Another amazing Glow Plug Problem
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 933
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From: Québec
You might have a leaking injector. Check the lines to see if one is wet. When I start mine in the cold, I depress the pedal so the fast idle kick in, let go the pedal, than start. I find that keeping the foot 1/2 or full pedal during cranking will take longer to start. I also wait until GP's starts klicking, you can see the amps. needle flicking, it gives that little more time for the chambers to warm up. Two good batteries is also important, for these engine to start, it needs to crank to a sufficient RPM otherwise pressure does not rise quick enough and temperature will not warm enough to make the fuel to fire up.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 376
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I had to put new brushes in my starter and replace the cable from the battery to the starter with #2 welding cable when I fist got it and had same problem....engine wasnt turning fast enough with starter....also....go to a local INTERNATIONAL dealer and see the service dept...they have a great trouble shooting sheet that goes step by step what to check...its on a pad like loose leaf paper that the guy can tear off and give you....its about 11"x17" in size....If I remember right...I think youre supposed to have 10 volts at glow plugs with wait cycle in progress...ck it out at IHC though....good luck
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 577
Likes: 0
From: Peoria IL
I have a glow plug problem. My batteries are good and the starter was replaced not too long ago. IT cranks at 300 rpm. I know what it sounds like if my engine was cranking too slow to start. My injectors are new and do not leak. I dont see how that affects starting anyway. I replaced the gp controller/solenoid about 10 months ago and it wasnt cheap. Its only putting out 8 volts.
My plan is too rip that $200 solenoid apart and see if the contacts are burnt like they get on the points system of an old gasser. If that dont fix it I will probably say to hell with it and make my own glow plug system out of a solenoid from a tractor. I dont see why I couldnt replace the solenoid with one from a tractor. There has to be the same basic wires for the Ford solenoid. The wires from the controller activate the solenoid. The wire from the battery comes in, the controller throws power to the solenoid and power goes out to the gps. Theres just that white wire but I dont know what its for, I will probably just tape it up and pretend it was never there.
By saving the controller I could still have afterglow and not have to run another switch in my cab.
So what im saying is that I dont see why I couldnt replace the light duty expensive ford solenoid with a $14 heavy duty starter solenoid from the local auto store and still do the same thing only more reliably.
My plan is too rip that $200 solenoid apart and see if the contacts are burnt like they get on the points system of an old gasser. If that dont fix it I will probably say to hell with it and make my own glow plug system out of a solenoid from a tractor. I dont see why I couldnt replace the solenoid with one from a tractor. There has to be the same basic wires for the Ford solenoid. The wires from the controller activate the solenoid. The wire from the battery comes in, the controller throws power to the solenoid and power goes out to the gps. Theres just that white wire but I dont know what its for, I will probably just tape it up and pretend it was never there.
By saving the controller I could still have afterglow and not have to run another switch in my cab.
So what im saying is that I dont see why I couldnt replace the light duty expensive ford solenoid with a $14 heavy duty starter solenoid from the local auto store and still do the same thing only more reliably.
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