Stainless header bolts
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
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From: Santa Clarita
Stainless header bolts
I just purchased a set of Sanderson headers. The headers didn't come with bolts because I purchased the set from a friend. Sanderson does not recommend stainless bolts for whatever reason, they say to use grade 8 header bolts. I prefer the stainless one by ARP or just using standard allen heads. Is there a problem with stainless, or even using stainless allen head bolts?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 230
Likes: 1
im a union ironworker & have been in it for over 24 years now..i do alot of Nuclear power plants..car plants..etc etc..maintenance & build..we deal alot with stainless bolts..anyone that has alot of experiance with stainless bolts will tell you that once a stainless bolt has been put in something..it is almost impossible to take back out & re-use again..something to do with the way it acts with environment..when backin it out..feels like the threads have been scarred..especialy when applied to a carbon nut or threaded bore...i would go with a good high tension carbon bolt
"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 4
From: Mifflin, PA
Originally Posted by FordCwazyGuy
im a union ironworker & have been in it for over 24 years now..i do alot of Nuclear power plants..car plants..etc etc..maintenance & build..we deal alot with stainless bolts..anyone that has alot of experiance with stainless bolts will tell you that once a stainless bolt has been put in something..it is almost impossible to take back out & re-use again..something to do with the way it acts with environment..when backin it out..feels like the threads have been scarred..especialy when applied to a carbon nut or threaded bore...i would go with a good high tension carbon bolt
Yes, it's different from regular grey anti-sieze.
New User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Go with a mid grade 5 or so bolt. Its all the strength you will prob need for the headers. Use anti-seize as someone else here mentioned and you can also seal the inner side of the threaded end after installation with a super high temp rtv sealant. This will keep out debris and condensation which doesnt help you later if you are trying to remove the completely rust welded bolt out. Problem with stainless steel is it is too soft. Very pretty to look at but tend to really react poorly to constant expansion and contracting due to the extreme temperatures they are exposed to. Tendency not to shear but to stick and you can actually twist the bolt (looks interesting...lol)when it is stuck tight. If you go with too high a grade like an 8 or higher they tend to become brittle over time and heat and can actually shear during use or when attempting to remove them. Have experieced both but a quick trip to the local engine shop and a few healy coils later all is good...hehe. good luck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,483
Likes: 1
From: Northern California
Originally Posted by imlowr2
I just purchased a set of Sanderson headers. The headers didn't come with bolts because I purchased the set from a friend. Sanderson does not recommend stainless bolts for whatever reason, they say to use grade 8 header bolts. I prefer the stainless one by ARP or just using standard allen heads. Is there a problem with stainless, or even using stainless allen head bolts?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
My system is to use stainless studs. 9They can be had in any hardness found in other bolts.) The problem of galling, as described above is avoided by using brass or bronze nuts and stainless flat washers. Always easy to remove the nuts but you will have to double nut the studs to get them out.
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