Well, the ol' '78 is looking pretty good today after I was able to spend some time on it. I finally got my new tail lenses in and they look very nice! I was not able to find the reverse light sockets at the parts stores, so looks like I have to modify some tail/stop ones.

Anyway, the motor is finally feeling like its broken in after 10,000 miles, its really pulling well. EXCEPT for one complaint. Since the weather has warmed up, the choke seems to want to run all the time. You can kick it down, but it comes right back up after you push the clutch in at the next stoplight. I've played and played with it and I need to know how best to disconnect it. The truck will not be used in the winter anymore, since we bought a SD, so I don't need it. I also think that you guys have finally convinced me to convert to a manual choke so if I ever need it, it will be there. I am just damn tired of fooling with this automatic one!

Thanks guys,

By the way, would a lean running engine cause the choke to run all the time? Could that be part of my choke problem?

Matt

 

Do you have the carb with the round black plastic choke housing on the pass side? It should say "leaner" and "richer" on it. Turning it radically in the leaner direction should disable the choke. Then you can see how cold natured the truck is inthe summer. Some vehicles only need a little patting of the gas to get them going without a choke in the summer. If you get a manual choke kit, they will give you a special black plastic cover that holds a mechanical lever. This lever will hook to a cable that mounts inside the cab.

The choke is controlled by heat sucked up through a piping system and or a heating element hooked to the alternator. Nothing else affects it's operation.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 26-May-02 AT 10:43 PM (EST)]>Do you have the carb with the round black plastic choke
>housing on the pass side? It should say "leaner" and
>"richer" on it. Turning it radically in the leaner
>direction should disable the choke. Then you can see how
>cold natured the truck is inthe summer. Some vehicles only
>need a little patting of the gas to get them going without a
>choke in the summer. If you get a manual choke kit, they
>will give you a special black plastic cover that holds a
>mechanical lever. This lever will hook to a cable that
>mounts inside the cab.
>
>The choke is controlled by heat sucked up through a piping
>system and or a heating element hooked to the alternator.
>Nothing else affects it's operation.

Thanks Franklin,

Yes, I have the round black housing with the rich and lean deal. I've got it adjusted towards the lean past the marks ALREADY! Worked decently during the winter. It hardly ever idles below 1000 RPM though. The truck did start up today idling at 600 RPM, which surprised me. It sounded a little lopey and I liked it!

If turning the housing any more doesn't work, could the linkage be safely disconnected, whilst not leaving the choke plate flapping in the breeze? How about removing the coil in the housing?

 

Take a small piece of wire and use it to hold the choke plate linkage in the open position. Also back off the fast idle screw. It's to the lower rear of the choke cap. Your choke is now dis-abled.

 

Weldman, you may need a new choke spring. Auto parts stores sell a kit for under $10, that includes a new spring, housing, etc.

 

Thanks guys,

I dechoked the darn thing! I wired the choke open for the time being because it was driving me nuts! I will sniff around for a new element and install it later, after I get the new reverse light switch installed....Any hints?!?! Seems to start ok, maybe better?? Will see in the next few days.

I also backed off the fast idle speed screw a bit. By the way, where is the curb idle speed adjustment screw on these carbs?

Thanks again,
Matt

 

On the driver's side > it has a screwdriver slot with about a 7/16" bolt head.

[b][i][font color=red]Dennis[/font][i][b]
[font color=red]Calgary,Alberta,Canada[/font]

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