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I found a source for body solder at around $4.00 a pound. It is a small foundry in Arizona, and will ship up to 15 pounds for $5. They only make a small amount each month with this mix (70/30), so an early order might be smart. Email me and I will send you the address.
I also ordered the wooden paddles you use for laying it on from Eastwood - $6 or $7 each.
I decided to use lead because I remember from my youth that you can cover lots of sins with it. You can also make up a body line, and if you do not like it can wipe it out just by heating the panel, saving the lead. In other words, you get lots of tries to acheave the look you were after.
There are health issues, but they are minor if you do not use power grinders with it. The old tried and true body files work best, and do not have a cloud of lead particles in the air. I guess I would be careful if I had any kids around that might pick up the filings from the floor.
If you need to take very much off you just heat it and use your paddles to skim some, saving it for the next time.
I also think it to be a better filler in places where water is abt to collect - it helps protect the body from rust. I always worry that bondo will soak up the moisture and add to the rust problems.
yes, I forgot to add that. I bought both the butter and the tallow offered by Eastman. I just couldn't bring myself to pay their price for a 1/4 pound stick of lead.
***** B.....I think your going to have fun with this. I watched them do this at work for a long time before I tried it myself. I also thought it was an art done by masters until I tried it. As far as saving any lead thats paddled off, I think you'll find it ends up on the floor, then into the trash can. Don't worry, after just a little practice there will very little waste. Good luck.
________________
XFM...
'53 F100
You also forgot talent. If you haven't done it before it's not that easy. I have tried to use lead a few times and have given up. I knew an old time body man who leaded almost everything, even the thin tin on modern cars, up to the time he retired about ten years ago. He made it look so damn easy, heat the metal a little, tin it and start slapping the lead on. Yeah, right, you have to get the metals just to the right heat or it won't stick or it falls off. After he globbed the lead on he would take his paddle and spread it out into the shape he wanted and grind it to the final shape. He always wore a dust mask and safety glasses (he probably should have been wearing a respirator). He would thin epoxy prime and apply a thin layer of bondo to fill the slight imperfections left. He was a real artist when it came to lead work. I saw him lay 10 pounds of lead in a side of '70 GTO to make the rear quarter mate up to the door because previous body work was so bad and he had to make it look good.
***** B......I forgot to say, I have a friend that worked in the body shop at Ford for many years. He slung lead 10 hours a day, six days a week. All those guys had to have a blood test several times a year to check the lead level in their blood. If they were high they moved them somewhere else until the level came down. My buddy said his usually came down in about a month. He's 60 now and doing fine. My point is, you should'nt have any lead related health problems doing this as a hobby. That said, use a mask and glasses, you can't be to careful.....P.S. later on Ford quit using lead and went to a solder that didn't have lead....XFM
WillyB, Thanks for this thread. I have started working on my rear fenders and found that they had lead repairs in several spots. Your words of caution on power tools and lead particles have saved me a possible health issue.
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