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Replacing radius arm bolts - threaded length critical?
Gentlemen,
As you may read in other threads, the threaded bolt that extends from one of the front-axle radius arms broke on me. Impossible to locate new ones, I'm going to have the old stub drilled out and have a new bolt welded back in.
I got a pair of grade 8 bolts from my local truck shop, identical dimeter and thread. The length of the bolt from tip to bottom of teh head (which will be cut off) is identical to the bolt that's in there now. BUT, the threads on the new bolt go down about 3/8" further on the shaft than on the original.
If I have it re-installed to the same depth as the old one, there will be more thread inside the bushings than originally. Now, someone before me have replaced the bushings on one side with new urethane ones which were considerably thicker than the original rubber ones, so the nut didn't bottom out on that arm - that is, there were a few threads inside the bushing.
So, my questin - does anyone have experience with this kind of thing and can say whether extra threads inside the bushings is a problem or not. My concern is that they'll chew itup from the inside.
If so, then I'll have to have the machine shop make the bolts from scratch.
I remember you telling us about the broken radius arm bolt end. I'm surprised you couldn't find new ones? Wouldn't getting a good used one from a junkyard be quicker and more cost effective than the route you are going? If you do go with that grade 8 bolt, and the urethane bushings did not come with one, I'd put in a sacrificial hollow sleeve bushing so that the threads would tear up the soft metal bushing before tearing up the surrounding urethane bushing.
On another note, I wonder if the use of urethane bushings would contribute to the premature failure and breakage of suspension parts since it is a harder material that broadcasts the jarring shocks? Did you ever find out why that bolt broke?
Nope, couldn't find new ones. Ford dealer in Canada did a search, no luck. Called a U.S. dealer, same thing, a search with no results. They stopped making them 4 years ago.
Froma wrecker - maybe, but in a nother thread someone with a yard mentioned having to go through 4 of them to find one good one - and I need two. So, quicker, highly doubtful, if possible at all.
What causes the failure is that wate and salt get trapped inside the bushing and eat away the bolt. The one that wasn't broekn, when I took it off, the 7/8" bolt was eroded down to 3/8". They changed form in 1980, so no hope of finding a younger one that fits either.
Brand new, they were $150 each. I dropped them off at the machine shop today, and they estimate under $200 for re-doing both. The rest of the steel of the arm is good as new. So I'll be getting two reconditioned radius arms for just over the price of one new one.
The nut is actually threaded on until it bottoms out. So YES the thread length is critical. Unfortunately that adds to the stress at that point which can induce stress corrosion cracking.
Well, I'm not likely to get my machine shop to custom mill a shouldered bolt.
Is there any reason it sounds completely unreasonable to not have the shoulder aqnd have the nut tighten the washer down onto the new urethane bushings? I'll adda lock-nut to keep it in place.
someone else on FTE just put urethane bushings on his arms, when he did he couldnt bottom the nut out because the urethane bushing was too hard to smash down....i think someone wrote that the torque rating was 70-80 ft lbs.....ill check into it......
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