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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 10:01 AM
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dk5122
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351 Stroker rebuild

I know this has been covered before here... But I would like to get a new look on this. Yes, I have read many, many old posts. I am rebuilding a 85 351HO for my 76 Bronco. I am keeping a carb on it.. Don't want to try the FI thing. I want to do a 393. No smog tests on this truck. I would like to know should I buy a kit? Have a shop figure it out? Which intake and carb to use? Opinions on heads? So far I bought long tube headers that have the jet hot coating on it. So not to much of a start yet. Truck has 36" swampers on it...411 Gears. I'm keeping it an automatic.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 10:13 AM
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A 393 will put out around 450tq...so make sure your drivetrain and automatic trans can handle that kind of power.

What is the intention of the vehicle?

What RPMs will it be operating at?

What size budget?

Are we talking nice expensive motor, or just mild no show brute power?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MustangGT221
A 393 will put out around 450tq...so make sure your drivetrain and automatic trans can handle that kind of power.

What is the intention of the vehicle?

What RPMs will it be operating at?

What size budget?

Are we talking nice expensive motor, or just mild no show brute power?
I have a C4 trans... That I will get rebuilt.

Intention? Some off-road... trails, beach, I would like to be able to take a 3 hour trip to the beach. I just want it to be a beast.

RPM's... I would think to keep the tq. down low for my type of use.

Budget? Depends.. I'm ok with spending some cash.. Don't want to get a second mortgage... lol.. Not really sure what I'm getting myself into$$$$..


And last... I am glad you answered first Justin... I know you have been though alot with yours... You are the reason I'm staying with a carb.. To much to change on a 76 Bronco.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 11:59 AM
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I'd totally go carb on a 76 bronco.

I'd say you need a healthy budget of around $5000-$6000+

You may want to look into that 392 Ford crate motor, it's $6500 but it's got everything you need. I'd say an intake and cam change on it would help bring the power down low, but I didn't build mine to be a low RPM torque monster. It has pleanty of torque down low just being a 393. It's worth researching...

Otherwise...

You can get a shortblock like I did, have someone like CHP build you a long block, or build it yourself...depends on your abilities and what you're willing to get into.

I'm looking forward to my next engine project as being a lot of fun. It'll probably be a 302.
 

Last edited by MustangGT221; Sep 18, 2005 at 12:02 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 02:01 PM
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I'm hearing atleast $4500 for starters.. Maybe get a rotating assembly a let a local shop put it together. That way I can talk to them in person. Not sure yet. It will prob be a full winter project. I gotta get heat in the garage.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 02:20 PM
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The local engine shop I talked to wanted $2000 plus labor to do the shortblock 408. And I had to find a block, which I wasn't really able to find easily.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 02:22 PM
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Wow... I have alot of researching to do. I have the block.. But thats about it.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:26 PM
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Well do you want to assemble the shortblock yourself, or have it done?
 
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 12:58 AM
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For about the same price as a stock rebuild, you can make a 393. But why not go ahead and get a complete 351 core engine instead of a bare block? You'll save money by starting with a compete engine because you'll have all of the small parts (oil pan, bolts, etc.) and you'll have the right ones, too.

Use stock 351W rods, stock 302 pistons, and a new stroker crank. The rest is pretty standard fare. The 393 stroker build is such a no-brainer, I'm suprised that we don't see it more often.

If you want to get tricky, do a retro-fit of a roller cam. Again, it uses mostly stock Ford parts. The only trick piece is the reduced base circle cam. You'll need heavier springs to handle the extra weight of the roller lifters, but that information can come from the cam grinder.

If you're on a budget, use 351W heads from the early to mid-70's.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by MustangGT221
Well do you want to assemble the shortblock yourself, or have it done?
Depending on the price I guess. Someone still will have to do the machine work.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by pcmenten
For about the same price as a stock rebuild, you can make a 393. But why not go ahead and get a complete 351 core engine instead of a bare block? You'll save money by starting with a compete engine because you'll have all of the small parts (oil pan, bolts, etc.) and you'll have the right ones, too.

Use stock 351W rods, stock 302 pistons, and a new stroker crank. The rest is pretty standard fare. The 393 stroker build is such a no-brainer, I'm suprised that we don't see it more often.

If you're on a budget, use 351W heads from the early to mid-70's.
I have a complete 351HO out of a 85 F-150. I only said the block because the heads are junk. I'll have to look into your second paragraph that also makes good sense. I can buy and eagle assembly for like $1000 or a scat setup for like $1300. Either is already balanced. As for the heads I'm leaning towards AFR 185's for the money they look like my best bet. Thanks, Dan
 
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 02:56 PM
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You can get a CHP shortblock 351 for $1800-$1900.

My 393 stroker shortblock was $2400 with cam installed, balanced/blueprinted, whole deal.

I have a roller cam with the roller lifters retrofited in the old non-roller block. It has 302 pistons, not sure about the rods but probably 351 length rods but they're I-beams, not stock. Cast 3.85 crank.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 11:11 PM
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I'm sure you already know this, but the 393 stroker idea was; stock 351W rods, standard 302 pistons, and a 3.85" stroker crank. The crank is less than $400; ultra cheap compared to the pimped-up kits. Use good (like ARP) rod bolts and you're solid. Since you need to balance the rotating assembly anyway, you can't avoid that expense by buying a kit.

If you want to compare costs, add up the cost of 302 pistons, new rod bolts, rebuilding the rods, and the cost of the crank, compared to a complete kit. Spend the money you saved on a roller-cam retro-fit.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 04:22 AM
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Thanks guys.... Justin I don't think I'll ever buy anything from CHP... Didn't they give you all kinds of wrong parts? The price does look good though. Did you have a local shop check out the short block before you installed it? pcmenten.. I have two local shops putting some estimates together for me. One is the 393 other is the 408. Both shops have been around for about 30 years and they race Fords as well. I will check into buying the parts seperate. Most shops want a complete kit. They said it is alot easier to balance that way??? Please keep the ideas coming.. Thanks again..
 

Last edited by dk5122; Sep 20, 2005 at 04:24 AM.
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 09:24 AM
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It seems that the 393 is pretty popular. But is it really suitable for a daily driver? What kind of fuel bills are you guys looking at with a 393?
 
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