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I'm pretty lazy, so I didn't do a search. Has anyone have anything to say about running a straight pipe on an '01 Stroker? Fuel mileage, turbo spoolup, noise? I've got 102K on mine, and the stock exhaust pipes won't wear out. With the cost of diesel higher than premium gas, I'd like to do something. I already have a SuperChips programmer installed for about the last 60K or so. Also I cut 3 good sized holes in the air intake area in front of the airbox.
yes, the straight pipe will be MUCH less restrictive. that stocker is a real killer. your mileage may actually go up, because of the less restrictive exhaust flow. plus, you will get more turbo whistle and more flutter from the exhaust. i love it!
yes, the straight pipe will be MUCH less restrictive. that stocker is a real killer. your mileage may actually go up, because of the less restrictive exhaust flow. plus, you will get more turbo whistle and more flutter from the exhaust. i love it!
Hi strokin, In addition I'm thinking of installing the Wix airfilter, 46637? The truck runs great now, all I need for pulling 12K, just really looking for a tad better mileage. Any clue as to where to get a section of pipe to replace the muffler other than the muffler shops? May as well go with stainless for that too.
Last edited by john day hardy; Oct 16, 2005 at 08:57 AM.
yes, i have that filter and LOVE it. check the gallery "my trucks"
3.5'' (stock size) is pretty rare to get a 3' section in. check the sponsors at the top of the page, and maybe you can find a muffler delete pipe. usually they sell 4'' muffler delete pipes for their 4'' systems. if you have $400 laying around, i would recommend getting a 4'' exhaust. it lowers your EGT's significantly- better for towing and longevity. i got mine from www.blackclouddiesel.com and it was $444 for 4'' turbo back aluminized steel system, with shipping and a 5'' T-304 tip included. great deal.
Try this website. The stack extensions can be used as a straight pipe. They have exhaust adapters if you want to use 4" pipe with your stock 3.5" exhaust. My son just put the 4" aluminized stack extension using two 3.5" to 4" adapters on my wife's 2001 Excursion PSD and it sounds good Btw, he now drives the Excursion and he gave his 1997 F150 to my wife to drive. This website also has an intake system similar to the Tymar & 6637.
Guys; You've been great help. Think I'll look into a 4" system turbo back. I like the FullBoar package for $350, with pyrometer plug and downpipe. What think you all? Also I'm stopping tommorow to get a Wix 46637 air filter.
I like the FullBoar package for $350, with pyrometer plug and downpipe.
Do you have a website for this "FullBoar Package"..?
IMO, I would not use the pyrometer bung in the downpipe. A lot of guys will tell you to tap the pyrometer probe pre-turbo because it is more accurate and will give temp readings faster than post-turbo.
IMO, I would not use the pyrometer bung in the downpipe. A lot of guys will tell you to tap the pyrometer probe pre-turbo because it is more accurate and will give temp readings faster than post-turbo.
i am one of them. you really dont need to worry about temperatures coming out of the turbo. the vanes are tungsten alloy, which are good for 2200*+. the thing you have to worry about are the aluminum alloy pistons. aluminum begins to melt at 1228* (i believe, its close if not). of course 1229* EGT's wont melt a piston, there are cooling methods such as oil and air that cool the piston crown down during the induction stroke. i put mine right at the end of the left manifold, close to the up-pipe connector. you can see it in my gallery- "mods to my truck".
i would recommend MBRP exhaust. i have their system and love it. here is a sound clip of what i have, although it is not my truck.
http://www.dieselperformanceparts.co...es%20Video.wmv
i have never heard of full boar, but i wouldnt get their system mainly because the hole in the downpipe if the pyrometer hole doesnt have a plug with it. the MBRP system i got was only $354. then add shipping- $40, and a tip (not needed, for show) for $50. and you get $444. i got mine from garrett at blackclouddiesel.com, a great guy to buy from.
Do you have a website for this "FullBoar Package"..?
IMO, I would not use the pyrometer bung in the downpipe. A lot of guys will tell you to tap the pyrometer probe pre-turbo because it is more accurate and will give temp readings faster than post-turbo.
ebud; At the top of the page in the shop section, you're directed to MotorHaven. They have the setup I mentioned. I don't plan on using the pyroplug they've got. I've been around big diesels most of my life, so I have an idea about them. It's these little ones I'm not sure of. Just want to be sure to not hurt my Stroker in any way shape or form. It's most likely the best pickemup I've ever owned.
. My son just put the 4" aluminized stack extension using two 3.5" to 4" adapters on my wife's 2001 Excursion PSD and it sounds good
got any pics kabcpapc or a better description. did he run it over the axle or stop and turn down just befor the axle.
i been thinking about doing something like this to my 2000 psd just undo the clamp that is just behind the cab and remove the tail pipe and muffler. Put in a 2ft stack with a turn out (turn down to highway) just before the axle (just in front if the rear tire)
Do you have to replace the downpipe to add 4" from the down pipe back and if so would it not work well.
The reason I asked is I got a quote from a local muffler shop tell me they would install a 4" exhaust on my 97 f-250, however they said they do not do downpipes on 97's ?
Do you have to replace the downpipe to add 4" from the down pipe back and if so would it not work well.
The reason I asked is I got a quote from a local muffler shop tell me they would install a 4" exhaust on my 97 f-250, however they said they do not do downpipes on 97's ?
stock or aftermarket dp do you have? with some reducers from airflo you can build it. all you will need is one. a 3.5 to 4 reducer.
It is stock, Not sure what size the stock DP is? Can you just use a reducer and run 4" back, And is this a good idea?
Thank You for your help
yes and no.
the stock dp has a flange on it and will be very hard to clamp. you will probably need to cut the studs off. and then weld the reducer on and then run your 4" out the back. and yes it will be fine to do it like this.
if your gonna do all that though i would invest in a new dp. then buy a reducer and some pipe and you will be all set. probably could have a sweet exhaust/ dp for less than 180 bucks. provided you buy the pipe from airflo or similar place and dp for around 100 bucks or so.