My 2000 is bone stock. It doesn't have the overload springs in the rear and the front leaf spring packs only have two springs per pack. What would I have to do to beef it up and make it sit as tall as an F-350. I'd like to put a lift on it, but I need it to tow a 5th wheel travel trailer next year. So I need to know what it would cost and what parts I need to basically turn my F-250 into an F-350.

 

to the best of my knowledge most 250 and 350 superduty's sit the same on the front unless they have the plow package. they both have two springs in the front. to lift the front a leveling kit which uses add-a-leaf lift to the front to level the truck is the best way to go. for overloads i would call up a junk yard and see what it will cost you to get the spacer, spring and perches that bolt up to you frame. the perches will simply both up since the holes are already in the frame. you will need new u-bolts though since the junk yard will torch them and your originals will be too short.
thats about all you need to do to accomplish what you want. and of course if you have money to burn the stealership can get all those parts for the overlaods too.

 

Thanks TJ. I thought I would need the rear blocks for an F-350 as well. Aren't they an extra inch taller than the blocks in an F-250?

 

what i would do- for the rear, keep the springs, because they are the f-350 springs minus the overload springs. your f-250 has 2'' rear leveling blocks. however, the f-350 uses 4'' blocks. that will give you 2'' of lift in the rear.

your truck is probably sitting level (or danm near it) now with stock suspension, right? once you add the rear blocks, it will probably look like: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/DSCF2059.jpg (my '350)

what i did, was got the Rough Country 2'' front leveling kit. it is complete with two NEW COMPLETE spring packs, smooth ride. two new shocks, plus U-bolts and other stuff you need. it was $329 shipped to my door, i got it off ebay. install was a pain for a 15-year-old, but i got it done, and it was well worth it. here is what it looks leveled out. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/DSCF2079.jpg i love how it sits now. the site claimed 35'' tires would fit, but my stock-size 265's are about 1/2'' from hitting my ford molded mud guards. i would probably have to lift 3-4'' or go without mudflaps ( ) when i go to 295's for my next tires.

 

I just ordered 4" spacer blocks for my fiancees 250. Something like 130 for 4" blocks and u-bolts. I ordered blocks that were not tapered. Check that and make sure wether you need tapered blocks or not.

 

Strokin- how does a 15 year old get a truck like that? Thats cool, your truck looks great. Thanks for the tips, I think I will go that route. Thats weird that your 265's are so close. My 305's seem to have plenty of room stock. The tires look good in the pics though.

F350- How do I tell whether or not I need the tapered blocks? What was the difference in the applications of tapered versus non tapered?

Thanks for all the input.

 

I ordered the non tapered blocks for the 250 extended cab long bed. I would imagine that tapered blocks would be needed for standard cab short bed and maybe long bed applications, or if youre going to do any further lift to the truck.

 

GotLift-

I have a F250 SD and tow a 5th wheel. I installed airbags and they have been great. my truck is straight as an arrow. My father-in-law has a F350 SD with airbags and carries a 12.5' Camper, and his truck does not squat.

Darin