Dome Light Problem
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Dome Light Problem
Hello,
This may sound obvious but...
My dome light does not come on when the drivers door is opened. All other doors are OK. I rewired the connection and replaced the switch with a used one. The switch and connectors are fine. Before I go deeper under the dash I wanted to see if there were any other thoughts on the subject.
The circuit should be simple, right. Open and closed. There are three wires on the front doors (from memory they are green/yellow, blue/black and red) and two for the rear doors (no red). Should there be continuity between two of these pairs? (or more than two pairs etc etc).
Any input or thoughts would be welcomed before I go looking for a short under the dash. I figured a short would blow the fuse. The fuse was gone when I started the project (when I bought the truck) but the replacement is still intact.
This may sound obvious but...
My dome light does not come on when the drivers door is opened. All other doors are OK. I rewired the connection and replaced the switch with a used one. The switch and connectors are fine. Before I go deeper under the dash I wanted to see if there were any other thoughts on the subject.
The circuit should be simple, right. Open and closed. There are three wires on the front doors (from memory they are green/yellow, blue/black and red) and two for the rear doors (no red). Should there be continuity between two of these pairs? (or more than two pairs etc etc).
Any input or thoughts would be welcomed before I go looking for a short under the dash. I figured a short would blow the fuse. The fuse was gone when I started the project (when I bought the truck) but the replacement is still intact.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Pauline, South Carolina
You don't mention what year, but if it's 2000 or earlier you can probably find a schematic at autozone.com. Also, it could be a broken wire where it bends when the door is opened and closed.
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Thanks for the response. Here is some new information.
I checked the wiring on the passenger side and the grn/yel carries the voltage which was normal (12 volts). The suspect side (drivers) showed a voltage of 2.2. The wiring seems secure at least as far as I can trace. Once it goes into the body of the truck it's near impossible to follow. I can't see how I'm going to find where the voltage drop is occuring.
I have Haynes and Chilton (which I believe Autozone draws info from) and they both give me ziltch.
Truck is a 1994 XLT. The third wire on drivers side is red/white and I still have no idea what it's purpose is (not present on the other three door switches).
I checked the wiring on the passenger side and the grn/yel carries the voltage which was normal (12 volts). The suspect side (drivers) showed a voltage of 2.2. The wiring seems secure at least as far as I can trace. Once it goes into the body of the truck it's near impossible to follow. I can't see how I'm going to find where the voltage drop is occuring.
I have Haynes and Chilton (which I believe Autozone draws info from) and they both give me ziltch.
Truck is a 1994 XLT. The third wire on drivers side is red/white and I still have no idea what it's purpose is (not present on the other three door switches).
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 168
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From: Rochester
Hi Gil. I had that problem on my '94 XLT. Here's what my problem was:
Pull up the scuff plate at the left REAR door. Below that is the wiring harness. You should see a splice with a red wire and 5 or so Green/yellows. Redo that splice. You may need to get another piece of wire to join all 6 wires together. Mine started the same way yours sounds, eventually more than the drivers door will go out. Hope this helps!
John in Rochester NY....
Pull up the scuff plate at the left REAR door. Below that is the wiring harness. You should see a splice with a red wire and 5 or so Green/yellows. Redo that splice. You may need to get another piece of wire to join all 6 wires together. Mine started the same way yours sounds, eventually more than the drivers door will go out. Hope this helps!
John in Rochester NY....
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John,
Thanks for the tip. I haven't found this elusive bundle yet but I'm sure you are correct. I did find a bundle of 9 blue/black wires in the same area (under the drivers side rear seat). I'm certain I'll find the other grouping. I assume the 9 wires are 4 door switch curcuits, 2 dome lights (front and rear), 2 door lights (small) and a ground to the frame?
I know near zero about automotive circuits but I would have to guess that the bundle with the red wire attaching to the grn/yel group is the battery power (red) and I expect 5 or 6 grn/yel wires to lead away carrying current through the door circuits. The bundle I am re-doing (blk/blue) would likely be the grounding wires (?) and I assume the red/white on the drivers door circuit goes to the fuse box.
I'm hoping that if I find the elusive bundle and rewire it will provide the proper voltage to the drivers door circuit.
Any more detailed information you have on the location and description of the B+ bundle would help (Is it a shrink tube bundle like the blk/blue? Is it in an actual plastic harness? Would it be up behind the rear panel or at floor level?)
Thanks again,
Gil
Thanks for the tip. I haven't found this elusive bundle yet but I'm sure you are correct. I did find a bundle of 9 blue/black wires in the same area (under the drivers side rear seat). I'm certain I'll find the other grouping. I assume the 9 wires are 4 door switch curcuits, 2 dome lights (front and rear), 2 door lights (small) and a ground to the frame?
I know near zero about automotive circuits but I would have to guess that the bundle with the red wire attaching to the grn/yel group is the battery power (red) and I expect 5 or 6 grn/yel wires to lead away carrying current through the door circuits. The bundle I am re-doing (blk/blue) would likely be the grounding wires (?) and I assume the red/white on the drivers door circuit goes to the fuse box.
I'm hoping that if I find the elusive bundle and rewire it will provide the proper voltage to the drivers door circuit.
Any more detailed information you have on the location and description of the B+ bundle would help (Is it a shrink tube bundle like the blk/blue? Is it in an actual plastic harness? Would it be up behind the rear panel or at floor level?)
Thanks again,
Gil
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 168
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From: Rochester
Gil, it's at floor level. On mine there was a channel these wires ran through - you could see it once the scuff plate was removed (as I remember the scuff plate may actually screw into it.) My "channel" was wet and rotted so I pitched it. That bundle is inside that, and I think it's taped up. You're right, the red is the "hot" wire of the bunch. Hope this helps and gets you out of the dark (couldn't resist that, no pun intended!) Good luck!
John in Rochester NY.
John in Rochester NY.
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I found the wiring bundle. It's done. It works.
When I had trouble with my radio I found a short under the REAR panel where the amp is located. I fixed my front door dome light issue by looking under the REAR kick-plate. I had an electronic 4X4 issue that I traced to the switching unit in the REAR panel.
If my cigarette lighter or dash lights fail I may as well pull out the rear panels and just start there.
This is why the FTE is so valuable. It would have took me ages to get to that bundle. You probably saved me hours of chasing wires.
Thanks.
When I had trouble with my radio I found a short under the REAR panel where the amp is located. I fixed my front door dome light issue by looking under the REAR kick-plate. I had an electronic 4X4 issue that I traced to the switching unit in the REAR panel.
If my cigarette lighter or dash lights fail I may as well pull out the rear panels and just start there.
This is why the FTE is so valuable. It would have took me ages to get to that bundle. You probably saved me hours of chasing wires.
Thanks.
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From: Phoenix
Gil - that 4x4 electrical issue - sometimes hitting the reset on the bottom of the controller you found resets it and it works again. Sometimes the motor assembly needs to be taken apart and cleaned. I can't remember if you have done this yet or not. I can send you a link for the instructions.
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I did get this job done this summer. If you own an Explorer it's like a right of passage to rebuild your 4X4 motor. It seems every one of them craps out at some time or other.
I used the information on:
http://draco.acs.uci.edu/explorer/
Some good tips on this site.
I used the information on:
http://draco.acs.uci.edu/explorer/
Some good tips on this site.
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