Steering does not return to "Square"
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Senior User
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Steering does not return to "Square"
Hello,
I bought a non-running 94 Explorer (4.0L pushrod) and built a running truck using most of my 91 Explorer. I transfered the engine/tranny/transfer case as well as the entire interior.
My problem is that the steering does not return to centre. The PS pump is fine and the steering works in all other regards.
As I said I bought the truck non-running so I have no idea as to how it was treated and how it used to handle. My only clues are that the passenger side wheel seems to toe out slightly. I also had the steering wheel off to put in the new dashboard. I did not touch and steering/suspension components at all save to raise and lower the truck 40-50 times. The front passenger tire "whines" very loudly when it drives.
Alignment time? Any thoughts?
Thanks.
I bought a non-running 94 Explorer (4.0L pushrod) and built a running truck using most of my 91 Explorer. I transfered the engine/tranny/transfer case as well as the entire interior.
My problem is that the steering does not return to centre. The PS pump is fine and the steering works in all other regards.
As I said I bought the truck non-running so I have no idea as to how it was treated and how it used to handle. My only clues are that the passenger side wheel seems to toe out slightly. I also had the steering wheel off to put in the new dashboard. I did not touch and steering/suspension components at all save to raise and lower the truck 40-50 times. The front passenger tire "whines" very loudly when it drives.
Alignment time? Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 805
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From: Pauline, South Carolina
I think you've diagnosed it. At least start by getting the alignment checked. But before checking the alignment, have you looked at the radius arms & bushings and made sure that the front wheel bearings are tight?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Minneapolis, MN
You may want to check the u-joints on the front axle shafts if the truck is 4WD and has TTB setup in front end. If frozen or stiff they will prevent proper steering operation. Fixed this problem on both my 84 ranger and the 88 bronco. It's amazing how powerful the PS pump is, when the U-joints are frozen to the point that they do not move while holding in vice, the steering has no problems turning them. Remember that they are pivoting while steering, even when the 4 wheel is not engaged. Ball joints should also be considered.
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Hello,
Thanks for the feedback. I hoped to get this thing back on the road ASAP but it seems it may take a little longer. I suppose I may as well do the ball joints and front bearings since I've done so much work so far.
I think the U-joints are OK as we checked them thoroughly when we installed the engine/tranny (I had the transfer case out at that time). If any area got less attention it was the front u-joint by the differential. I'll have another look.
In the past if I replace tie rod ends etc I usually apply a mark on the treads so I know where to re-align the adjuster. Any ideas what to do with this severe toe-out (after I do the work) until I can get it into the alignement shop?
Should I just "eye-ball" it for now?
Thanks for the feedback. I hoped to get this thing back on the road ASAP but it seems it may take a little longer. I suppose I may as well do the ball joints and front bearings since I've done so much work so far.
I think the U-joints are OK as we checked them thoroughly when we installed the engine/tranny (I had the transfer case out at that time). If any area got less attention it was the front u-joint by the differential. I'll have another look.
In the past if I replace tie rod ends etc I usually apply a mark on the treads so I know where to re-align the adjuster. Any ideas what to do with this severe toe-out (after I do the work) until I can get it into the alignement shop?
Should I just "eye-ball" it for now?
"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 4
From: Mifflin, PA
Toe in - get a helper, put a couple pieces of 2X2 or similar straight edges across the outside of the wheels, measure between them front and back of wheels adjust tie rods until measurements are equal. This will get you to an alignment shop....
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Yeah, sounds reasonable. It can't get any worse than it is right now. This should get me across town.
Thanks.
I was going to save the front end work until next year but...
Any suggestions on what I should do mechanically now and what I should put off until the spring? Should I do the ball joints (etc) now since I need to get an alignment anyway? (why pay twice)
Thanks.
I was going to save the front end work until next year but...
Any suggestions on what I should do mechanically now and what I should put off until the spring? Should I do the ball joints (etc) now since I need to get an alignment anyway? (why pay twice)
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Minneapolis, MN
I have adjusted the toe using a tape measure on the same point on the tire treads on the front side and comparing it to the rear side at about mid height. Try to error with a slight toe in, much better to drive than toe out. As far as the ball joints are concerned it depends on how much time and money you want to spend. If the vehicle is not needed for a daily driver, it is not a bad project. The U-Joints I was talking about are the ones by your steering knuckles, not the differential.
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I'll have a look re: U-Joints. I think I need to make a slight adjustment on the steering wheel as there seems to be some resistance up top. I torqued it down to specs but maybe I got part of the cowel caught or some stupid thing.
I actually used the "tape and tread" method before reading your second post and it seemed to work out well. I had a chuckle when I read your post as I had just come in from the adjustment. I had been using various trial and error methods until I tried measuring from the frame to the tread lines and compared with other tires. I could have saved a lot of time if I had read your second post first!
Anyway it runs smoother now. I need to adjust in a little more and see how that works. It will get me to a shop. Ball joints on one side are really bad (opposite side as the toe-out). I may replace them and then take it in for alignment.
I actually used the "tape and tread" method before reading your second post and it seemed to work out well. I had a chuckle when I read your post as I had just come in from the adjustment. I had been using various trial and error methods until I tried measuring from the frame to the tread lines and compared with other tires. I could have saved a lot of time if I had read your second post first!
Anyway it runs smoother now. I need to adjust in a little more and see how that works. It will get me to a shop. Ball joints on one side are really bad (opposite side as the toe-out). I may replace them and then take it in for alignment.
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FYI
I wacked a whole bunch of penetrating oil up and down the steering column and she runs fine now. Go figure.
I will still do the front end work and get the alignment but at least the steering is working properly.
You know what they say about the easiest, most obvious solutions...
Thanks for your responses.
Gil
I wacked a whole bunch of penetrating oil up and down the steering column and she runs fine now. Go figure.
I will still do the front end work and get the alignment but at least the steering is working properly.
You know what they say about the easiest, most obvious solutions...
Thanks for your responses.
Gil
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