V10 With No Power
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V10 With No Power
Ever since I got the truck back from a mechanic who had to remove a head because the exhaust studs broke off in the head to fix the leak that truck has had no power. When I am pulling our trailer up hill the pedal goes to the floor, the truck doesnt shift in the right places and is pops, pings and whatnot and can bairly make it up the hill. I send it to the dealership and they said they put it on the computer but nothing came up and it still sucks for power. Any Ideas cus this is driving me nuts. Thanks
HotRod
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It might not have much to do with your problem, but then again, it might be exactly the same thing:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...v10+spark+plug
You have to get a qualified person to check the computer and how it's dealing with things.
The timing could be way off, retarded, because the computer can't figure out where the crankshaft is in relation to timing.
Or, the cam timing is way off.
Is it generally sucky for power, or does it seem to "wobble" or miss a slight bit?
As I pointed out in the above thread, LEAN on the mechanic. The mechanic should fix it for NO CHARGE because it was fine before, and not after.
Funny thing is, almost everyone who has had exhaust manifold studs break says they can be removed with vise-grips - when they break, they break off at the nut, so when you get the manifold off, the broken studs are sticking out enough to get a pair of vise-grips on it and back them out.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...v10+spark+plug
You have to get a qualified person to check the computer and how it's dealing with things.
The timing could be way off, retarded, because the computer can't figure out where the crankshaft is in relation to timing.
Or, the cam timing is way off.
Is it generally sucky for power, or does it seem to "wobble" or miss a slight bit?
As I pointed out in the above thread, LEAN on the mechanic. The mechanic should fix it for NO CHARGE because it was fine before, and not after.
Funny thing is, almost everyone who has had exhaust manifold studs break says they can be removed with vise-grips - when they break, they break off at the nut, so when you get the manifold off, the broken studs are sticking out enough to get a pair of vise-grips on it and back them out.
Post Fiend
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From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by krewat
Funny thing is, almost everyone who has had exhaust manifold studs break says they can be removed with vise-grips - when they break, they break off at the nut, so when you get the manifold off, the broken studs are sticking out enough to get a pair of vise-grips on it and back them out.
Post Fiend
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From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by V10KLZZ71S
Sounds like cam timing.
What's going on?
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If the shift points are all "out of whack", that's more than just cam timing.
Bring it to a shop that can hook up to the computer and see what's going wrong.
Problem is, only a GOOD dealer would have someone who could do the job, probably.
Almost sounds like the crank/cam sensor isn't pickup up the right signal.
Either that, or the mechanic left a sensor disconnected.
Bring it to a shop that can hook up to the computer and see what's going wrong.
Problem is, only a GOOD dealer would have someone who could do the job, probably.
Almost sounds like the crank/cam sensor isn't pickup up the right signal.
Either that, or the mechanic left a sensor disconnected.
Fleet Mechanic
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From: Gretna ,LA.
The cam sensor tells the pcm when to fire and such off of the sensor which is on the drivers side bank.You need special tools for holding the cams in the right place because of spring pressure from some of the valves being open at the spot of lining up the timing marks, this is where a lot of mistakes are made.
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Well we put it on the computer at the garage I work at now and the first thing that came up was the Mass Air Flow sensor was bad so we took it for a ride without it and it was tons better but not perfect so we ordered one up but it wont be here for 3 days.
HotRod
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