1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Seat for an F-1

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  #16  
Old 12-11-2005, 06:11 PM
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I'm using late 90's Suburban buckets in my 49. They were a freebie and I'm a tightwad. I would prefere a 60/40 split and might look for one later. I am going to be removing the headrest from my buckets because they stick up to high and you can see them through the back window.

good luck
Bobby
 
  #17  
Old 12-12-2005, 08:16 AM
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Help! F-1 seat height

Originally Posted by 49willard
When you installed new seats what height did you set the front top surface of the seat at? I am looking at floor to top of upolstory. My original seat (slightly beat down measured 14 1/2 inches. Right now I have a set of 90 Ranger split bench seats (from my old truck) tacked in place at 16 inches since with the 3 1/2 inch tilt back I(same tiltback as my 03 split bench tiltback), it otherwise seemed to sit too low. I am 5' 10" and wanted my line of sight to be in the middle of the windshield height on my 49. Anybody?

I posted this question under another thread. The only response was from Vern-thanks Vern. I am about to final weld the seat riser frame but have been waiting to hear from others. The stock bench seat does not have the amount of tiltback ( by tiltback, I mean the slope of the seating surface relative to a level position) typically in newer vehicles. As currently mounted in the cab (16 inches up in the front) up on saw horses in my shop it sits OK, but I am concerned that the 16 inches in the front is too much. I could really use some feedback from you guys. The best info would be front seat height, tiltback (use a 2 ft level), your height and most important, are you happy with the seating position?
Thanks,
Bill
 
  #18  
Old 12-12-2005, 08:30 AM
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Bill,

I believe that the "titlback" on the seat is adjustable on our trucks. This was one of the Bonusbuilt features of the truck. There should be a screw on the side of the seat that will permit you to do this. Perhaps I misunderstood the request or perhaps it won't tilt back far enough for you. If that's the case, you may be able to shim it somehow benethat the fron seat bolts. Not sure if this is much help.
 
  #19  
Old 12-12-2005, 08:42 AM
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Carl,

I am installing 60/40 splitbech seats from my old 90 Ranger. My question concerns positioning more modern seats. I had measured the front of my original seat at 14 1/2 " above the steel floor before I took the seat out.
 
  #20  
Old 12-12-2005, 09:26 AM
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I used a 60/40 from a Mazda pickup, same as a Ranger. I made the frame and riser out of 1 inch tube. I first laid out the bottom using the original seat mounts in the floor of the cab, and tacked that rectangle together. Then I bolted the tubing to the bottom of the seats, tacked that up, and put on top of the floor frame, then started cutting different length risers. I basically fudged with it a while, sitting on the seat, changing riser length, sitting again, and once got the height and front-back spacing best suited to me, tacked the risers then removed it all for final weld. This is what I ended up with:


The frame pic is pretty crappy but you can get the jist of it I think.
 
  #21  
Old 12-12-2005, 09:45 AM
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Scott, My frame looks just about like yours, also made out of 1 inch squre tubing. I had seen an earlier post with the pix of the frame. It looks like the front edge of your seat is much lower than mine is currently and your seat bottom is much flatter than mine. Could you measure the highest fabric surface on the seat bottom from the floor and the tiltback of the seat bottom?
 
  #22  
Old 12-12-2005, 11:58 AM
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Hey Scott, have you made a drawing of your seat frame yet? Some of us are lazier than others and prefer to copy someone elses hard work.
 
  #23  
Old 12-12-2005, 12:56 PM
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Oh yeah, I forgot about the dimentions on that thing I promised how long ago? Actually, if all goes well, this weekend I plan on having a "truck assembly party", putting the body back on the chassis and getting the seats in permanently. If you can wait til then on the measurments 49Willard, I'll get them hopefully by Monday.
 
  #24  
Old 12-12-2005, 01:23 PM
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Scott,

Putting the cab back on the chassis would be a cause for celebration! I am at least 2 to 4 weeks away from that point. It looks like you have been working your cab in the same time frame as I am. I decided to do all cab work off the chassis. I've done full floor replacement, new front cab mounts, seat frame fab and fitup. AC evap fitup, electric windshield wiper mod, cowl vent rebuild and worked a significant roof dent out (from a tree falling on it ). I still haqve a dash repair to do, a little door work and work the cab into final prime. That sounds like more that 2-4 weeks when I think about it!
If you can measure the seat that will be great. I will hold off final welding up the seat riser frame. Your seats look good!
Thanks for responding.
 
  #25  
Old 12-12-2005, 02:18 PM
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Jeez, I'm a little envious of your guys being able to work on your trucks at this time of year. Mine is in mothballs until Spring...
 
  #26  
Old 12-12-2005, 02:46 PM
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I know what you mean, GNW, but I'm on a mission now. None of this winter weather permitting stuff. I just need to get the body on the frame again (and IT WILL be done this weekend, no excuses!) and roll it into the garage and will be able to button things up over the next few weeks. It's a heck of a feeling after 3 years to be this close.

I've got 2 brothers and 3 other buddies bribed with beer and BBQ so I know they'll show up even if it's a blizzard out.
 
  #27  
Old 12-12-2005, 02:51 PM
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Vern, Living in the North, You in New Hampshire and me in Maine, you really need heat in an enclosed space of some kind. Winter is too long to lose the time working on the truck. I like to play when the weather is warmer. I work in the shop in cold weather.
 
  #28  
Old 12-12-2005, 03:22 PM
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The price of natural gas has been so high just to heat the house, who can afford to heat the work area also.
 
  #29  
Old 12-13-2005, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 51ford fan
The price of natural gas has been so high just to heat the house, who can afford to heat the work area also.
Amen to that! I was already paying an arm. I can't afford an arm AND a leg.

Vern
 
  #30  
Old 12-14-2005, 08:57 PM
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seat mods

av8ford;

I am currently in the process of modifying the original seat frame from my 50 using the frame and sub'ing the springs with flat style from Dodge Caravan bench. I will have to add a couple springs to the outer portion of seat but overall the spring length is perfect size. I replaced the back portion as well which should give me more clearance between column and seat. I am planning in using leather from tanned elk hide; looking forward to the end result. Will post pictures of progress in the New Year,

Tom
 


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