I coudlnt' find it with the search feature, though its prolly been answered thousdands of times.

Thing is, i can't remmeber, cause it was a year ago.


Can you replace the nylon/plastic nut from the top in the cab instead of dropping the transmission?

and can you bleed the slave without droping the m50d also?

 

Okay. still not really answering my question in the search yet again.

I am pretty sure they are going through the floor.

But i read something about tearing back the carpet and removeing the seat?

I just have to tear apart the shifter boot and pull the shifter to replace the bushings correct?

They are plastic, or nylon boots or bushing plugs, one of those.

I just pull the shifter and they pop in? and the shifter reinserts? or do i have to do something to get it back in?

I'm a simple man, and stay away from transmissions. but id ont want to spend 300 to get this fixed by dealership or repair place when the parts are 15 dollars.

 

Are you talking about the blue cup/cap that the ball of the shifter stub sits on?

If so, remove the four screws holding the shifter boot/plate to the floor. Now you have two options, remove the shifter from the stub or work around it, if you wanna remove the upper part of the shifter, you'll see a large nut at the bottom of the shifter, remove it, now place it on the other side, thread it down, keep tightening until it draws the pin out, remove the upper shifter. NOw you have three torx screws to remove, easy enough, ensure the shifter is in neutral/ parking brake set, once the screws are removed, remove the shifter stub. Now your gonna see a blue cup/cap inside the housing, with two pins holding it down, get creative and push these pins outward. Long handle plier and a socket works great. Easy enough after that, remove the cup/cap and replace, if it does not come with another metal ring, wavy looking thing the cup/cap sits on, then you may wanna slightly bend the curves on the ring to add more pressure to the cup/cap once installed. There is an upper cap/cup on the shifter stub, its just a matter of removing the rubber bushing/seal etc. and reassembling in order. Assembly is the reverse of removal. When reinstalling the upper shifter to the shifter stub, remove the nut from the pin, insert the pin as it came out, then put the nut back on the original side and tighten until the upper shifter is snug to the stub. Easy enough.


You can bleed the clutch without removing tranny as well.


You should get a haynes manual, it explains this in more detail.

 

i've noticed my haynes manual becomes worthless for anything i look up, so i stoped looking.

I'm talking about the bushings the shifter sets in that keeps it from wiggling around.

Usually they are brass, but they are plastic or nylon on the mazda, and since people tend to be rough on shifters, the plastic gets wore faster and breaks.

Sounds pretty simple to do.

Hopefully local store will have parts.

Thanks for answering also.

Some people are so ... well, lame about replying.

 

No problem, I know what you mean about getting tranny replies related to the mazda tranny.

There is another bushing that sits on top of the shifter stub "ball", probably wouldn't hurt to replace it as well, it looks just like the lower bushing, except the metal ring that tensions the bushing agains the stub "ball" is fixed to the bushing vs the lower where it is not.

Also bleeding the hydrallic line is alot easier than people make it out to be on here, just take your time and be patient because it could take a while, however, doable.

The general info haynes manual is pretty useless when it comes to tranny repair, thats for sure, check out the clutch hydraullic bleeding procedure though, its helpful.

Good luck

 

hate to steal your thread but I'm also working on my mazda and I have it tore apart right now and all I have to do is put it back together. When I bolt the top plate onto the tranny the shifter is stuck and it won't move. I left it in 1st gear because thats what it said in the directions for the 3 plugs. I also had to pull the shifter out to replace the bushings because the shifter was really wobbly and the only thing left of them was little blue pieces that looked almost like glass. I searched and found another post on here and it said to hold the spring loaded piece with something while you put the shifter in and I done that but it still won't budge.

 

You've confused me fella...haha

There are two pins on the tranny itself that hold the lower blue cap/cup/bushing, whatever you wanna call it, down.

To replace the lower bushing the shifter has to be removed, how is yours stuck if you removed it?

I bet it was difficult to remove the shifter with it in first?

 

ok I guess I should have been a little more clear... ok I'll start over and slow this time.

I read on here in the directions for replacing the rubber plugs and it said to leave it in 1st gear. So I put it in first and took the kick panels off, took off the t-case boot then the lever. Next I unbolted the shifter and left the bottom part of the shifter in the tranny, next I pulled the carpet back then took off the aluminum cover plate and soaked everything down with brake cleaner. I took out the (10) 12mm bolts and lifted the top cover off. I got it out and replaced the rubber plugs and put silicone gasket sealer around them, next I took off the (3) t-30 screws that hold the lower part of the shifter in and I found no bushings but I did find little blue pieces (looked like pieces of glasss) of the remains that was left of them. I pulled it up and it came right out. Next I got vice grips and got the one pin out but the other one was staked in so I had to use our press to press it out. After that I cleaned the hole out and put in the flat washer and put the washer with the tabs onto the bushing and put that in there, next I put the two pins back in and staked them back. Ok here is where I'm at now... looking in from the top down into the hole is a piece that has "2" fingers and is spring loaded and you can move it back and forth so I've tried moving it from the bottom and pushing the shifter in so it will seat in and it seems like everything is fine but when I bolt it down on the transmission and bolt the upper part of the shifter on I cannot budge it. I know the shifter only goes in one way and the longer flat on the lower shifter goes towards the drivers side so I know I'm at least trying to put it in the right way.

 

well..take my advice with a grain of salt but if I were in your shoes, I would remove the lower shifter stub, reinstall the top part of the tranny, then reinstall the lower shifter stub, in neutral, reinstall the cover that holds the shifter stub down and see what happens...what else can you do? Wonder what the reasoning is behind leaving it in first?

 

actually I finally got it and thats what I had to do. I had to push one of the rails into neutral then slide the transmission to neutral and I also installed the lower shifter and it went right on. As for leaving it in first gear I dunno why they say that. I think someone needs to do a better write up for doing the rubber plugs, and add the bushing replacement as well since it's all right there together. For anyone else that reads this that is fixing your mazda tranny leave it in neutral and it will be a whole lot easier. My shifter works great now and it's even better than when I bought it last year. Also I plan on changing my fluid sometime soon and I'm hoping that a lot of those pieces will come out of there. I'm really suprised that I could still shift gears and I found another post where it said that you can't shift without any bushings because it won't line up properly.

 

Good to hear you figured it out.

 

Sounds like the part i need to fix is really easy. hahaha.

Hope the parts are cheep.

 

for the parts it included 2 flat washers, 2 washers w/ tabs, 2 plastic bushings, 1 cap w/ rubber boot and 3 rubber plugs. Also if you need any help I just did this and it's fresh on my mind. Also I worked on this yesterday and I got the new plugs in and sealed then I got everything back together today so that gave it plenty of time to cure. Like I said it shifts great and hopefully it'll last another 110,000 miles.

forgot to mention I still have my receipts but they're at work, I'll post up tommorrow with the part #'s and prices for you, also mine is a 4wd.

 

What years/model trucks did Ford put the M5OD into ??