs a good heavy set of battery cables, like 0 or 1 aught (sp?). The cables like wal mart sells are not nearly big enough for the 6 volt amps and will get hot and melt in a hurry, and the engine won't crank very fast either.
What gauge are your battery cables? That six volt really needs a good heavy set of battery cables, like 0 or 1 aught (sp?). The cables like wal mart sells are not nearly big enough for the 6 volt amps and will get hot and melt in a hurry, and the engine won't crank very fast either.
Scott
This is very true! 6V needs twice the wire conductors as 12V to carry the same amount of current. You can get high quality larger diameter cable by the foot (you'll need to attach your own ends or they may be able to put loop ends on it for you) at welding supply houses where they sell it as arc welding cable. That's what we use for battery cables when we put the battery in the trunk on a dragracing car.
I replaced the starter solenoid and cleaned the connections a bit. The engine does turn over faster. However, now I've found that the fuel isn't traveling up to the carb. The engine starts when I use starting fluid, but then quickly dies due to no gas in the system.
Time for a fuel system overhaul. I'm starting with the tank and working my way out to the carb. Will get the tank cleaned and coated, run new fuel lines and filter, replace the fuel pump and maybe rebuild the carburater. I don't want to spend a lot of money on this overhaul because when I switch over to the SBC 350, I'm only going to use the tank and the fuel lines.
Oh, I'm also going to replace all of the cables with some welding cables and ground everything properly.
I see a HUGE problem looming, worse than the starting problem, what is the SBC junk? I never took you for a "Darksider". Egads!! I think you might have opened a whole new can of worms.
BTW, now it sounds like you have a bad fuel pump. I got one from NAPA for $36.
Pull off the fuel line at the carb and stick the end in a bottle while someone cranks it over to see if gas is getting to the carb (remove the coil wire for safety). Varnish may have stuck the needle and seat in the carb. Working backwards from the carb is the better way to diagnose fuel problems. A lot of later model carbs have a filter at the fuel inlet, if the fuel line screws into a large "nut" at the carb, after removing the fuel line, unscrew that nut and there is likely to be a sintered metal filter behind it. Replace it and see if you get fuel. If you look into the throat of the carb and work the linkage to full throttle you should see a squirt of gas shoot in. (DON'T look into the carb while cranking the engine over if you like any of the hair on your head and face!)
I see a HUGE problem looming, worse than the starting problem, what is the SBC junk? I never took you for a "Darksider". Egads!! I think you might have opened a whole new can of worms.
BTW, now it sounds like you have a bad fuel pump. I got one from NAPA for $36.
SBC is the cheapest engine to operate and service. I'd like to get a 289 or a 351, but they are harder to come by and more expensive. I can get a part for a 350 almost anywhere (even a 7-11 store ). I'd love to keep the flathead, but I need something more reliable and worry free as this truck will be a daily and long distance driver. Don't worry, my '52 will stay original.
SBC is the cheapest engine to operate and service.
Ilya
Not true - 302s are everywhere, and parts are available anywhere. They also run cheaper, break down less, and last longer. Why degrade your truck with junk?
On the practical side, ford in a ford is fine with most of us, but you lose 2/3 of your buyers when you go with something eles. Even if you are not considering selling it, that same opinion holds true when you show your truck to strangers. Most will be turned off by your engine choice even if they do not tell you.
On the practical side, ford in a ford is fine with most of us, but you lose 2/3 of your buyers when you go with something eles. Even if you are not considering selling it, that same opinion holds true when you show your truck to strangers. Most will be turned off by your engine choice even if they do not tell you.