another question
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,111
Likes: 0
From: Turlock CA
another question
I installed LED 1157 replacement bulbs this weekend and when doing so I found the brass in the lamp socket to be split in several places all the way around the socket. The bulbs were lose in the socket and so are the new ones.
Do I need to replace the complete assembly or can you just install new sockets?
jd
Do I need to replace the complete assembly or can you just install new sockets?
jd
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 1
From: East Central Florida
jd
I've haven't seen sockets small enough to be easy replacements for OEM sockets in years. But on HELP Racks @ A-Parts Stores or at NAPA etc. you can buy replacement sockets with "tines" on them. They're too large to fit, but you can cut part with tines off, pull guts out & MIG, TIG or braze sockets to an OEM Housing.
Ya gotta pull guts & wires out or you'll burn them up when you weld/ braze. If your OEM contacts are good you can use your OEM wires keeping OEM connectors. Also there are places where you can buy those brass contacts on the ends of the wires & then solder them to your OEM wires as another option, or to R&R bad contacts in an otherwise good light [which is what they are made for].
FWIW replacement sockets being sold are not brass they're usually Zichrome coated or anodized steel. Also, a problem with this method is once welded or brazed they are virtually an integral part of lamp assy making further replacement more complicated.
You can also find sockets in Salvage Yards. I usually look in damaged or broken tail and parking lamps and offer the guy a buck or two if I think the will work. They usually take the $$ since the lights aren't worth anything is they're wrecked. After the later 70s they began changing the design and making sockets replaceable, but they have the tines like those on the "HELP Racks". . . .
FPb
I've haven't seen sockets small enough to be easy replacements for OEM sockets in years. But on HELP Racks @ A-Parts Stores or at NAPA etc. you can buy replacement sockets with "tines" on them. They're too large to fit, but you can cut part with tines off, pull guts out & MIG, TIG or braze sockets to an OEM Housing.
Ya gotta pull guts & wires out or you'll burn them up when you weld/ braze. If your OEM contacts are good you can use your OEM wires keeping OEM connectors. Also there are places where you can buy those brass contacts on the ends of the wires & then solder them to your OEM wires as another option, or to R&R bad contacts in an otherwise good light [which is what they are made for].
FWIW replacement sockets being sold are not brass they're usually Zichrome coated or anodized steel. Also, a problem with this method is once welded or brazed they are virtually an integral part of lamp assy making further replacement more complicated.
You can also find sockets in Salvage Yards. I usually look in damaged or broken tail and parking lamps and offer the guy a buck or two if I think the will work. They usually take the $$ since the lights aren't worth anything is they're wrecked. After the later 70s they began changing the design and making sockets replaceable, but they have the tines like those on the "HELP Racks". . . .
FPb
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Have spliced replacement connectors in the past. Perhaps more knowledgeable member would suggest otherwise. Would not rely on the crimp type joints. Suggest soldier and insulate. Wires are color coated just make sure to match. Eventually replaced the ole worn out harness with a reproduction thru 'Mr. Mustang', but depends what year truck and kind of pricey.
dave
dave
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,111
Likes: 0
From: Turlock CA
Thanks guys.
Another project for this weekend. If it doesn't keep raining. No room in the garage should move the boat out...hehehe. I guess I could pull them in the rain and weld them in the garage..
jd
Another project for this weekend. If it doesn't keep raining. No room in the garage should move the boat out...hehehe. I guess I could pull them in the rain and weld them in the garage..
jd
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,111
Likes: 0
From: Turlock CA
Well no welding needed.
I was able to walk the old sockets out it seems ford used some kind of epoxy or something else to hold them in but I was able to ease them out without any damage to the housing.
Next I was able to find a socket that was almost identical. Same brass spring setup on the wires as Fords but without the Ford connector and wire colors. It slipped in perfectly and with a little adhesive they are there for a long while.
I found the sockets at Kragen Auto (Shucks,or Checker) here is the information if anyone needs to do the same.
Made by Conduct Tite! model # 84736 M.
They say they are for 1156 but I can't find any differance.
jd
I was able to walk the old sockets out it seems ford used some kind of epoxy or something else to hold them in but I was able to ease them out without any damage to the housing.
Next I was able to find a socket that was almost identical. Same brass spring setup on the wires as Fords but without the Ford connector and wire colors. It slipped in perfectly and with a little adhesive they are there for a long while.
I found the sockets at Kragen Auto (Shucks,or Checker) here is the information if anyone needs to do the same.
Made by Conduct Tite! model # 84736 M.
They say they are for 1156 but I can't find any differance.
jd
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
customstringer
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
4
Jun 2, 2014 07:39 PM
eagle275
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
13
Nov 13, 2013 03:53 AM
snakedoc
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
Apr 24, 2011 10:45 PM
