What starter do I use?
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Mesquite, Texas
What starter do I use?
67 F100 352 I have hedman headers on it and they are not ceramic. I lost the original starter due to a failed solonoid after 500 miles. I put that powermaster high torqe and high heat resistant starter on it I dont remember the number on it and now its locked up with only 500 miles on it. I know I,m not supposed to wrap these headers so I had an insulating blanket on both starters. Since I have to pull the header and jack up the engine this is getting old fast every time I have to change it. Any recommendations on what I should put on it this Time. Thanks in advance for your help
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
Wow....something is very, very wrong. I'm still running the same generic starter that was on my truck from 3 yrs ago and I"ve got Hedman headers on it!!
Now, maybe the real issue is you're in Texas....an I'm not. I'm sure the underhood temps are much higher for you than me. I know even mine cooks a set of wires in a couple years and I have a 180 t/stat in it. For some reason it still run hot enough to do it(mech guage says around 190 most of summer time).
Have you tried just a stainless shield? I wonder if the blanket on the starter is actually holding too much heat in the starter and causing failure? Since it soaks up heat from engine block, maybe the blanket doesn't let it breathe enough, thus baking it from the inside?
Never had issues like this so I'm just pickin a straws here....
Now, maybe the real issue is you're in Texas....an I'm not. I'm sure the underhood temps are much higher for you than me. I know even mine cooks a set of wires in a couple years and I have a 180 t/stat in it. For some reason it still run hot enough to do it(mech guage says around 190 most of summer time).
Have you tried just a stainless shield? I wonder if the blanket on the starter is actually holding too much heat in the starter and causing failure? Since it soaks up heat from engine block, maybe the blanket doesn't let it breathe enough, thus baking it from the inside?
Never had issues like this so I'm just pickin a straws here....
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Yeah I have to agree with Larry here...Something isnt right...500 miles on a high torque starter? Like larry I run what ever starter is on sale..lol..
Years ago I had a starter heat soak problem.....and rapped the new starter with a heat blanket!! and it lasted a year....I bought another rebild and didnt rap it and its been there over 10 years now? Knock on would!!
Russ
Years ago I had a starter heat soak problem.....and rapped the new starter with a heat blanket!! and it lasted a year....I bought another rebild and didnt rap it and its been there over 10 years now? Knock on would!!
Russ
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Texas
smells fishy. sounds like it's not a starter issue. but, if you want a recommendation, try the Jeg's pro-starter. Mine has taken quite a bit of abuse and it keeps coming back. Jeg's provides good customer service if needed. (Never used it for this starter though)
once: someting shorted and it engaged while I was driving at about 35mph. the starter spun way too fast making a horrible noise. It must have got real hot and would not start. After a couple hours it cooled down and fired right up. no lingering issues.
recently: I had left some exhaust clamps loose and they were basically laying up against the tranny/starter area getting things hot and making for some hard starts. But once I tigtened up the exhaust, it starts like a charm once again!
once: someting shorted and it engaged while I was driving at about 35mph. the starter spun way too fast making a horrible noise. It must have got real hot and would not start. After a couple hours it cooled down and fired right up. no lingering issues.
recently: I had left some exhaust clamps loose and they were basically laying up against the tranny/starter area getting things hot and making for some hard starts. But once I tigtened up the exhaust, it starts like a charm once again!
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Mesquite, Texas
Thanks freightrain, russ and gtex, I,m running a 160 high flow thermostat with a jegs hi volume water pump on a new 4 row radiator. The truck runs cool at idle in gear in rush hour stop and go traffic for miles on end but that may have cooked these starters. I,m thinking about the one gtex said but I bought this powermaster from jegs so I,m about to find out how good the customer service is on it and I,ll let every one know. If I dont put that one on I,ll use a new one from napa with the lifetime warranty. I think I,ll leave the insulated blanket off the new one and put a aluminum shield on it as I dont think it,ll let as much heat threw it as stainless and it,ll cool off quicker ( I think ) thanks again guys I,ll keep ya'll updated
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From: Long Island USA
Aluminum is a good heat conductor... that's why it's a good heat sink, but it needs something to sink the heat TO.
No idea if it's better or worse than stainless, but ... it's not going to help unless you bolt it to a (relatively) cool object.
No idea if it's better or worse than stainless, but ... it's not going to help unless you bolt it to a (relatively) cool object.
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
For the life of me..I dont know why everyone advertises a lower themostat as a way to keep your engine cool..Its Bull*****.. the only dam thing a thermostat does is control at what temp your hearter starts working...LOL..
and Myself in the winter I like 180* heat... when your motor gets up to operating temp..it doesnt care what degree tstat your running..unless your running something way over the manufacture's suggested tstat..Like a 210 or a 220* then it will run warm until the tsat opens up and then go back to its normal operating temp!!
I see alot of guys in the Mustang club doing this..running a 160 tstat..and they actually think thats what there temp is!! Sorry for the ranting!! It must be Beer thirty!!
Russ
and Myself in the winter I like 180* heat... when your motor gets up to operating temp..it doesnt care what degree tstat your running..unless your running something way over the manufacture's suggested tstat..Like a 210 or a 220* then it will run warm until the tsat opens up and then go back to its normal operating temp!!
I see alot of guys in the Mustang club doing this..running a 160 tstat..and they actually think thats what there temp is!! Sorry for the ranting!! It must be Beer thirty!!
Russ
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From: Clayton CA
I just had a Powermaster fail in my truck with only about 300 miles on it. Stayed engaged after starting, sounding like metal fingernails on a metal chalkboard. Yech! Put my stock starter back in but it's barely turning the beast over. So, I'm looking at upgrading further to Tilden although the Jeg's starter might be an option too. In the meantime my new rebuild has developed a wrist-pin knock and is blowing oil above 3000 RPM. So, I'm out of action (again). 
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Mesquite, Texas
Jegs customer service
Thanks for the input Russ, krewat and fast texan. I called Jegs and they asked me a bunch a questions about what to check and I had already done all that so they said they would give my money back on it when i got to them with the return form filled out on the back of the receipt. They said they could sell me the Jegs prostarter and it would be here in 4 days or I could wait until they got mine back and credit me the differnce and then send the prostarter but I just bought it and I,ll return the powermaster after its installed. It seems Jegs customer service is about as good as customer service gets. No problems with them. Hey Russ these texas hot rod guys said the 160 with was the way to go with a FE so I just followed that advice and down here in the winter it puts out enough heat for the heater. And about beer30, wait on me Lol
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by fasttexan
In the meantime my new rebuild has developed a wrist-pin knock and is blowing oil above 3000 RPM. So, I'm out of action (again).
Just curious... too much oil in the cylinder will do all sorts of things - like raise to compress to "infiniity"-to-1
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Clayton CA
Charles, good to hear Jegs did right by you. I got my Powermaster from Summit and I'm sure they'd do the same thing but I've had it for a couple of years, it just hasn't seen much use. So, I'll probably eat this one.
As for my motor (sorry to hijack the thread), I'm only burning oil on the right cylinder bank. I've got a distinctive knock that was once very faint but is now fairly distinctive. At speeds less than 60 MPH I don't get any oil burn; above 60 (about 3000 RPM) it starts to smoke and gets worse at higher speeds. Based on what I've learned from the true gurus on the board, it sounds like a wrist pin or a loose rod. I haven't dropped the pan yet but, because I have a windage tray, it may be necessary to pull the motor to get the pan off. Before I do that I'm going to drive it down to my machinist and let him listen to it (and just maybe give him an earfull of *****!).
As for my motor (sorry to hijack the thread), I'm only burning oil on the right cylinder bank. I've got a distinctive knock that was once very faint but is now fairly distinctive. At speeds less than 60 MPH I don't get any oil burn; above 60 (about 3000 RPM) it starts to smoke and gets worse at higher speeds. Based on what I've learned from the true gurus on the board, it sounds like a wrist pin or a loose rod. I haven't dropped the pan yet but, because I have a windage tray, it may be necessary to pull the motor to get the pan off. Before I do that I'm going to drive it down to my machinist and let him listen to it (and just maybe give him an earfull of *****!).
!["Beemer Nut"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23bc5285' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
Hows this for a guess, 3,000 rpm's plus the heads fill with oil and ya suck oil thru the pcv valve hence smoke at the same time the bottom ends dry and ya took out a rod bearing? Loose rockers no restrictors? I'll shut up now.
.....=o&o>.....
.....=o&o>.....
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
Hows this for a guess, 3,000 rpm's plus the heads fill with oil and ya suck oil thru the pcv valve hence smoke at the same time the bottom ends dry and ya took out a rod bearing? Loose rockers no restrictors? I'll shut up now.
.....=o&o>.....
.....=o&o>.....
and Tex...I think I would tell your machinist in such a way..He REALLY understands!!! and when he does it again have him give you all the building clearence's , So you can review them.. JMO!!
Russ
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Mesquite, Texas
Hey fasttexan you didnt hijack this thread you have a problem and thats fine by me to get help any way you can. But now to take it back, I just pulled the inspection plate on my C6 and the powermaster was locked up extended/ engaged in the flywheel so I used a long screw driver and bumped it loose. Now comes the bad news. It took out about 4 inches of teeth on the fly wheel and now I have anti frezze dripping off the back of the engine and dripping out at the center of the shaft behind the flywheel and before the tourqe converter. also I had told freightrain that my bendix gear box had quit leakin. Well it had until I put the truck on jack stands for the starter and now it pours out about the size of a pencil lead. Oh well I didnt have any thing to do this weekend and next any way. I need to make a list here. Pull header, jack up engine, pull starter. Pull transmission, pull flywheel. Pull freeze plugs at the rear of engine ( I hope thats it ) Can ya'll think of any thing else??? Oh and I forgot, install the new power brake booster and master cylinder when it gets here.