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It would require that I cut a passage through the cargo box next to the fuel tank and I didn't feel like going through all that work again when I just installed the fuel tank.
johnny8, all I have towed so far was my 3000# utility trailer, but with even the 40hp it would flutter something awful, and I kicked it up to 60hp and still nothin'. I would highly recommend this wheel. It really sounds awesome too, the whine is almost a lower pitch than the stocker, but it sounds more powerful and I feel like I have more torque. I dont yet have the gauges so I cant report on any numbers. They are coming though, I swear!!
No pics. But it's really easy. The hardest part is getting at the bottom bolts of the intake housing. You need a 1/4" drive socket set or a 3/8 breaker bar to fit. The ratchet head of a 3/8 drive is too big to fit. Other than that it's a breeze. Yes you need to disconnect the down pipe, but it just pushes down and hangs there on the exhaust hangers. If you need more room just take the two bolts out that join the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust and it will lay out of your way.
two questions:
1) intake housing..? what is this part and what has to come off..? i thought you could get to the wheel by just taking off the intake tubes...
2) is the down pipe held in place with bolts or spring bolts...? do you loosen it so it will just push down, and if so, could you put your screwdriver up in and wedge it in place to wedge the exhaust wheel or would you damage something, i don't think i'll have anyone to help me with this project... one other thing, wedging the exhaust side wheel doesn't hurt anything does it..?
johnny8, all I have towed so far was my 3000# utility trailer, but with even the 40hp it would flutter something awful, and I kicked it up to 60hp and still nothin'. I would highly recommend this wheel. It really sounds awesome too, the whine is almost a lower pitch than the stocker, but it sounds more powerful and I feel like I have more torque. I dont yet have the gauges so I cant report on any numbers. They are coming though, I swear!!
that is really encouraging...! i can tow my utility trailer with about the same weight on the 60hp tune with the setup i have now and no really problems... it is only when i have the 5ver hooked up that i run into issues... i will get a chance to run the 5ver up some hills out on the highway at speed this weekend... gonna use the 40hp tune... we'll see how it goes, but, i am PLANNING on putting that wheel in next spring...! it's a damn shame that ford put that piece of junk in my mule...!
It would require that I cut a passage through the cargo box next to the fuel tank and I didn't feel like going through all that work again when I just installed the fuel tank.
1) intake housing..? what is this part and what has to come off..? i thought you could get to the wheel by just taking off the intake tubes...
2) is the down pipe held in place with bolts or spring bolts...? do you loosen it so it will just push down, and if so, could you put your screwdriver up in and wedge it in place to wedge the exhaust wheel or would you damage something, i don't think i'll have anyone to help me with this project... one other thing, wedging the exhaust side wheel doesn't hurt anything does it..?
1) If you look at the intake side of the turbo, you'll see what appears to be similar to a nautilus shell held down by several small bolts. That's the part that has to come off. It's the part that the Y pipe attaches to as well as the intake boot.
2) Take a medium large screwdriver and wrap it with enough tape to pad it, leaving it small enough to easily fit between the exhast vanes. Gently insert it past the EBPV and into the shoulder area of the exhaust wheel. Not out in the thin ends of the wheel, the vanes are thicker and stronger at thier base. Use hand tools only to loosen the intake wheel now that you have the turbo locked in place. It is right hand threads so it's standard fare, lefty loosey righty tighty.
Once you get it back together, enjoy that big rig whistle! You all know what mine sounds like, yours should be the same.
ok kwik, i'm starting to visualize the process... you have remove the intake and loosen up the hookup on the y-pipe, to get the housing off... yes..? and pulling the down pipe lets you get the padded screwdriver in on the other side of the turbo... you can't access that side from up top... 1/4" standard depth socket set and a duct taped screw driver is pretty much all you need...? any estimate on doing the job by yourself and taking your time to do it...? man, i really need to do this mod..!
ok kwik, i'm starting to visualize the process... you have remove the intake and loosen up the hookup on the y-pipe, to get the housing off... yes..? and pulling the down pipe lets you get the padded screwdriver in on the other side of the turbo... you can't access that side from up top... 1/4" standard depth socket set and a duct taped screw driver is pretty much all you need...? any estimate on doing the job by yourself and taking your time to do it...? man, i really need to do this mod..!
I did the whole job from the top of the engine. It's a LOT easier to just remove the Y pipe from the engine and get it out of the way. Just be careful to reclamp the orange boots straight. If the clamps are crooked at all they will slide up the boot and off, making a scary sounding boost leak. (Personal experience )
BTW here's a picture of the whole rig that I was driving when I made the recording.
At the truck scale in Oregon it weighed
5300 lb front axle
8150 lb rear axle
10,550 trailer wheels.
24,000 total weight.
OH BABY!!! That sound sweeeet! Like a jet at take off! Did you notice a bnig differance after it was installed in performance. I want to know if it's worth it or not. Thanks Lancer
Worth it to me. Completly eliminated the stall that I was having before I installed the WW.
ok kwik, i'm starting to visualize the process... you have remove the intake and loosen up the hookup on the y-pipe, to get the housing off... yes..? and pulling the down pipe lets you get the padded screwdriver in on the other side of the turbo... you can't access that side from up top... 1/4" standard depth socket set and a duct taped screw driver is pretty much all you need...? any estimate on doing the job by yourself and taking your time to do it...? man, i really need to do this mod..!
johnny8 I used blackclouds wheel and directions look there. Like I said you will not do every thing they say to do. ( BIG P.S. --- THE CLIP ON THE WASTGATE ARM BE SURE NOT TO LOSE IT VERY SMALL)!!!!!!!!!
Kwik
You ought to be getting a kick back on this thread. Looks like a lot of folks are getting brand new on the Wicked Wheel. I would love to post a sound wave with the sound of mine, but I can't figure out how with the tools that I have. They do sound good though. The sound waves I have heard on other things on the internet really don't compare to the actual sound. Your rig looks great. I saw a truck the other day around my town that actually made me think of you. I had to look it over and check the tag to make sure it wasn't.
Fordafied the way that I captured the sound was to get a standard audio cable from Radio Shack and patch the audio output from the video camera to the "line in" on my computer sound card. I used Sound Forge, an excellent computer program that someone gave me years ago to make the recording on the computer from there. You could probably find a freeware program in the internet for sound capture.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.