So these autos were manufactured in France? That explains eveything. Mine is a manual but the master clutch cylinder has crapped out on me 3 times - once when off road and 10 miles from the highway. Try making it through the desert in 100 degree heat with no clutch - fun stuff. Oh yeah, the master clutch cylinder is made in France.

James - talk to that other guy I mentioned. At least you can understand the front seal issue a little more.

 

I know the tranny is, but I don't think there is much more of it made there.

 

The dealer put mine on. The brand name is Hayden. I think they got it from Napa or Federated.

 

I have a '91 and a '92. We had Ford put in a rebuilt (both were said to be unrebuildable) on the '92 and it still works fine after 50K miles but makes odd beeping sounds. It cost about $2700 for that and new U-Joints. I had the other one replaced with a rebuilt by a place that is no longer there. It cost less than what Ford wanted but now it leaks at the shifter and it slips when it gets low on fluid. I've been putting Lucas Trans Fix in it and have gotten good results as far as the slipping goes. It's supposed to stop seal leaks but so far no luck (after 1/2 bottle). I suggest you find a place that has been in business a long time in case something goes wrong. Ask around at auto parts stores etc for someone good in your area.

 

Well thanks for all of your Input. At most I have the skill to pull the bad tranny and put a new one In as long as It bolts up right.. Does anyone now how good the Mazda 5sp Manual transmission Is that they put In the 94 Explorer?? How hard would It be to go from auto transmission to Manual? If the Mazda 5sp manual Is a better transmission?

 

I love my 5 speed. Uninformed folks have burned them up due to lack of oil from the 3 rubber plugs at back/top drying up and leaking oil. If you get a good one, just make sure new plugs are install. After market steel ones exist - or just RTV in new rubber ones. The dealers kept mine changd out during warranty so I've never had any issues.

What you will need, it's extensive:

1) Remove flexplate(flywheel for autos)/install pilot bushing in crank end and new flywheel.
2) Remove brake pedal assembly/replace with brake pedal/clutch pedal assembly. I think you need new pivot shaft bushings up in the mount for this too.
3) Buy clutch master. $79 at Napa - same exact part as Ford at 1/2 the price but without the fluid resevoir. You can probably find a universal one or get one at a Junk yard.
4) Buy clutch hydraulic line - there are 2 parts. Install upper part onto clutch master and fill with fluid - bleed on the bench, upside down to get all the air out. Then install clutch master with line as a unit.
5) Buy a 3 position clutch switch. Ford probably best for this. It connects in the harness just above the clutch pedal and mounts to the clutch push rod. Must remove currently installed jumper in harness.
6) I'd have to look but there might be a pinnout change at the PCM connector to the PCM.
7) Buy a clutch disc and pressure plate. Install on new flywheel.
8) Buy slave cylinder, connect bottom half of hydraulic line, mount in bellhousing and install transmission. Probably need a new transmission mount and maybe the cross member too.
9) Connect Hydraulic lines and bleed the slave cylinder.
10) Intstall transfer case - I think the Auto/Manuals were the same case - not sure.
11) Measure for new driveshafts. I could be wrong here but I'm pretty sure the autos and manuals are not exactly the same length.


Not too bad huh? What did I miss?

 

Oh yeah - you need to shift the thing somehow too. Don't forget about that little arm coming up through the floor.

 

Thanks for all you help again Jharger. Do you think It Is a good Idea to go from a auto to manual tranny? What about the cost? Is It worth It? Do you think I will have less trouble out of the Mazda 5sp Manual transmission than the A4LD 4sp Auto? As I said before I don't want to put anouther A4LD 4sp Auto In just to have It go out 6 months down the road..

 

From what I've read, there's a big dissenton againt A4LD's. But then, how many of them changd the oil and filter evey 30K, flushed out all the lines, kept up after leaking modulators...? Some people claim to get 200k+ miles out of them.

If you're going to do a swap, the only practical way is to find a wrecked Explorer and pull everything you can off it, flywheel and all - might even want the PCM too since then you won't get auto trans error CEL's. But then the PCM has to match your fuel injection scheme - I can't remember if you ended up SFI or MFI.

Personnally, if I already had an auto, I'd get a rebuilt and keep up after the maintenance and take my chances.

I swapped from a C4 auto to a top loader 4 sp in my 67 Cougar. Actually the C4 was in the Mustang but that's a different story. The Cougar was gutted when I got it but set up for an auto. I found a wrecked mustang and got all the components I needed, including the top loader. For me the transition was well worth it since my 302 was eating C4's at the rate of about 1 every 6 mo's. Of course then the 8" rear went but the 9" replacement finally made the drivetrain bullet proof.

 

Sorry folks followin this thread. There is only 1 hydraulic line in a manual trans system. It starts at the master cylinder up top and ends at the slave at the bottom. I was thinking the seperation point was more in the middle of the line but I just worked on mine today and realized the line ends right at the slave cylinder. The slave actually protrudes the transmission housing and that is where the connection is made. So everything else I said is OK but there is just one hydraulic line.

Sorry for the miss-post.

 

Well I am going to save myself all the trouble and stay with the auto tranny. Thank you for all your advice. I just need to get It back to my house and I don't have the money to tow It.

 

Have fun pushing it then. I've found it easier on ocassion to actully rotate a tire and use the leverage from the big diameter to move the car. OK, I'm kidding but I have moved the truck with just a tire before.

You'll get it James. After all this so far....you need a big win!

 

Well I got It home, Had It pushed and now It won't even start.. When I turn the key It sounds like the starter Is not engaging. It Is just spinning. So I can't even get It to start to even try to figure out the tranny problems. I am going to tackle the starter and replace my radiator first than I can see how bad off the transmission Is..

 

Well after almost 2 months I got the starter replaced and It Is still doing the same thing. I really need some help on this one. From what I can tell. the starter Is working and It Is turning the flywheel when I turn the key but the engine Is not turning. How can the flywheel and the starter be working as they should but the engine not turn when I try to start It?? I do know It sounds like the starter and flywheel are turning fast when I try to start It. It does not sound normal. The only thing I can think of Is that the flywheel Is not mounted to the back of the engine any more and thats what went wrong with my transmission In the first place but when I reinstalled the starter I checked the flywheel to see If It was loose but It seemed fine. When It first broke down the transmission lost all power and you could hear noise coming from the transmission when you try to put It In gear but If I were to put It In park the noise would stop. Through all of this the engine was still running good. Can anyone tell me what happened to my truck? Or give me some kind of Idea??

 

Sounds like the flex-plate (flywheel) is broken at the center mount to the crankshaft. remove the starter and see if you can spin the flywheel over by hand or a small prying tool, without turning the engine. If so, the flex-plate is broken. Not too common, but can happen.
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