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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 12:22 AM
  #16  
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Ivan: I'm not sure of the brand name I'll take some pics and get some part numbers from them.

Kubota: I'm doing a shackle flip on the rear and I have a 2" block back there now. The flip is to just get me through the winter fun until I have more time to lift it with some springs.

I forgot all about that explination but I think I'll be ok with some shims and the little 6" lift.

Man I can't get that damn pitman arm off. It's been on there for 27 years but it's way more stubborn than I thought it would be. Also all the pitman pullers I found were not big enough to fit around my pitman arm. So I'm using a regular two arm 5 ton puller. There's got to be a place I can buy a nice pitman arm puller. Sears, Napa, and Autozone all had the same little puller. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all the help guys I'll make sure to make a nice big post with pictures and video the first time I get her back on the trails/mud.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 01:35 AM
  #17  
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If you have a torch heat the pitman arm in two spots, on opposite sides of the sector shaft. It'll practically fall off. You don't need to get them cherry hot or anything, just warm them up good so it expands.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 12:20 AM
  #18  
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Cool thanks for the tip I took Friday and Monday off so I can work for four days straight on getting my truck back up and running. I was looking at your pics Ivan and I was wondering if I just flip my rear shackle will my bed still fit on? We took my bed off tonight so I can blast the frame this weekend and put a fresh undercoating on it. I just wanna make sure the bed goes back on after I flip the mount on the rear springs. The rear end already has shims in it I'm hoping I won't have to get new shims just by doing the flip.

thanks again
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 12:53 AM
  #19  
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No, once you do the shackle flip you have to remove your bed.





Yeah, it clears the bed just fine dude. You shouldn't need to adjust pinion angle. I've found that the shackle flip angles the pinion up slightly anyway and seems to compensate for the needed chance in pinion angle.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 09:18 AM
  #20  
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HA HA don't make fun of the noob dude

OK one last question. My Dad and I both know how to weld it's just been awhile what do you suggest I get to do basic mount fabrication? Like a light duty MIG welder?

Originally Posted by ivanribic
No, once you do the shackle flip you have to remove your bed.


Yeah, it clears the bed just fine dude. You shouldn't need to adjust pinion angle. I've found that the shackle flip angles the pinion up slightly anyway and seems to compensate for the needed chance in pinion angle.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 10:50 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by gyger1
OK one last question. My Dad and I both know how to weld it's just been awhile what do you suggest I get to do basic mount fabrication? Like a light duty MIG welder?
Um, are you joking or being serious?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 11:26 AM
  #22  
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Unfortunately I'm serious my Dad knows more about this than I do I just thought I'd ask. Was that a really stupid question?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 12:07 PM
  #23  
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No, not a stupid question at all, it just sounded like something sarcastic that we might say. Don't use a light duty mig on ANY of your suspension stuff. You'll really want to be using a stick and make sure it's a 220 volt welder welder at that. I used MIG on mine but I've also got a 200 amp industrial MIG welder. A light duty MIG will give you a really pretty looking bead that sits on the top of your material and will promptly snap off because you don't have enough amperage to get good penetration. Most MIG welders are great for light guage stuff but should never be used for thick materials like hangers or frames or any of that.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 12:25 PM
  #24  
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Cool thanks for the info once again.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 12:35 PM
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Any time. And don't be embarassed to ask questions even if we give you smart arsed answers. We'll make sure you get it done right.
 
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