James - I was elated for just a minute...and now all these new issues.

Congratulations on getting it running. It is so much easier to fix a problem if the car is right in front ouf you. A clogged CAT can have drastic effects on engine performance.

EGR - again, if it was in front of me I could tell you. If the EGR tube/valve is missing, then you'd have a gapping hole in the intake manifold. But wasn't this a 1991 motor? They didn't have EGR's - not until 1994. So your PCM may be throwing a code or 3 for EGR problems, CEL would be on. If it's an earlier motor without and EGR, it would not affect anything ecept that damn CEL light on the dash.

4x4 shift motor...I don't know if I'd let you rebuild it. You can try it. Cost is $0. Ptherwise, I've seen them on eBay for $100 - aftermarket. Do not got to Ford - $400. You know the draco web site. It tells you how to rebuild these things. In fact, you should have read every page on this web site by now. http://draco.acs.uci.edu/explorer/

Here's another great write up that some moderator will have to approve but ....
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...howtopic=36515

Fuel pump - since the float is integral to the pump, that is it does not come off as a replacable item, no...you have to change the entire thing. If you are really pressed for cashm you could try a junk yard. A used one would not be a bad option here since fuel pumps do not go out too often on these - they do - but not too often.

Transmission - sounds like the "shop" screwed you here. There are 2 places for tranny fluid to leak out of the front. Pump and shaft seal. Well I suppose the torque converter too but that would have actually have a hole in it and I have never seen that before. So like your engine guy, if you want to hold them to it, you can always sue them. If you paid with a credit card, you can always dispute the payment. That will get their attention and hopefully get you some service.

Engine performance - too vague. What you mean running rough? At idle, on accelration, crusing...?

 

First off, you are saying I should sue?? The shop Is trying to blow It off like Its not there fault. When I took the Truck to them I gave them the background on the Truck and they said they would fix It but as soon as they got It running they were done with It and they told me It was running great and to drive It and as I start having problems to bring It back to them..

When I picked It up It was running great but rough at a Idle. As soon as I got It home and shut It off It would not restart just as before. when It gets hot It will not restart.. I called the shop and told them what happened and they told me as soon as I got It started to bring it back out to them.. So after letting It cool off for about 2 hours It started right back up and I drove It back to the shop. Well they found the problem and charged me another $75.00 to fix It. I drive It home and I shut It off and then It I tried to restart It and It started so I drove It a little bit. That problem was fixed but as soon as I get home I noticed a pool of transmission fluid on the ground under my Truck.

So I call the shop back again. All they are saying Is that they told me that there still could be problems and that they will look at It for free but It will cost me If they have to drop the transmission again. Why did they not check theses things when they had It off In the first place? I have been thinking about that since I got the Truck back and this happened. Am I right?

They had the transmission off and they did most of the work to the transmission. They replaced the flex plate, flywheel, Neutral safety switch and the transmission modulator. Doing all of this work to the transmission would you not check the pump and front seal? And now that I think about It he told me that he checked the pump and seal and everything looked fine..

Do I have grounds to sue or at least force them to fix It?
As for It running rough. I don't know how to explain It. The Idle Is just rough..

 

I think that the shop you took it to did you a dis-service by not changing the torque converter and the input seal. The vibration from the flex plate issue should have been enough for them to suggest to you that they replace it while the trans was out. Also that torque converter has been known to have grooves worn into it that are hard to see causing the seal to fail. Sorry for all your troubles. If you were closer I could help you fix it right the first time for a reasonable cost.

On the 4x4 motor trouble, there is a very good right up on this site on how to check out the motor and possibly fix the very trouble you are having. What happens is that the motor doesnt get used enough and the brushes and the contact plate will get build up between them and cause the motor circuit to be open and thus no 4x4 operation.

 

Thanks I will check It out on the 4x4 motor but now my question Is what to do about the shop? I have a 12 month warranty on the work they did but my Truck Is out front with a blown front transmission seal and they won't fix It unless I pay for It. You can look them up at WWW.AutoTechUnlimited.com If you want to see what I am dealing with..

 

James. You remind me of pigpen from the peanuts. I say this in jest. Why does everyone you deal with on this truck try to screw you? OK. I, nor will anyone else on this forum, ive you legal advice. I have told you this before. If you want to sue someone, the United States and all the 750 million lawyers we have here give you that right.

Like I said before. Oil out the front of this auto tranny is from front seal, oil pump or torque converter. If the shop went through all these - I would hold them responsible. If you paid by credit card and have a problem, your CC company will stand behind you and not pay the shop until resolution occurs. This is what I am doing right now. I needed a new tranny and they gave me one out of a ranger I think. They wont pay to have it removed and replace with one from an Explorer so I'm not paying for the tranny. **** on me? OK.

I would be happy to talk to you on the phone about this. Just PM me your number. This is killing me with all the crap you have been through. It's only a car for christ sakes. It is not that complicated.

 

how about trying to get them to warranty their labor and you pay for the parts? A torque converter should be less than 250 and the pump reseal parts less than 50. i wouls approach them with the idea that maybe they should have tried to upsell the parts when they were doing the other work since the trans was already out. A good trans shop will always try to up-sell a torque converter and pump reseal on any high mileage vehicle. I am surprised they didnt! I would price around the parts before trying to reason with them so you will have some idea of parts prices for sure. On the nasty side, you can always mention that you have talked to a past Ford Master Technician(namely me) about this on a world wide website (which should remain nameless for the sites sake) and their reputation is on the line. If they do decide to do anything, make sure you get everything documented for your warranty and your own piece of mind. Keep your head about you and good luck!!

 

Pony - you must be near the Roner Acres Intel plant. Huh. I'm actually sorry I work there. Anyway, James need to give me a call. There are some issues here that email/chat rooms can not address.

But being a tech as you say - why does my 1993 Explorer vibrate me out of the truck at 65 MPH with all everything new on the front end and why do I have a front end clunk when I hit he brakes hard or tweak the suspension off road?

 

Hey James - I saw another post on this here in this forum. Please keep it to one so we are not running around all over the place.

thanks - JEFF

 

If you mean the Intel plant near Portland, OR, I am south of that and just north of Eugene.

Where do you feel the vibration? If it is in the seat or rear view mirror, you need to check out the rear drive shaft and or tire balance. If it is in the steering wheel or at your feet, then you still are having trouble with the front suspension somewhere. As for the clunk, how are the front trailing arm bushings? they can cause a clunk under braking, turning and alignment issues. As for off-roading, I ignore alot of noises when I wheel because the suspension is working close to its limits at times and will make clunks, squeeks, groans and other suspicious noises. If on-road, they would alarm me but not off-road.

 

OK Jim. Wasn't sure where Willamette was. Intel used that name as an internal code word for one of the pentium 4 processors. I thought it was closer to the plant.

I have changed everything in the front end. All bushings are now polyurethane. Sure, off road there are a lot of noises. That's not what I'm talking about. There is a serious hard bang at times. I really need to torque the suspension hard to get it. Sometimes when I hit the brakes hard it happens. So it tells me that there is movement between the tire/spindle/rotor and the frame work. Where are all the points that connect the wheel to the car? Forget the bushings, they are new. So I'm thinking the radius arm bolts to the I beam may be the culprit. I'm going to try and tighten those up this weekend. That or the coil spring mount...it's a mystery.

Vibration...others have asked this question. Steering wheel or seat. I don't really understand that question. When I say it shakes me out of the car, if I didn't hold on to the wheel I'm sure I would fall out. The entire car violently shakes. It's not just a minor inconvenience. I'm going to get it aligned...maybe that will help. Really strange though that this got worse after I changed the 4 ball joints and put on ne front brakes, rotors and wheel bearings. And yes the bearings are tightened correctly.

 

Sorry about the double post Jharger. I will stick with this one..

 

Well I talked to a Lawyer today and she sent me to a shop that advises her and other lawyers In these matters and He first told me that the front seal should have been replaced or they should have at least advised me that I should replace It because they first off were doing so much work to the transmission already and second It Is such a high mileage vehicle.
So what he was telling me was that the shop Is at fault and I should contact them and try to get them to fix It for free.
I am not trying to get legal advise. I am just trying to figure out who Is at fault and how am I going to get It fixed without It costing me more money. This Is the only problem left that Is stopping my Truck from be driveable.

 

Sorry. I wrote your number down but totally forgot to call you. started looking at Y2005 tax stuff and got pissed off that my wife's lack of planning/budgeting is going to cst my $2-3K this year. Maybe I should spend that on a divorce lawyer.

Anyway, what the lawyer was telling you has to do with implied warranties. Since the tranny shop is supposed to be an "expert", they rebuild transmissions all day long and charge for the service so it is implied they are experts, and as an expert, they have the responsibility to do the right thing. Like I said, the front seal or the oil pump (OK and the torque converter) are all that can be leaking out of the front of the tranny. So if they did not service those items, they certainly should have or advised you of it so that you could make the decision. If they did not, they wpould be liable to remedy any problems under implied warranties. This is standard stuff under the UCC - Uniform Comercial Code.

Just like with my new tranny, they wrote on the work order that I denied the extended warranty (offered at a price) but no one there ever even asked me about it. They are trying to cover their **** by having it written down as standard boilerplate...something I could back and sue them on too...but at least here, they realize they have responsibilities.

What you need to do is go back the the shop and threaten them. You do have rights. AQnd again, if you paid with a credit card, refute the payment with your credit card company. That's what I'm doing right now with my tranny. Idiots gave me one out of a Ranger with higher 1st, 2nd gear ratios, no nuetral safety switch and a different top cover requiring a different shifter stub that I had to go find somewhere since they said my old one would work fine - not!

 

Ok well I went back to the shop today and he flat out told me It was not his problem and he will not do anything to help fix the problem and this shop Is a full service shop they don't just work on transmissions and also they never once warned me about the front seal or anything else for that matter. All they did was call me one day and said It was fixed. I went and picked It up and It broke down as soon as I got home. I took It back. They fixed It. I drove It home and It has been broke down every since..
I now have to get a lawyer and find some way of fixing my Truck Again..

 

Well I am going to try to fix It this weekend myself. Can someone please explain to me what I should do or point me to something that would show me how to do this??
I am going to drop the transmission and try to replace the front seal. The book explains how to drop and reinstall the transmission but It does not explain how to fix the front seal or how to check the pump and replace It If I have to.