tonneau cover
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
Dave -
It is not weathertight. Because of the truck's rake, it drains via the side support angles to the front of the bed. There are drain holes up there.
One modification that would make it weathertight would be to use a J-angle on the bed and have a lip from the tonneau slip into the open area of the J. The J-angles could be drained out thru the front panel with tubes.
It is not weathertight. Because of the truck's rake, it drains via the side support angles to the front of the bed. There are drain holes up there.
One modification that would make it weathertight would be to use a J-angle on the bed and have a lip from the tonneau slip into the open area of the J. The J-angles could be drained out thru the front panel with tubes.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 39
From: Minnesota
Randy this has been brought up before what size square tube did you not recommend using? The reason I am asking is I have a top from an old enclosed snowmobile trailer. I took the top off and made it into a 7 x 9 open trailer with wood side rails. Now I have some square steeel tubing and aluminum used for the skin sitting in my yard. I am trying to figure out a good use for the metal beside scrapping it for the $ of the weight.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
Chris -
I really overbuilt my tonneau. I can walk on the top if it! If you want yours that stout, then use 1" square tube for the frame and skin both sides (.090 alum on top and .040 on bottom). It will be a tank.
If, on the other hand, you want to go lighter but stiff enough, I would use 3/4" thinwall tube for the frame and skin it with either .030 steel or .060 alum on the top only.
Do not go to 1/2" tube. It is too light and buckled on a buddy's tonneau when he tried to close it against the gas lift pressure.
I really overbuilt my tonneau. I can walk on the top if it! If you want yours that stout, then use 1" square tube for the frame and skin both sides (.090 alum on top and .040 on bottom). It will be a tank.
If, on the other hand, you want to go lighter but stiff enough, I would use 3/4" thinwall tube for the frame and skin it with either .030 steel or .060 alum on the top only.
Do not go to 1/2" tube. It is too light and buckled on a buddy's tonneau when he tried to close it against the gas lift pressure.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 39
From: Minnesota
RANDY
I don't know what size tube I have will have to measure. Did it buckle right at the gas shock pivot point? I would think 1/2" square tubing would be pretty strong? Maybe reinforce the section where gas shock mounts? Also do you think a person could move the shock closer to the tailgate and use a lighter and longer shock?
I don't know what size tube I have will have to measure. Did it buckle right at the gas shock pivot point? I would think 1/2" square tubing would be pretty strong? Maybe reinforce the section where gas shock mounts? Also do you think a person could move the shock closer to the tailgate and use a lighter and longer shock?
Originally Posted by Randy Jack
Chris -
I really overbuilt my tonneau. I can walk on the top if it! If you want yours that stout, then use 1" square tube for the frame and skin both sides (.090 alum on top and .040 on bottom). It will be a tank.
If, on the other hand, you want to go lighter but stiff enough, I would use 3/4" thinwall tube for the frame and skin it with either .030 steel or .060 alum on the top only.
Do not go to 1/2" tube. It is too light and buckled on a buddy's tonneau when he tried to close it against the gas lift pressure.
I really overbuilt my tonneau. I can walk on the top if it! If you want yours that stout, then use 1" square tube for the frame and skin both sides (.090 alum on top and .040 on bottom). It will be a tank.
If, on the other hand, you want to go lighter but stiff enough, I would use 3/4" thinwall tube for the frame and skin it with either .030 steel or .060 alum on the top only.
Do not go to 1/2" tube. It is too light and buckled on a buddy's tonneau when he tried to close it against the gas lift pressure.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
Chris -
Yes, it buckled at the shock mount. Yes to both of the other questions. The 1/2" tube is probably plenty for the general structure stiffness. Reinforcing it would work.
I looked at the gas shocks more to the rear also. When I mocked it up, I didn't like the access at all. They were in the way. Also, I could find anything long enough to raise the tonneau to a workable height.
Yes, it buckled at the shock mount. Yes to both of the other questions. The 1/2" tube is probably plenty for the general structure stiffness. Reinforcing it would work.
I looked at the gas shocks more to the rear also. When I mocked it up, I didn't like the access at all. They were in the way. Also, I could find anything long enough to raise the tonneau to a workable height.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 39
From: Minnesota
Makes since on moving the shocks back that they may get in the way. Didn't really think about it. I would be trying to hide the insde of my bed anyway not sure I need it to stay up on its own. Might just use a good old hood prop.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 9
From: Thornton, Colorado
I am planning to use the rails from an Extang cloth tonneau, and then have an Uplostry guy in Denver make the cloth part fit. I don't know if anyone could make something this for a stepside, but it is worth looking at.
Broomfieldbum
Broomfieldbum
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