Rear axle question
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Rear axle question
I just checked my fluid levels on the axles. Truck is 2000 F350 CC 4X4 with 150,000 miles on it.
The front axle looked good and fluid was about the color and consistency of motor oil. When I found the plug on the rear axle on the front side and removed it, it had metal shavings on it. Yes, I know that means damage in there. If I take the cover off and drain it completely, what is the best product to spray up in there and remove all the rest of the stuff before I cover it back up and fill it with new fluid?
Thanks,
Anthony
The front axle looked good and fluid was about the color and consistency of motor oil. When I found the plug on the rear axle on the front side and removed it, it had metal shavings on it. Yes, I know that means damage in there. If I take the cover off and drain it completely, what is the best product to spray up in there and remove all the rest of the stuff before I cover it back up and fill it with new fluid?
Thanks,
Anthony
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From: Too close to Houston
Those may not be metal shavings. If you have the limited slip axle the wear particles from the clutches tend to build up around the fill hole and everywhere else in the housing. Drive around a bit and feel the housing below the input shaft and on each side where the axles come out. Warm is okay, but hot would indicate you have bearing problems. With 150,000 miles I'd change the fluid anyway. Just wipe the housing out with paper towels while it's open. Be sure to use a synthetic gear oil and the additive (if it's a limited slip). I used the generic stuff from O'Rielly's on mine and it's working fine.
Last edited by Sport45; Sep 19, 2005 at 10:51 AM.
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From: Baltimore
Originally Posted by Powerkleen
The front axle looked good and fluid was about the color and consistency of motor oil. When I found the plug on the rear axle on the front side and removed it, it had metal shavings on it. Yes, I know that means damage in there. If I take the cover off and drain it completely, what is the best product to spray up in there and remove all the rest of the stuff before I cover it back up and fill it with new fluid?
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From: Long Island USA
On my Sterling rear (SRW), I had some metal shavings on the magnet at 5K miles. And a very small amount at 10K - At 21K, I've got none over time, and no obvious bearing or gear damage.
I wouldn't worry about some small amounts. When you start getting chunks, you have a problem. Shavings are usually OK, if in VERY small amounts.
Check your owner's manual for recommended fluids - I know the DRW is different than the SRW. The Dana 80 doesn't really need synth according to my '01 manual, the Sterling REQUIRES it.
Since it's a "paste" - don't worry - there's lots of stuff that comes off during the break-in for the first 10K miles or so.
art k.
I wouldn't worry about some small amounts. When you start getting chunks, you have a problem. Shavings are usually OK, if in VERY small amounts.
Check your owner's manual for recommended fluids - I know the DRW is different than the SRW. The Dana 80 doesn't really need synth according to my '01 manual, the Sterling REQUIRES it.
Since it's a "paste" - don't worry - there's lots of stuff that comes off during the break-in for the first 10K miles or so.
art k.
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With the truck having 150,000 miles on it and me not knowing what the service before 95K was, I wanted to make sure. I have had the SRW for the last 3 years and love it, figured that it was my luck to have stuff start going wrong with it.
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Originally Posted by Powerkleen
With the truck having 150,000 miles on it and me not knowing what the service before 95K was, I wanted to make sure. I have had the SRW for the last 3 years and love it, figured that it was my luck to have stuff start going wrong with it.
If I were you, I'd remove the cover and check the teeth and make sure there are not that are chipped, and that they are nice bright-and-shiny and not dark-overheated looking.
I used RTV to re-seal the cover, and waited almost 24 hours before refilling. Not sure if that's necessary, but I let it fully cure.
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Thanks krewat,
Sounds like a winner to me. I have four vehicles setting in the yard, so if I had to wait for it to cure, that would not be a problem.
Do you remember how many quarts of gear oil yours took and did you get the additive from a parts store or the stealership? How do I know which axle is under my truck. I have the Haynes manual and it list 3 axles. I know that it is the 3.73 Limited slip rearend on a SRW.
Sounds like a winner to me. I have four vehicles setting in the yard, so if I had to wait for it to cure, that would not be a problem.
Do you remember how many quarts of gear oil yours took and did you get the additive from a parts store or the stealership? How do I know which axle is under my truck. I have the Haynes manual and it list 3 axles. I know that it is the 3.73 Limited slip rearend on a SRW.
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From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by Powerkleen
Thanks krewat,
Sounds like a winner to me. I have four vehicles setting in the yard, so if I had to wait for it to cure, that would not be a problem.
Do you remember how many quarts of gear oil yours took and did you get the additive from a parts store or the stealership? How do I know which axle is under my truck. I have the Haynes manual and it list 3 axles. I know that it is the 3.73 Limited slip rearend on a SRW.
Sounds like a winner to me. I have four vehicles setting in the yard, so if I had to wait for it to cure, that would not be a problem.
Do you remember how many quarts of gear oil yours took and did you get the additive from a parts store or the stealership? How do I know which axle is under my truck. I have the Haynes manual and it list 3 axles. I know that it is the 3.73 Limited slip rearend on a SRW.
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Originally Posted by Big Orn
10.5" Sterling rear diff - 6.9 quarts plus friction modifier. Only the dealer carries the fricmod around here.
As for the friction modifier, I've found it all over the place, just read the label, and if it says compatible with synthetics, you're good to go. It may not even specifically say synthetic.
The best way to tell is if it STINKS. That's the right stuff
I've found CRC, Kendall and other brands all over the place.
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No need to use RTV on the cover, even though Ford doesn't list a gasket for it, it's available at any good parts store. Ditto on the friction modifier. If the original fill was synthetic, stay with that, but make sure it's the right weight. And if the bottle says you it's for limited slip diffs, DON'T believe it, add the modifier anyway.
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