Need help understanding some codes.
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Need help understanding some codes.
I did the self test on my 88 bronco and got some codes i don't quite understand.
One is #16 "IDM signal not received". What type of sensor is that?
Second is #98 "Electronic Pressure Control Driver Open in EEC (E4AOD)
I guess this means that my tranny is toast
.....but please do explain what's up!
I also got the very suspected #63 and #122 that says TPS cirquit below minimum 0,6Volts. -I hope the TP sensor is a cheap one....
Many thank's in advance for any thoughts about the, to me, hard to understand codes.
/Mike
One is #16 "IDM signal not received". What type of sensor is that?
Second is #98 "Electronic Pressure Control Driver Open in EEC (E4AOD)
I guess this means that my tranny is toast
.....but please do explain what's up!I also got the very suspected #63 and #122 that says TPS cirquit below minimum 0,6Volts. -I hope the TP sensor is a cheap one....
Many thank's in advance for any thoughts about the, to me, hard to understand codes.
/Mike
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From: maui.HI
Sometimes these codes are caused by poor connection, not necessarily a faulty sensor. Check your harness at the ECM for looseness or moisture. Clean if ness. and apply a little bit of dielectric grease on terminals.
The TPS may just need to be adjusted. Get a manual that shows the schematics on the TPS and connector. With Key-on/eng off back probe the harness and check that you have between 4 to 6 v. at the v.ref. terminal. Then check TPS sig terminal and Sig. return. for your .6v. Loosen the TPS mounting scews and adj. if necessary. I was told to adj. to .8 v. I don't know the reason but have not had problems doing so. Also make sure that engine is warmed up and rpm @ about 750. You may have to readjust your TPS if you adjusted your rpm. Also while your meter is still connected, slowly move your throttle from wide open to close and see if there are any blank or bald spots on your tps. HTH
Mike
The TPS may just need to be adjusted. Get a manual that shows the schematics on the TPS and connector. With Key-on/eng off back probe the harness and check that you have between 4 to 6 v. at the v.ref. terminal. Then check TPS sig terminal and Sig. return. for your .6v. Loosen the TPS mounting scews and adj. if necessary. I was told to adj. to .8 v. I don't know the reason but have not had problems doing so. Also make sure that engine is warmed up and rpm @ about 750. You may have to readjust your TPS if you adjusted your rpm. Also while your meter is still connected, slowly move your throttle from wide open to close and see if there are any blank or bald spots on your tps. HTH
Mike
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Hey Mike,
Thanks for the info.
The car has been sitting since 98 and i'm now trying to revive it.
So far it works fine if i disregard the CE light and compensate with the fun- pedal when needed. I fixed the IAC valve so now it will start and idle at 750rpm, -sometimes. Most often it will drop dead within a few seconds if i dont compensate with the pedal.
The TPS problem probably is because a bad terminal. I will look more into that next weekend. It wouldn't surprice me if i dont have enough voltage into the tps now that i know how low the tps-in voltage is.
So the 98 code is most likely a bad connection. I better go through
the entire system's connectors and see what happens. I know it won't hurt.
Does the EEC have the capacity to read if the lost connection is by the sensor or at the main eec conn.?
One more, -can i remove the tps without removing the throttle body?
As far as i can tell the tps looks like it's cramped in on the underside of the TB. True?
Thanks again Mike.
/Mike
Thanks for the info.
The car has been sitting since 98 and i'm now trying to revive it.
So far it works fine if i disregard the CE light and compensate with the fun- pedal when needed. I fixed the IAC valve so now it will start and idle at 750rpm, -sometimes. Most often it will drop dead within a few seconds if i dont compensate with the pedal.
The TPS problem probably is because a bad terminal. I will look more into that next weekend. It wouldn't surprice me if i dont have enough voltage into the tps now that i know how low the tps-in voltage is.
So the 98 code is most likely a bad connection. I better go through
the entire system's connectors and see what happens. I know it won't hurt.
Does the EEC have the capacity to read if the lost connection is by the sensor or at the main eec conn.?
One more, -can i remove the tps without removing the throttle body?
As far as i can tell the tps looks like it's cramped in on the underside of the TB. True?
Thanks again Mike.
/Mike
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From: maui.HI
Mike, I've only learned the EEC-IV efi system a little more than a year now, so I'm pretty green but will share what I can with you. If I can't answer it I know someone with more experience will jump in soon.
Anyway don't forget to check your basics like the many vacuum hoses and connections.
Removing the tps on trucks are much easier if you unbolt the throttle body. You can get a new TB gasket from your local auto parts store. Since you have it off, cleaning the idle air valve which is bolted on the TB wont hurt.
As far as I know the ECM cannot distinguish on what part of the circuit is faulty. They didn't make it that easy. It stores a code when ever the voltage value is not within the predetermind specs of what they should be and when. But It can tell on some circuits like the EGRs valve is not opening or the EGRs vacuum solenoid circuit is not functioning. Good luck
Mike
Anyway don't forget to check your basics like the many vacuum hoses and connections.
Removing the tps on trucks are much easier if you unbolt the throttle body. You can get a new TB gasket from your local auto parts store. Since you have it off, cleaning the idle air valve which is bolted on the TB wont hurt.
As far as I know the ECM cannot distinguish on what part of the circuit is faulty. They didn't make it that easy. It stores a code when ever the voltage value is not within the predetermind specs of what they should be and when. But It can tell on some circuits like the EGRs valve is not opening or the EGRs vacuum solenoid circuit is not functioning. Good luck
Mike
Last edited by mauicruza; Sep 19, 2005 at 11:24 PM.
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I have checked most vacuum hoses and connections already, and because the car runs fine except for the idle and an intermittent loss of power i haven't looked more at those points.
I will however look through all the running systems and do some maintenence to them all when i have killed the codes.
Ok, so it is like i thought it would be to get to the tps. In other words, no tricks to it...
The idle air solenoid is already cleaned, oiled and tested in my kitchen and bolted back again.
I thought it sounded a little too advanced for a 1988 computer to have a feature like sensing cable resistance. It can never hurts knowing that it can't though!
I'll let you know more after the upcoming weekend how things have turned out.
Thanks again.
/Mike
I will however look through all the running systems and do some maintenence to them all when i have killed the codes.
Ok, so it is like i thought it would be to get to the tps. In other words, no tricks to it...
The idle air solenoid is already cleaned, oiled and tested in my kitchen and bolted back again.
I thought it sounded a little too advanced for a 1988 computer to have a feature like sensing cable resistance. It can never hurts knowing that it can't though!
I'll let you know more after the upcoming weekend how things have turned out.
Thanks again.
/Mike
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